Markmcrs

Thanks for that.

Hi All, Trying to source an Auto trans mount to suit a BG Twin turbo. Not having much luck on the net. Gearbox code is; TZ102YBCBA-CV This mount is different from most Legacy trans mounts - the bolts face directly down vs the normal 45 degree angle of the more common mounts. It looks the same as this one - most noteable is the sensor just in front of where the tailshaft slides in; http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/subaru/gear-boxes/auction-690710117.htm A genuine part number would rock. Any help appreciated.

I was NOT talking about the OP in that comment, I was referring to the community in general (hence the "AVERAGE JOE") comment - no assumptions here. Why is it beyond most people's aims? I don't know what you guys believe to be true in NZ, but over here, 300kw's ATW's is about as far as you would want to go with the stock heads - I'm not saying you can't get more power with stock heads, but I am saying that they start to become a restriction that increases the further you push past 300. Above that, you need porting, cams, OS valves etc etc. You also need to seriously upgrade the fuel system for 600hp - the whole lot, injectors, rails, lines, pump etc etc. Above 300kw's ATW's the driveline also need looked at So you can get up to 280-300kw's ATW's for a reasonably mild outlay - chase another 200HP and you will spend a significant amount more. Thus this is why most people settle for 250-300kw's ATW's MAX And that would be your assumption. Funnily enough, to me, the 2.1 is by far the MOST oddball choice to make when spending $$$ for power. There are circumstances when a 2.35 is a better option than a 2.5, hence why some people "go down that path" - but that is a whole other can of worms... A few years ago, three of the biggest Subaru Specialist tuners/engine builders in Aus ALL had 2.35's in their personal cars', all making north of 300kw's ATW's 2.5's had been around for a while by then and all 3 shops had built many of them into big HP combo's yet they chose to go for a 2.35 for themselves... That is how YOU feel and there is nothing wrong about that. But it's a case of perspective. I had a modified VF22 (garrett Gt 30 comp wheel) on a V4 STi bottom end - freaking loved it. However it didn't see full boost till 4000+RPM's. It was my race car so the lag didn't bother me one bit and the fact that I had a 7800RPM redline helped too. You hand the car to someone with a stock MY 00 WRX with a TD04 to drive around town in and they'd whinge and whinge that it was a laggy POS. My point, a 500hp 2.1 may "seem driveable" in the hands of some, but once compared to a 500HP 2.5 the difference would be noticeable instantly. A 2.5 will spool quicker and it will have much more max torque as well as "area under the curve" and as a result would be the quicker of the 2 all else being the same. Actually yes, my maths was off on that one. I made 235kw's @ 19.5 psi on a dyno which was just over 400 flywheel horsepower. I ran 24 psi at the drags for nearly 121MPH and it was determined that the car showed 260-270kw's ATW's = 440 flywheel horsepower - which is what my turbo was rated too. So really, even more kudos for the ol budget 2.2. [quote name='funkytown said: I'm not discrediting other types of stroker, or ways of increasing cc's over ej20 but trying to show an ej21 isnt actually any more expensive than your average ej20 rebuild for a given power level. In most cases poeple might just reuse their open deck ej20h/k further saving themselves ej22 cases $$ if your point is about saving cash?? I pick up EJ22 bottom ends for between $50 and $150 - 90% of the time the crank and rods are good to go - $550 for the pistons and $150 for the bearings and I have all the bits I need for 400+ HP 2.2 for under $1K. I'll leave it at that for now. We each believe fairly strongly in our own choices. You have some good points and I think I have some too. If this helps someone make up their mind one way or another then hopefully that is a good thing.

To me milling heads is skimming the deck/face to get it true. I think you are talking about opening up the chambers to accommodate the larger bore. That is to a large extent not worried about in Aus - yes the bore is 7.5mm bigger in diameter but that is only an increase of 3.75 mm at the edge = stuff all IMO. I have only recently finished putting V4 WRX heads on a stock EJ257 bottom end - has been done stacks of times that I know of personally and no problems have come of this. If your worried about compression, simply run the thickest head gaskets you can get = 1.6mm. Up until a few years ago, the logic was to run lowish compression on built EJ's - now we have 70-85% ethanol fuels that are reasonably easy to buy the new hotness is BULK compression. My next big budget 2.5 on the go at the moment will be running 9.5:1 CP's and I'm slightly erring on the side of caution as there is 10:1 pistons available. I'll be going for the thinnest head gasket I can get away with also to help boost compression. I take it you guys only have 98 to play with?

