1989RS

so everything should work in theory and how much is an average gizzmo chip to get put in

if you got a gizzmo chip on a standard rs (1989) would i be able to run a td05 16g or a 18g and yellow injectors

normally most garages just put 2 liters of coolant in and then add water until the cooling system is full or at least thats how my work shop does it. Your car will be fine by the sounds of it you have kept your cooling system in pretty good condition so you will have no problem

Maybe a loose earth wire have a look

not bad but you should find out with the cambelt if they did all idlers and seals as well. Some dealers just throw on a cambelt to be cheap. Cant really go wrong with a Toyrolla

fully agree with kwi_fozzie. if people neglect sr motors the small oil holes over the top of the cam shafts block up and the cams run dry and it will not run right (i owned a sr18 and had this problem) also they use alot of gas for 1.8 and 2.0l motors

ford telstars and lasers/ mazda 323 and 626s are pretty much the way to go really cheap on gas and on parts. fully rebuilt my telstar for $600 bucks

As the title would suggest does anyone know if these guys are still open and can you go in there on weekends just looking for panels thanks

sorry if anyone misunderstood me but the link as not in the car its a stock ecu but i have one that i can use if need be thats why i asked the question if i can get the ecu chipped or i have to run the link

up in auckland. are the inlets of the turbo interchangeable. would putting a bigger fuel pump be a good idea as well

Just a quick question if i was to put a vf23 onto my pretty much stock bc5 legacy what would i need to do to make it work. I do have a possum link but would i need to use that or could i just get my ecu chipped. And what else would i need to do to make it work

regarding the cv joint you could always remove the drive shaft and try to knock it off on the work bench and if that fails then try and knock off the inner cv and slide to boot and ties on that way. We do that sometimes at work.

what kind of hose should i use for my rocker cover breathers as im replacing all old black hose

Im doing a aplit fuelrailmod and im wanting to get rid of my carbon canister while im there.Ive read a few threads about people just sticking the tank breather hose down the chassis rail but im not to keen to try that as fuel fumes would be venting under the car so is there a safe way of doing this.I was thinking maybe just running the hose straight into the throttle body (pretty much bypassing the carbon canister). WOuld i run into any problems with this setup

ok may have to re think that then but i would still be able to block off the hole going into air intake aye

sorry for bringing the topic up again. But i was wondering if i get a can with 2 inputs would i be able to run both rocker breathers and crank case breather into one side of the can and then have a return of clean air going back into the pcv valve and just block the hole going into the intake pipe and where is the best place to buy hose

my car has semi overheated twice and its still fine (holds pressure, all pressure readings are equal and is not losing water

on if that is the biggest black chip next to the hand controller cable there no numbers just a sticker but on the back it says LINK 1996 SUBARU V3.2

As the title suggests is there any certain way to tell what sort of link you have. Mine has a hand controller and a sticker on it saying GGSPEC 27FEB01 also 4 plug and was in a v4 wrx rally car. can upload photos if needed

and the motor was rebuilt about 10,000km ago but i was told the crank didnt need a regrind because it was in ok condition so trusting the engineer i didnt do it.

would anyone be able to loosen the manifold to see if it made the same noise

yeah but is there anyway of diagnosing a melted piston or damaged piston

ok now i feel like a penis because on closer inspection the left hand exhaust gasket was leaking which could explain the thumping noise

I have pulled my motor out as i thought the car had blown a big end bearing. but now i have pulled it out and pulled the sump of everything looks fine. is there any certain way to tell if its blown i.e. play in the big end or small metal filings or not free turning. I was also told that it may be a melted piston is there any way to check this without taking the heads off. would there be any tell tale signs e.g. grinding noise from bores or hard to turn the motor over any help or advice would be greatly appreciated.

or a small furry animal one of the 2 but yeah im sure i could have a look at your car sometime tomorrow