THUNDA

f**k fwd tbh Rear mounted engine + Rear wheel drive = the win or 4WD otherwise pssshhhht ya gaye and also, the "back pressure" statement he made is a bit bullshite but with turbo cars back pressure isnt nessesary at all, infact the shorter the path way to get fumes out the better (think of how the wastegate works) back pressure is only needed for n/a cars for scavenging effect (im my opinion)

thats IF its not temp sensor, it is very likely to be temp sensor though, they can cause all sorts of dramas when they crap out

not really any way to check a leaking injector without taking it out, its easy to check if the injector is working (stethescope / skrewdriver to ear way) but you'll need to take the injectors out and get them cleaned in a high frequency cleaning thingy, or just get some 2nd hand ones, probably gona be the same price but its a bit of a risk buying 2nd hand injectors i rekon

2nd problem likely to be temp sensor but could also be a leaky injector releasing the pressurised fuel in the fuel lines into one of the cylinders, which would explain why if yoiu left it over a few days it would start first pop because that leaked fuel would have evapourated

I just put 20w50 in my car, and new oil filter i was reccomended it due to the car having very high kms car is running algood, it had about 6litres of oil in it before, the old owner just put new oil in without draining the old stuff out hahahah it took about 4litres and a bit to fill it back up anyone think 20w50 is a bit too thick?

also what oil do you guys think i should use? car has high kms

Do manual gearboxs run on the same oil as the engine? I wanna check my manual gearbox oil but havn't ever done so on a legacy before - and would it be a good idea to empty gearbox oil and put new oil in at high kms? Also diff oil, what to use for my legacy? i know how to check this p.s; car is bc5 legacy rs turrrrrbbbboooo

fwd is meh, my first car was a silvia s13 so never really got why people liked fwd

so nothing to worry about then?

Hey all just got another bc5 and am just wondering about something when im driving alot normally, from time to time my gas light comes on and off its usually allways of but sometimes it fades in and out. (yes i have fuel, over 1/2 a tank) anyone have any ideas as to why this would be happening fuel pump on its way out? injectors blocked possible? or could it just be faulty guage? cheers

^take it to bits and clean it with some wet and dry s.paper (lightly) theres probably just a heap of gunk stuck in it

you can also put honda engines in but lets not get TOOOO carried away lol just do ej20t mate, if you're going for turbo ej20t absolutely slays ej20tt

I've seen this car driving around on the shore quite a bit, sunnybrae road to be exact, havnt seen it for about a month though, and yep its low lol

20vac

i like the one on the right ;D

could be a fualty sensor of some type, how many kms has your car done? are you sure your reading the codes correctly? (this can be greatly overlooked) do you like apple turnovers?

yes bovs work most turbo cars have a standard bov anyway, which vents back into the intake, so you dont hear it when you upgrade your bov it will make no difference in performance if its a plumb back (plumbs air back into the intake as per standard) you may get a slight? performance increase if you upgrade your bov to and external vernted bov, the car will run rich when changing gears and decelerating, also idleing can take awhile to stabilize after revving the engine, because the air flow meter cannot measure the missing air as the bov re-entry point on the air intake is AFTER the AFM, (the part where the bov vents it excess air back into the air intake) therefore making your car run richer, less air doesnt mean more fuel, the car is putting in the exact same amount of fuel into your engine, its just not getting all the air that the afm has detected in the air intake. btw, i sold my legacy, i almost cried when i saw the guy driving it away, fuck that thing looked sexy, am pretty gutted now, went from a 15psi subaru legacy to a 2.6l mercedes nana car , o well my new rims arrive in a few days

yeah but im not getting a code now, and yes have tried to reset my ecu yes both knock sensors had identical plugs to mine and plugged straight in. thats why i bought 2 as to assure there would not be any problems as the car is ment to be sold today

Hey all Cars playing up, needs to be sold as i have a good offer and have another car lined up I just need an air flow meter for a gen1 legacy gt or rs (1988-91) anyhelp would be much appreciated as ive already spent heaps trying to fix the problem, and if its not this then its the whole ecu! 0210666306 cheers even if you dont have one spare but have some time for me to swap them around to see if its the problem cheers cheers cheers

Just paid $90 for 2 knock sensors, both from subaru parts connection, both have warrenties, tried both of them, neither of them make a differnce, OMFG ARGGGGG i guess next bet is to change air flow meter? argg... someone wanted to buy my car for 3k today but its not worth jack shit if its not fixed its weird it fouls @ 9psi then cuts like 1 second later, i can hold boost between 5-8psi then as soon as it hits 9psi it cuts. @#$#%@#%@#%@#

o yup sweet thanks for that you dont have a spare sensor laying around do you? its weird even though these cars were made on 1989 and are old, they just dont feel old lol maybe its just because im stuck in the 1988-92 era (i love heaps of cars made in this year, s13 is probly one of my fav cars to drive then legacy definately )

yup, getting code 22 its weird, now when i put my foot right to the floor (i like, NEVER, do this) it boosts 14ish but only on 3cylinders, i.e; feels like its fouling on the amount of fuel getting pushed in there but still going - then it will boost cut after a few seconds o well, ill order a new knock sensor on monday, unless i can source one tomorrow bah, what a hassle

Oh ok, 15 sounds about right, i had the boost gauge reading off the wrong vacuum line when i got that reading, havnt hit boost cut up untill a few days ago when this 9psi boost cut shit started

Factory ecu But not running factory boost controll solenoid at all, like its not even in the car, but never had any problems before, it hasnt been in the car for around 2months Just spoke to a guy at subaru parts connection he said its most likely to be the knock sensor or the boost solenoid, i've been reading up about knocking sensor problems all morning, and it sounds like a match, man i really should be doing some work, but i just wanna get this fixed ay >_<

Nah, 18psi ish