nztintin

Manfeild full track - 2:08 - flatnats 2015 - V2 RA track car, timed off video footage.

Might get a different turbo down the line but for now just want bigger injectors as the yellows are at 95% duty cycle so theres no room to move.

I'm thinking of upgrading the injectors in my race car, Currently running ver3 yellows so from what i've seen they cant be decapped, what are my options? anyone else done this?

From my experience on a 2.5" exhaust and running a g4 and running a straight rear section it doesn't effect the boost much, my car has a very low boost cut threshold over the boost set point and I didn't get any extra issues running the straight rear section, I get more issues running the car on a real cold day.

Yeah tried pbms, they said they could possibly make something if i took the part in, they dont have anything in stock. From what I've read some cars had them solid mounted from factory, and most people dont replace them so not a common part. Looks like i mig have to just pull the bushes out and get someone local to machine up a set of solid bushes.

my symptoms where I was pulling myself around under the car on a creeper and grabbed the prop shaft mount and it moved!

So I accidentally found out the bushings in my prop shaft mount are screwed, I can move them easily by hand, I suspect this has been the banging noise I get on rough downshifts. Anyone know of any solid mount bushes apart from these ones? http://www.rallysportdirect.com/Beatrush-S76010PMB-Propeller-Shaft-Mount-Bushings, they're not in stock till sept! cheers

Anyone have/know where I can get a 3" 90˚ exhaust bend in Hamilton tomorrow? I've got a 60˚ and when I found it wasn't enough all the exhaust places were closed.

jase/fastfour runs Koya wheels on his car, 18x10" IIRC, they come in as blanks and they can drill/machine to any PCD and offset. http://www.koyawheels.co.nz/

Yeah those mounts, have to say considering theres no interior in the car the noise isnt too bad. then again i dont drive long distances and I'm normally wearing a helmet!

never had it on a balancing rig afaik, may have been looked at during 1 of my rebuilds. the cars got pretty much solid engine mounts and never had any vibrations, and the cars been up to redline pretty much every time it's used.

I run a d1 lightened flywheel in my race car, Haven't had any issues with it, checked it a couple of times last year when i had the gearbox out, still looks mint. I can't fault it.

Possum Bourne motorsport, http://www.possumbourne.co.nz/Engine-and-Parts.html $300 or $275 depending on the style of sump.

Also new PB for hampton downs - 01:14.702 nz Superlap 03/05/15 http://www.mylaps.com/en/classification/3457659

I have that same brace on my race car, granted I don't run the factory under tray so don't have that issue, but I found I just jack the car up with where the brace bolts onto the jack plate. I found the quality of the brace is pretty good and don't remember having an issue fitting it, it was a few years ago now tho.

Nah custom mount for the trailing arms to get the geometry back in line. somehow I dont think Matt will be getting custom **** made tho.

Im keen on one, are you gonna do a run soon Ray?

from what I read when I was researching making my Foz handle better, foresters don't like being lifted, the rear trailing arm angle pulls the wheels forward and alters toe. I seem to remember one car a guy has raised for offroading being too dangerous to drive on the open road, in his words. He may have raised more like 3", i think he had to cut guards too to because he fitted bigger tyres.... have you had a look on ozfoz etc? i would have a look but I cant remember my login. king springs also do a raised spring, just need to replace the rear shock to accommodate....

Well the car wouldnt start this morn, cranked too slow and drained the battery I swapped the battery out of the race car and its still slow, It started at least but it still sounds real slow now. The race car battery is an Odyssey PC925MJT 330CCA, it starts the race car fine, even if i crank it for ages to get oil pressure etc and the race car was used on sunday so battery should be fully charged, voltages were 13.9v car running, 12.8v car off, 11.5v when cranking. I'm starting to wonder if the starter motor is dying, not spinning fast enough/drawing too much current from the battery. how easy are the starter motors to overhaul brushes etc?

What do the "battery experts" do to test the battery? any more than checking voltage on cranking?

They're not sure what happened to Dan's car, the turbo beanie was the main fire when they stopped, it dumped a whole heap of oil from turn 1 to 4 so i think it probably split an oil line\fitting on the turbo and soaked the turbo beanie!

fuel pump was brand new walbro, maybe 20,000kms ago (from prowholesale so not a knockoff) No cel light I'll pull the cam and crank sensors tomorrow night hopefully, car runs fine as soon as it fires tho....

Hey My forester (98 stb, 230,000kms) is taking a lot longer than normal to fire and on cold mornings its taking a couple of attempts to get it to fire. It's cranking fast enough from the sounds, just doesnt fire. I checked the battery voltage and it drops to about 10v on cranking. The plugs aren't that old, the cars had an afm, coolant temp sensor, fuel pump and a couple other things in the past 20,000kms to try fix a different issue it had. The battery is pretty old (came in the race car when i bought it 4 years ago, unknown age) but 10v doesnt seem to bad according to the all knowing google. any suggestions out there what it could be?

sounds good, DON'T OVER-TIGHTEN THE BOLTS!!!!! I did this and cracked the rear diff housing. also i just fill my diffs till the oil tries to overflow out the top hole. oh and put the car on jack stands, don't rely on a jack.

was also up at leadfoot festival. Its just a small legacy......