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crazymf

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Everything posted by crazymf

  1. Do you still have your old engine kicking around? Wanna part with it for a reasonable price??
  2. What year, type of heads? Might not be a noise coming from your head, could be a piston noise...
  3. I once was on the look out for some manual window regulators for my Type R so I could eliminate all the wiring. Wingers quoted me about $300 per side. But then I thought there must be an easier way. So I bought a couple of manual regs out of an early model legacy for $30 each. And sure enough, the regulators were exactly the same. The only difference was the length of the channel that bolts to the window and the other one that bolts to the door. Both of which are very easy to swap over. All I had to do was drill a hole in the door to stick the winder spline through and viola, done...
  4. I had my version 3 coupe doing a 12.8. Was only making 155kw atw, with all the interior stripped out, 13.3 with interior in. Launching about 5500rpm with DCCD in lock position. Hooked up pretty good with no wheel spin on a prepped track and a sunny day.
  5. Yip, certainly sounds like the nut on the end of the input shaft has come loose. And if its popping out of gear when on decel, it'll be the gear moving backwards thats doing it. So depending on how long its been going for there might'n be any damage except a loose nut. But make sure you check the fork cos it may be ground away and may need replacing too.
  6. It opens up a flap in the exhaust pipe before the rear muffler to allow greater exhaust gas flow under full throttle
  7. Are the cv's stuck inside the hubs or are you having trouble getting it off the gearbox end? If they are stuck inside the hubs (depending on how badly, and your assortment of tools) you can normally free them up. Take the nut off, spray some crc in there, whack the end of the cv with a copper hammer as hard as possible. Stick the nut back on and do up as tight as possible and repeat procedure until it comes out. If it will not move at all then its time to replace hub etc
  8. I have everything you want to do the conversion. V8 manifold, intercooler, brackets, master cylinder etc. pm me for more info
  9. Sounds like you may have a major air leak or an air flow meter problem of some sort. Have you checked every join an plug to make sure its all connected properly?
  10. Its located in the cross pipe thats under the inlet manifold, can be accessed by removing the alternator. It'll have a 3 wire plug going to it. Yes a faulty temp sensor can cause hard starting when cold. It tells the ecu how cold the engine is and will richen up on cold starting. If its not getting the right signal it'll revert back to the normal hot running fuel curve, which is quite a bit leaner, hence why its hard to start when cold...
  11. Could be a faulty temp sensor. This would cause hard starting when cold and would have no affect on performance once the car has warmed up...
  12. What kind of spark plugs were fitted? Whats the part number, PFR6B?
  13. Insufficient oil flow would cause a turbo too seize, not slow down
  14. Yes true, and its not hard to rewire the v3 manifold with the v2 engine wiring. Just a little time and patients *fixed quote bubble*
  15. Well just to clear things up, and it does seem that you guys have your wires crossed. But we actually have another exact same car thats unmodified and working as subaru intended it too. We have mapped exactly what everything is doing, when boost/vacuum is being sent to various actuators etc. And guess what, the working car is boosting 15psi on the primary. So before you go strangling me with the no8 wire i suggest you go and do some homework 1st. Remember this is a 2002 tt legacy, they differ slightly from the earlier ones. The early ones boosted around 10psi on the primary and around 15psi on the secondary. If you knew how much time we have spent on this trying to figure it out then you might have a better understanding. And the fact that its my bosses car must also have some credit. So we still have the problem of only 5psi of boost on the secondary. Forget about the primary, I'm happy with that, as its working like all the other cars we've compared it too of that model year.
  16. Just an update - we have attained normal primary boost levels now by re-hosing the main BOV. Feeding it more boost to help keep it closed. Now getting 12-15psi. Problem is we are only getting 5psi of secondary boost. We have another exact same car and that has 10psi of secondary boost. Now just gotta figure out how to achieve that...
  17. Yes a version 4 motor will fit in very nicely. You can reuse your existing version 2 inlet manifold. No mods will be required to get it all running. If you want to put a version 5 motor in there, you'll have to change the wiring to suit as your v2 manifold will not bolt onto a v5 motor.
  18. crazymf

    Oil leak

    Judging by what you've said, it doesn't sound like cam seals. It sounds like lack of sealer used before putting the rocker covers back on. Did you use any silicon sealer? Where the front cam bearing caps meet the head you have to apply sealer there or else the gasket wont seal. 27mm
  19. Why would you need to drain the oil if your doing rocker covers?
  20. +1 def! Think it might have been more then just headgaskets for that price, as its 1850 + gst for a headgasket job, and that includes all the gaskets and seals, machining both heads and blocks, grinding all the valves. And i bet if you'd taken it wingers you'd be paying twice as much...
  21. It'll be a damaged piston. Has probably had some sort of detonation which has damaged the skirt of the piston. My legacy had the exact same problem, only knocking on acceleration and idle, not on decel. Pulled it apart and found the piston skirt and piston crown to show signs of detonation.
  22. The fronts will bolt straight on, providing you have the disc's that come with the front brembo calipers 28mmx330mm (28mm is the minimum thickness). As for the rears, i'll have to do some measurements on mine and get back to ya. What kind of rear brake setup do you have? Or whats the chassis number, i can run it through the system and that'll tell me exactly what rear setup you have. R180 etc
  23. I think you might have trouble with the disc rotor size. With factory 2 pot rears the disc size is smaller then the brembo setup. At least that was the case on my sti coupe. If thats the case you'll need the backing plates aswell to accept the larger disc's for the brembo's
  24. All mechanical components have been checked and all are working, all vacuum hoses have been checked and none of them have leaks and all go to where they should.
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