THUNDA

no air leaks that i can see, (sooo many vacuum lines on the twin turbo setup) i think its missing something thought, the round box thingy that i think re-ventalates the air from exhaust? it usually sits next to the abs system on the right and have vacuum lines going to it my lines have just been joined together, have tried un plugging them and blocking each one, doesnt make even the slightest difference will check codes shortly, what colour are the diagnostic plugs on this model? idle controll valve was not dirty at all, was replaced with another one on one of my old subies but turned out it wasnt the fault.

just because i had a good one in my toolbox from one of my last legacys, bad idle = instantly i thought of idle control valve

have changed idle controll valve could it be air flow meter problem? what other things make these cars idle funny? it jumps between 1500-2000 then check engine light comes on and it drops to 800-1300 and keeps bouncing car drives mint except for this cheers

compressor serge much?

there are two types on front bumpers on these cars, the older and the newer, anyone know if they are able to be swapped easily? have a 1995 rs legacy sedan lined up but its got the ghey bumper and was wondering if it would be difficult to swap to the newer model one ghey bumper meaner bumper

It was fine i.e it didnt cause any problems, car didnt run hotter or slower, infact it felt slightly more responsive at night time, but who knows maybe it didnt, but im sure you'd know as i said im all for the water-air intercoolers - i.m.o the car was designed to use it from the manufaturer, so its very like to be the best option for the original poster.

mine was fine when i had a ver2 topmount on my bc5, i just removed the air syphon that directs the air into the turbo heat shield, but yeah obviously bigger scoop = more air

water to air is better, fmic sucks because piping is too long it creates lag, if you wanna change to air to air get a wrx sti topmount, nuff said

i re-gapped them to 0.8mm, and guessss whattt? it runs mint again! ^_^ YAY im glad its running sweet again but i feel like a bit of a retard having overlooked something so simple meh, car not giving any codes now which is mint. yayayay

o yup, i might whip the desk lamp out and extension cord and work on the sub tonight my auction just closed on trademe @ 1800$ but have about 3people comming around tomorrow arvo with 2800 - 3200$ offers so it should sell it i suss this problem, otherwise i think i just keep it for a few more months, i know im just gonna miss driving it and buy another one in a couple months anyway lol

maybe i have missed what someone has said ? i have followed what people have said clearly today i replace the whole ICV unit (not just the bit the plug plugs into (abc thingy) now ICV code doesnt come up every now and then i get an o2 sensor code, so i took the o2 sensor out and gave it a clean with a wire brush, it hasnt sprung a code again yet so now im getting no codes, just missing under boost ive replaced 2 coil packs, 2 are still factory, but i just realised==== i didnt gap the new spark plugs when i put them in omg im a turd nugget lol whats the recommended gap for bc5 rs legacy? ill look it up on the net now but if anyone knows it off hand post it uppp

i gathered that yeah ive already replaced it but its still missing when boost comes on

btw put new platnum plugs in and replaced a dud coil pack could this just been a coil pack problem? i/e; another failing coil pack? the tricky thing is the car runs fine on idle and while driving, so checking coilpacks it difficult, it only misses when boost reaches about 5psi arggggg it has also read an o2 sensor code once but i removed it and cleaned it with a wire brush and now it doesnt bring that code up have also now replace idle controll valve but hasnt made a difference

can find vague things about it but nothing specific to my car, could you just explain it please? i found there is 2plugs on the left hand side of the gearbox, what do i do with these plugs though? cjheerrs

also, how would a nuetral switch cause missfire? it says mine is constantly on, meaning the clutch is always depressed as my car starts without depressing the clutch. it has always been like this since ive owned the car and its only just recently started missing when on boost.

i.e is it the unit that would be in the red circle or the blue circle? (i realise this pic doesnt have either sensor)

is idle speed controller the same as idle control valve?

i got codes #51 and #24 #51 = neutral switch (not worried about this) #24 = Air control valve or circuit - wtf is an air control valve? do they mean throttle body? i just wanna get this sussed as my trademe auction finishes on thursday and i need it working mint! its doing a weird missing thing when boost comes on, i thought it was coil packs, one was failing so i replaced it and it worked sweet for a few days but now the same thing is happening

i do have the diagnostic plugs plugged in lol, green ones right?

Hey all Finally got around to checking my check engine light when starting the car is flashes check engine 5times quickly, indicating #5 fault code then there is a pause, then it just repeats I cannot find the fault code on the fault code chart as it just starts with #11 also another fault code im getting after driving around for awhile is #51 this indicates "Neutral switch (manual transmission) constantly on" how could i remedy this fault i.e; where is the neutral switch? on clutch pedal?

woot woot woot nah my mates ver7 wrx sti sounds fkn SEXY, his exhaust pipe cost him $1700 though, or something like that but yeah my legacy sounded whoop ass untill mr silencer got welded in

you mean like a 89-91 rs? there are heaps on trademe when i was looking to buy one there was only one or two, now that i have one there are like 10 of them on trademe lol mines going on trademe today also i just bought it for a do-er upper and i have another car lined up from my friend who works at giltrap prestige brand new wof and reg on this friday just gone, version 7 front and rear seats, lowered, 18s, bov and pod filter are the only mods, standard boost, manual, fresh service let me know if your keen im not in any rush to sell thought as i still drive it daily

a single turbo one

change your spark plugs! :-\ i had the same problem in my last subi was old plugs, it would start to foul just before i hit boost, but would run fine when not boosting and wasn't very responsive i changed the plugs to iridium plugs and i was boosting normally again p.s; it this doesnt fix it then change your coils back to factory legacy rs ones. dunno the deal bout sti ones but it wont make a difference in your case

this is the reply, explaining the previous preply, which should have actually said that i'm currently replying, but in past tense, but infact, this is the futureeee ooooOOOoooOOOooo (ghost voice)