Simon C

I just left mine plugged in, but not plumbed to any of the vacuum lines. Car works just fine. But you'll still need some kind of boost controller unless you want to just run wastegate pressure.

I've only got the axle back portion. The diameter of the exhaust varies along its length from memory, although the dominant diameter is 2.75". It also has weird venturi vanes inside the pipework, supposedly to promote flow velocity. Quality is really good, but it sure is heavy. It looks nice though, more subtle than a cannon tip muffler even though it's still a big bore tip.

I run a daily driver (1990 Fiat Uno 1.4L). It saves me $50 in petrol a week, vs using the STi.

Still available. Best as a Maori plate.

I found that the Zerosports suspension was plenty stiff enough. On the track, just turn the dampers up to maximum. The car is roll free, and steers neutral with a tendency to oversteer. I didn't see the need to upgrade the swaybars. Other things that made a huge difference on my V7: Antilift kit (no more front end lifting under hard acceletation) Intercept type EBC (reduced spool by ~400 RPM, could hold 1.6bar to redline instead of dropping to 1.0bar) Bridgestone RE070 tires (much better turn in, steering feel, grip, but noise and ride quality suffered) The Walbro is a good idea, and you're lucky that your factory ECU is reflashable. I'd say you're looking at >230kw after a good tune, with a nice spread of torque and good handling. It'd be great as a daily. If you go much further, you risk stepping over that line and making compromises in your DD for the sake of speed on the track.

Brembos are a pain to get wheels for. That's the price you pay for a kickass set of factory brakes.

They're my coilovers he's picking up.

Gary did a fine job on mine, was easy to deal with and gave advice freely and readily. Car drives great. Most tuners will give you before-and-after dyno plots.

I have a full 3" exhaust on my V7 from turbo back, although the muffler itself is 2.75". I needed three resonators to keep the car from being droney and loud. 2.5" is quieter and has a nicer note, but 3" to future-proof yourself if you plan on powering the car up.

You mean you want your engine serviced? An oil change, oil filter, upper engine cleaner, AFM cleaner and a fresh air filter won't cost you much, and can be done by even a noob mechanic at home in an hour or two.

Imprezas are never pretty, although this one presses my buttons (but then, so does the bugeye). Truth be told, I stopped caring about Subaru's exterior and interior aesthetics a long time ago, as a coping mechanism. What matters a lot more to me are the incremental improvements to the EJ20 (since they've renewed it for another generation), and the engineering improvements to the chassis and drivetrain. That's where the true heart of the Impreza lies and always has done.

Need to get some heatwrap onto those.

Have driven Evo IV, Evo VIII, GTR33, S15, 350Z, Altezza, DC2, DC5, and I'd have my GDB any day of the week.

Some people theorise that the heat involved in curing the powdercoat approaches the temperatures used for some forged rim manufacture, and that powdercoating forged rims will therefore affect the metallurgy.

Using Castrol Edge 5w30 on a 120,000km GDB, no issues here.

Apexi ones aren't oiled. They're a dry type filter, chuck it in the bin once it's done and put in a new one. Some magazine ran a filtration and flow rate test on a whole bunch of pod filters, Apexi came tops for both, worst filtration were the HKS mushroom foam filters and Blitz steel mesh filters from memory.

I thought there was an uppipe cat converter in my GDB, but it turned out not to be the case. I think uppipe cats are on the USDM cars for emissions purposes. Certainly a retarded place to put it, as the cat converter guts disintegrate with time and then munch your turbo.

Just reviewed the workshop manual and it looks like it'd be a bit of a pain, I think I'll just pay someone else to do it this time.

Was changing the brake pads yesterday, noticed that there were flecks of grease centrifuged all throughout the left front wheelarch. I'm pretty sure that the CV boot is leaking, but it's not obviously split. How easy is it for me to sort this out in the confines of my garage, or is it a sticky hard job that I should leave for a workshop?

Upgraded the brake pads, and fitted Kartboy extended polyurethane exhaust hangers to stop my exhaust from clanging against the rear diff.

Other ways to lose weight. Intestinal parasites. Cancer. Limb amputations. Waking up in a bathtub full of ice, minus your kidneys.

Trying to decide if OP is a robot or just a troll.

Let me get this straight. You need to live off charity from family just to keep the car on the road. And yet you think it's a good idea to pay for car mods by borrowing more money? The problems with your car go far beyond your unrealistic expectations about people lending you wheels, having a fuel economical forged boosted track car daily driver, or any of the other stuff you post. You are going to end up broke, in debt, and eventually a bankrupt. Good luck living in the real world with that smeared all over your name. You need to wake up from your fantasy world and get some common sense about money, before the real world catches up with you and kicks your ass hard. Daddy and sister won't keep bailing you out forever. I out earn you by an order of magnitude or more, and I don't spend the sort of money you're talking about on my car!

I did my first track day on a set of second hand RE070s I got off TradeMe. Got a track day and 10,000kms out of them, not bad value for $500! Of course, replacing them with new RE070s hurt like hell, even on my budget.

I'm running a stock V7 STi TMIC on mine, 251kw on 1.6bar boost. Gary Capper told me that my intake temperatures are starting to climb, and that I should go FMIC as a support mod if I take my engine any further. Of course, I also have the big 12L intercooler spray tank in the boot, so probably not such a big issue for short to medium drives.