viperguy

haha, ive got a 90x4 rms alpine amp and that is powering the tweets and mids directly, just need to lower the tweets level in the headunit a couple of notches as theyre a bit bright otherwise. Yes with more power at hand if you crank the system to ear bleeding levels theres a better chance you could blow speakers, but whats worse for speakers is clipping the amplifier output at high volumes and pumping DC into them, which there is more of a chance to do with a lower rated amp...but frankly in the real world it really doesnt matter too much, you'd be deaf first

better than most im sure, but not as good as none

that amp might be a bit light to properly power those speakers...i can highly recommend powering the tweets and mids seperately off the amp (so using all four channels for just the fronts) and using the network mode (which gives you a sub/mid crossover and a mid/high crossover) if the headunit has it, it really cleans the speakers up getting rid of those dirty passive crossovers its not all bad having the holes in the parcel tray...it'll let the sub air movement into the cabin so you can hear the sound not just feel the vibrations

frankly on the mods path, i find handling mods put the biggest smile on my face lower it a tiny bit, uprate the swaybars and end-links, put an antilift kit on and be amazed how much faster you can get around without any extra power

dont get tein s-techs...the 's' literally stands for stylish-spec...they handle like pillows

pre-megameet task # xxx tighten wheel nuts so right front brake doesnt rub in corners...

...it begins... but i can vouch for RE001's, quiet on the road, at least as grippy as Toyo T1R's (cant vouch for wet performance yet), mileage?...TBD theyre ripping you off if you cant get a set for $800 or less

i wondered why vtec was showing up everywhere ;D

its good stuff i have to admit, for $60 you would hope so

smoke might just be coolant in the up-pipe from the turbo swap, i remember getting coolant in my up-pipe when i did my turbo swap and i made a thick foggy smokescreen down an entire street until it had all boiled off, so see how she runs with the proper afm... also i found my VF turbo made that sexy spinning down noise that the TD turbo didnt (i went td04 to vf23) so possibly nothing to worry about there fingers crossed or my ones poked as well but has been going just dandy for the past 40K's

washed and waxed and had to buy a clay bar for the roof crud :

i think its pretty distinctive, youll notice one of those coming up in your rear view mirror for sure, im not against it

...sigh...they only had one of the non-adjustable 22mm one in stock, bit of a mixup with letters it would seem

makes pretty good sense, no harm in having any lurkers reminded that its alarmed as well

yep front, i already have the 22mm adjustable rear on the hardest setting, so its going to be an experiment really to see if it helps the overall handling, ive done enough reading (and my personal experience, i have the 22mm rear bar on the hardest setting) to figure out that just doing the rear does help a lot with the balance on a stock(ish) setup, but as regards to improving overall grip levels i couldnt really say, but i feel that doing the front should also have tangible benefits in helping prevent understeer for the obvious reasons of helping the front wheels stay flat on the ground

SAS in the hutt (petone?) just have a new shipment of these in, charging me $250+gst if anyone is interested in getting hold of one

mine does it during the night, so methinks its not temp

i have the same issue, i presume its just some uber-sensitive shock sensitivity...i just explain to anyone within earshot that my car is demanding to go for a drive

i just threw some re001s on in the weekend...seem comparable to the toyo t1r's i had on previously...the re001s feel a bit grippier if i had to make a call on it (on a little test drive over the paekakariki hill) and quieter as well, got mine for $192 a corner fitted and balanced from good old tonys tyre service

hmmm, you wouldnt happen to have an ini file for a 1997 sti? i successfully got the ecu id but it doesnt seem to be too happy playing with the supposed match in the standard ini file, some readings are garbage while others alternate between something sensible and zero... this is all using the evoscan ssm cable, the evoscan software works very well by the way i performed a scan with the ssm dump program, but wouldnt have an idea how to quickly figure out which address corresponds to which sensor apart from the obvious method of disconnecting the sensor itself and narrowing it down via trial and error :'(

ooh, they turned up today...bring on the weekend

price i was given over the phone from znoelli was $96 less 15%, i presume theres a little shipping on top as well, will see when i get invoiced...

my 97 GF8 with sti ecu +vf23 = 10L/100k around town....open road 9L/100 (light-foot cruising)....on the track 24.5L/100k

yep, i called the fullas up to order a set, club subbers get 15% off, cant complain about that

ditto, no noises here...did notice some initial NVH over stock straight after fitting but for the benefits of the upgrade its all pluses in my book