Simon C

Why swap it for something bigger? I found that the smaller wheel added more steering weight, stronger feedback, more agility. The original steering wheel was like driving a Commodore.

Or if you have a non-airbag model like a Spec C But you also need a letter from Subaru NZ with your chassis code to show the WOF people that your car didn't come factory fitted with airbags. I didn't have any issues with my old car.

Had Syms on the old car, actually noticed that the bottom end off-boost response was a lot better. To call the sound "Honda" is a bit of a disservice. There's no rumble, but they sound, for lack of a better word, "tuned". Great headers, but a real PITA to fit due to the integrated uppipe and high 2-1 join as Funky has alluded to.

I got the best out of the car turning in under hard braking, and the tail helping me around the corner ;D

He's using my old car. Will be keen to know the lap times, as I've never taken it to Hampton before.

If you want better handling, just get some upgraded Whiteline front and rear sway bars. Makes much more difference to your handling than springs, and won't detract from ride comfort.

I bought a Ford Mondeo.

Does anyone know if the BP Legacy came with ISOFIX child seat mounting points?

Did Soichi do your tune? He's one of the best guys out there, although much better known amongst Nissan circles for his work on RB and SR engines. Also, his dyno is known to be lower reading.

Also, unless the headers have been changed to equal length, you'll be able to tell a stock twin scroll vs single scroll by the absence of the boxer rumble.

You can't. You'll have to get them from the US. Either used through the NASIOC forums, or from Turn In Concepts. Most of the bits for my car were sourced off NASIOC, it's a great place to get used stuff, and the NZ dollar is good vs the US at the moment as well.

Like I keep saying. RaceComp Engineering Yellows (RCE). They're specifically made to match the damping rates of the GDB pink shocks, and have the maximal amount of drop without adverse effects on rear suspension geometry or bottoming out the damper travel. Very well known and highly respected in the US. If you just want to drop your car, then any old spring will do, but if you want to drop it AND handle better, get a decent spring from a company that has done plenty of track and road R&D time. RCE also do a line of coilovers which are very similar to what Whiteline used to produce, based on custom spec'd units from KW in Germany. I had KWs in my old car, anyone who has been in my old car can tell you what the ride quality and handling was like.

You'll need a sandwich plate to install the sensors, which goes where your oil filter goes. So good to do an oil change and filter change at the same time. Can't remember what readings I got on mine, but I had the Defi STi gauges. So yeah, you need everything, not just the gauge itself.

Replacing the uppipe with aftermarket will make your lag worse, not better. Larger pipe = slower gas velocity = slower spool. Larger uppipes are only for cars making enough power that the uppipe becomes a restriction at the top end.

Good lowering springs + uprated swaybars gets my vote. Adjustables are a waste of money for street use. Recommend RaceComp Engineering "yellow" springs, which are made to suit the factory dampers. Will not go as low as some, but GD chassis does not like to be lowered much before the suspension geometry gets screwed up. Good thread here: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1383366 http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1408733

Negotiated lease conditions on what will hopefully be my new car once I arrive in Aussie in a couple of weeks. 2010 Ford Focus 2.0L diesel, 6MT dual clutch. 320NM torque and 5.9L/100Km, oh yeah baby

Right, I just sacrificed 15 minutes of my life for you Kevin. Hurry up and make a decision and spend some money, and for God's sake stop with the procrastinating and questions. Here are the Photoshop overlays of the compressor maps that I used to decide on the turbo for my own car. The red lines are calculated for my V7 STi engine, which has equal length 4-2-1 headers similar to factory twin scroll. Of course, these are only estimates, but it's a very useful tool nonetheless. To my knowledge, there are no VF36 maps around on the internet, although Vorigan may know of some. All flows on the horizontal axis are in cubic feet per minute. Broadly speaking, more air flow = burn more petrol per minute = more power. VF22 M7760 TD06 20G GT3071 (like Funky's) The VF36 will definitely get on boost faster than a VF22, but because it's a similar size it won't outflow one. At 1.5bar (pressure ratio 2.5), the VF22 will be out of puff by 6000RPM. The TD06 20G and M7760 will produce flow all the way to redline, but you can see that the M7760 will spool a little bit faster.

Pretty certain that the M7760 is the only EJ20/25 model they do. My understanding is that it's a modified Mitsubishi TD05 20G.

Endless MX-72 here.

I looked into it for my car, decided it was way too much hassle.

V10 STi had the software for the differentials recalibrated over the V9. Default F:R torque split is 40:60 on the V10, there was greater rear bias on the V9. Also, V10 debuts the rear roof spoiler.

Yeah, I got quite a bit more tramlining with RE070s. It's normal for that sort of tire. They're also pricey, really noisy, and wear quickly. But dry grip, turn-in and steering feel are just soooo much better.

Those ARMS turbos are great. But the 450ps they quote is for a EJ25 running Spec C heads, Tomei headers, poncams, exhaust. It's on their website.

GD wagon boot is narrower than the sedan. So actually, I can fit my bicycle in the boot of my sedan, but not in the wagon!

How'd he fix the squeaky seatbelt?