Flippymoi

I wouldn't be putting my alloy wheels in an oven! Brittle enough as is. 2k all the way! I used a standard acrylic single pot on my last set and it was good. few chips when taking wheel bolts in and out but not noticeable Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk

This is great. have been wondering what is involved with this for a while. Cheers! Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk

Don't use a hose that you have used an automatic oiler on either

You will need at last 2.5HP compressor. buy the gun first and get a compressor that will cover the free air delivery requirement. if you are going for a good finish you will want to spend about 200 on gun and 300 on compressor. Don't forget to use an air dryer/water trap Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk

Big sway bars will technically make you corner flat. But yea, stiffer springs and better driving technique probably the easiest/cheapest Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk

I had a guard roller and used it on a e36 BMW I had way back. It will only bend the lip back which will only give you 5mm extra width under the guard. also cracks the paint normally. It will not flare the guard. You will have to go to a panel beater for that. Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk

Yes, the clutch needs to be depressed to start, but this was not the problem as the interior lights, clock, everything was dead as well. I have also been having the electrics cut out while driving, although the engine keeps running. I am getting 14volts from the alternator. Shouldn't all the power required to run the electronics in the car come from the alternator while the engine is on? What I mean is, once the car is started, you could remove the battery and the radio etc should still run? or is this not the case? [quote name='rex-leggy said: no thats the way it should be as the whole body should be a "negitive" . whats important is the resistance of the earths are . Rex-leggy, what should I be checking with the resistance of the earths? I have a multimeter but my skills extend to getting volt readings and that is about it. Cheers

Everything died. Interior lights went, and clock etc all reset. I checked the battery earth cable to the chassis and everywhere on the chassis is getting 12V at the moment. What do you make of the power cutting out when the brake pedal is touched sometimes? What else should I check for a bad earth?

I have pink ones on my BH5 if that helps :-\

So I go to my car after work last night, disarm the immobilizer and go to start the car. Sometime between pressing my foot down on the clutch and trying to start the car, the car looses electrical power completely and the battery back-up siren starts to go. I open the bonnet, both battery terminals are tight and everything looks all good. I get back into the car and somehow the power is back on, so I start her up and drive home. On the way home, there were a few times where the revs dropped quite low, almost to a stall. Today I am off driving to get a hair cut (not that you needed to know that) and on the way back my radio cuts out each time I press the brake pedal. Then about half way home the problem stopped and everything seems all good again. Wtf is going on? Mechanical problems I can get my head around but electrical ones do my head in. If someone could help me here I would be so grateful! The only changes I have done recently was remove and replace the ground cable on the battery to do some work.

The compression ratio is only a ratio of the change of volume the gas inside the cylinder as the piston goes through a cycle. when the car is on boost you cannot compare this ratio with another engine like a 4age. As the true pressure of the gas in the cylinder is higher. They only increased the compression to give better drivability off boost. Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk

I like kicker. If you can find some earthquake 6x9s they are pretty sweet or used to be anyway. They generally have a range though from poxy 6x9s to grunty as ones, just match your speaker to your amp. Soundstream subs are good. Pioneers higher end DVC subs are pretty good value for money too.

I bought an autogauge and had to replace it with something decent. The thing read about 30% out and was very slow to respond. I bought an Autometer gauge from the US. Just opening the package and looking at the parts the difference is so obvious. The vac line is a hard very thin pipe that you can hide anywhere, it also will not kink. The tee piece is high quality and comes with a silicone seal for the vac line. Expensive at about $200 each but worth it in my opinion. The sport comp 2 matches the GTB dash reasonably well.

No one ever talks about the gauges though. Some poor quality gauges like autogauge will not read properly and cheap electronic gauges have a delay and can miss the boost peak all together. So first thing, by a good gauge (I prefer Autometer) apexi, hks, defi etc all good. Second thing make sure you hook into a line that is close to your manifold and is large enough to carry the full pressure. As for boost my BH5 stock gets 14-15psi on primary and 16-17psi peak in parallel. Differs slightly in each gear. Diff back exhaust.

I dont think automatics have oil coolers standard?

Ok thanks all. I was going to have the wire pop out beside the A/C vent and I can install the amp without removing the seat by putting it right forward but I guess I will either remove the seat and check or just let the amp float around in there without fastening it down - velcro maybe. Getting lazy in my old age. Cheers!

I am installing an amp under the passenger seat (small amp) and I am really lazy so don't want to pull the seat out and check under the carpet before drilling a hole in the floor pan. I am kinda hoping someone has already seen under there before and thus save myself some time... Anything there? I learn't my lesson last time when I installed a fire extinguisher without looking and had to repair a coaxial cable I put the screw right through the middle of.

All fuels have detergents added. you would probably find a well tuned engine running on bp ultimate would have clean valves and pistons. Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk

^^ I'd agree with that now you mention it. My boss has a 2.5 legacy and he has had two blown/leaking head gaskets in the last 6 months. Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk

My apologies. Just my experience mechanics keep records but looking back at them when the time comes is another story. The last one was an austrian tank mechanic called manfred so maybe I just need to be more selective! Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk

Like people are asking...where is the leak from? there are heaps of other places for coolant to leak from apart from the water pump. Did they replace the thermostat? a good mechanic should have. Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk

I wouldn't necessarily blame the mechanic. Almost everyone has the cambelt done at 100k intervals. if you couldn't remember that the belt was done then not surprising that he didn't and I doubt mechanics are the best record keepers. Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk

Which Supercheap? I haven't seen it at the Mt Welly store. Not on their website either.

I have been using MT90 in a BH5D TT for about 6 months. I have not noticed any difference in the drivability or gear changes. Perhaps the oil already in there was good to start with. MT90 is a GL4 oil though and subaru spec a GL5, but MT90 is widely reccommended in the forums so I don't know what the deal is there.

5w-30 will give you better cold performance than the 10w-30. I have been using 5w-30 edge for the last two oil changes and it has been a good oil. I am going to go one thicker though next time. A petrolhead at work just sent me an email summary of all his hard research into oils. Appears Mobile 1 is not to gold standard people think it is. Best oil that is widely available appears to be Valvoline Synpower 0w-40 - Which is normally around $60 for 5L. Royal Purple is probably the best oil you can find in the viscosity subarus require but it is hard to get hold of in NZ.