subieboy

That too TBH Couldn't resist a bit of humour in good spirit(or should that be spirits) ;D

Aah no... Just giving a literary lesson on the meaning of the words

Wastegate - Waste + Gate... This vents Boost controller - Boost + Controller... This controls ;D

Check out this bad boy - My local toolshop had a special on. T'was $368 and included a argon Regulator and some stuff for nix... Tis is the badboy Reg: Check out Trade Tools Direct (In aussie). So now combined with my panel kit (hammers & Dollies) it'll be time to start making some of that stuff I have dreamt up such as airboxes, catchcans and the like...

Yes However, this world is filled with MUPPETS that dont know that and would rather use a screwdriver on the lock or smash the window... The mod is to deter would be muppets (not pro's)

In saying what I had said regarding vibration, I suppose you could probably get around the vibration if you supported the pod enough...

That depends on what model of car you have. In saying that eventually the pod filter poor filtration (with poorer than factory anyway) will kill your AFM. Coupled with an oiled model pod, the oil comes through and sits on the hotwire types and damages them. The biggest killer of AFM's with pod filter are the vibrations, especially with the later model Leggies or Impreza's...

Aah sweet. Were you the one that perchance posted something about it in the pre-meltdown forum?

1) yep the assembly was taken out 2) Its kind of an adaptor plate - basically it moves the bolt/screw hole away from being blocked - once again the mechanism was taken out/partially removed (??Is that the right phrase??) to add the adaptor plate. Think of a strip of steel with two holes in it, one at one end attached to the door lock and another hole at the other end attached to another strip of steel thats mounted to a solid piece of steel (part of the window mechanism's unmoveable bracing from memory)... This is a good 5 or 6 years ago now tho so have a good look around for suitable mounting point.

wouldn't that be called xXx-Tuned? lol!! funny guy Glen! ROFL ;D

Gaaah not again! Search is your friend...

The lights or the R8? Seen them around a lot lately - seems every Bronco and his knobs got one here

Well simple really you went to VTNZ... Just go to another WOF testing station and present the test cert you have and should have no issues - this is the simplest and cheapest method. Then go to the WOF website and register a complaint with the LTNZ (or whatever they are called again) over the muppetness and unfair treatment by this WOF tester (include the testers ID) Bingo

Man thats one huge Mother*BLEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEP* bugger, that side on front profile, still it does look interesting: wondering what it looks like in real life... Granted that arse is serious fuglyness tho

Yep it makes for much less damage that would need repairing (no screwdriver in door lock panel twist). I have often wondered if this could also be done on BH/BE

Hahaha nah had the link saved from a previous hunt for stuff in a time when I was still doing Holden's

Fuel ignition? Anyway, assuming you are talking about removing your points and replacing with and electronic setup... I did this with a corolla using a dick smith kit... worked perfectly for years without trouble... probably look to jaycar these days though. Many Kits Mr Joker sir: http://www.autospeed.com.au/cms/A_0828/article.html This is the smart newer version of the above: http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=KC5442&form=KEYWORD&ProdCodeOnly=yes&Keyword1=KC&Keyword2=KC Some reading material for ya: ;D http://www.autospeed.com.au/cms/search/index.html?keywords=ignition+module&x=16&y=7

I have seen two methods: 1) change the screw for a flat/ground down nut 2) plate was made up, screwed into the blocked one, and new mount made, I think it was one plate attached to handle and one to mounting point, then they were screwed together...

My thinking on this subject so far: You could be sneaky and get a LED light strip from Jaycar and fit it under the headlight (some clever chopping of the bumper just below the headlight at the top of the bumper and using rubber strip/gusset or black edge trim could make it look good), and then soldering the wiring into the park light wiring should work Pic of the R8 to show what I mean (sort of):

Yes mate... thanks for that... it's already my second AFM no the car... :-[ Winger Subaru Greenlane told me it's the K&N oil based airfilter broke the first one... so I'm now using factory air intake box with a Apexi panel filter. /quote] Yep, its a combination of the oil and vibration that kills them off. I think somewhere on here there is a thread that links to a test that was done by Autospeed (I think) on the effectiveness of filters (incl. factory, aftermarket et al) It found factory paper filters to be best... The Sequential controller does wonders for the VOD... Factory paper filters? That will be nice consider they are less than $30! ;-) I have ordered a sequential controller and bought a AVC-R from trademe... hopefully they would make thing a bit different. Main article to read: http://www.autospeed.com/cms/A_2232/article.html Several articles from Autospeed - Not gospel but good for info. http://www.autospeed.com/cms/search/index.html?keywords=filter&x=0&y=0 http://www.autospeed.com/cms/A_1361/article.html As an aside here is a interesting article, if for the only real fact/test they do for what actually matters is the filtration comparison to open your eyes to how much cr@p a poddy lets in. Interesting article below, the thing to note is that they actually tested to see what the filters let through, (but take the article with a grain of salt, also the test was done using a household vacuum... I could not see a comparison to factory filter tho): http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/filters_test/2/index.html Forgot to mention, I have yet to see another article/test/story like the first one where they scientifically test the flow of all the filters to show the actual flow (via pressure or inches of water) for real world results vs factory paper filters...

Prior to the BH & BE that's where it used to hide, they then changed the design due to things like weight distribution, reducing equipment in the engine bay, making servicing faster (apparently so, probably was cheaper to fit it into there as well with the pump & less sheet metal used for brackets...) All those above reasons I gleaned from before the forum implosion of 09...

I was wondering where that happened - had visions of some bad things happening... :'(

I went looking for something to acquire it with but owner wasn't willing, and wife said NO... Its funny the van was in a poos state, but the chrome bits were soooo shiny, sooo very shiny my precious, my precious... ;D

Yes mate... thanks for that... it's already my second AFM no the car... :-[ Winger Subaru Greenlane told me it's the K&N oil based airfilter broke the first one... so I'm now using factory air intake box with a Apexi panel filter. Yep, its a combination of the oil and vibration that kills them off. I think somewhere on here there is a thread that links to a test that was done by Autospeed (I think) on the effectiveness of filters (incl. factory, aftermarket et al) It found factory paper filters to be best... The Sequential controller does wonders for the VOD...

You are right on the money with the filter being inside the steel holder, the BH and BE are the same for the filters. It changed to there from previous models.