There are several points to be made here. Firstly, for your AVERAGE JOE, 500-600HP is beyond their aims. Chasing that amount of power costs exponentially more than a more reasonable target of 400hp. A 500+HP 2.137 = the result of 2 litre bore and 2.5 crank will be an absolute pig to drive and will require a stupid amount of $$$ to get there. So looking at a more sensible and realistic build - say 400hp, how does a CD 2.1 compare to a EJ22 OD build? CD2.1; CD block, Pistons, rods, crank, thrust conversion. OD2.2 OD block, pistons...that's it! Result... The 2.2 is cheaper to assemble, has more cc's and will make more power = epic win. In my sig, at the drags in my RS, that is the setup I had - a bog stock EJ22 out of a N/A car with forged pistons, nothing else. Garrett GT3071 @ 25 psi making pretty much bang on 400hp - STOCK SUBARU RODS. If i was to take it a step up from there ( have already done it), there is 2 ways to increase the block strength of the EJ22. 1) ghetto JB Weld CD - I have done one of these for a mate. Wiseco pistons, Manley rods. He's currently making in the region of 280kw's ATW's - TD06 Variant, 25 psi and E85. Time will tell how much abuse the engine can take. 2) CNC closed decking - I can get an EJ 22 CNC closed decked for about $650 AUS this would make it good for 450-500hp easily. I would look to do a 2.35 over a 2.2 if I went down this path - I am actually about to do this very thing - block is ready to be sent of to have the CNC'ing done. If I was to chase 600HP, I would be doing it with a Sleeved CD block and 99.5mm pistons (2.5 spec). You would achieve the power target much easier and you could actually drive the car on the street with some degree of enjoyment - ie a reasonable boost threshold. As the old saying goes; "there's no replacement for displacement". I have already build a 600hp capable EJ bottom end, it has all the good/necessary things like sleeved CD block, ARP case studs, oil phase mod on crank and 12mm head studs etc, etc; http://s29.photobucket.com/albums/c279/markmcrs/EJ%20235%20Forged%20build/ I would not want to put ARP head studs in if the aim was 600HP, I have personally known them to not be up to it. As it is, the 2.2 JB block I built (sub 500HP) uses the better and more expensive ARP custom age head studs.

It will be a lot of mucking around.... Can't use regular 2 litre pistons - need custom ones with offset gudgeon pin. Closed deck block is centre thrust and 52mm journal - have to assume you have a phase 2 2.5 crank (like EJ257) which is rear thrust. So will need to either machine block or crank to get thrust to line up. Lot of stuffing around for such little (read fuk all) gain. You would be TEN TIMES better off getting a 2.2 block and buying some pistons to suit that = 2.35litre with the 2.5 crank. Can even get away with stock Subaru rods. Same cost and 200cc more capacity. I've built several of them, here a pic gallery of one; http://s29.photobucket.com/albums/c279/markmcrs/EJ%20235%20Budget%20Build/

I can tell you for a FACT that they will try their hardest to charge for pressure cleaning. I am in Adelaide, South Australia. A good mate of mine has personally imported 2 Mercedes from the UK. The second one got done for some leaves in the engine bay. Hello $440 bill for a 20 minute high pressure wash. I was a tow truck driver - so I picked the car up from the docks and delivered it to be washed and picked it up once done - another cost most people would have to endure. I can't speak for the other states, but SA is not too bad for compliance - car has to go to inspection station (another Tow) to be checked over. They love to pick on seat belts, ride height for stockish cars. If you have mods like BOV, turbo timer, dark tint, boost or other gauges on or around the dash/A pillar they will own you. In Adelaide all you pay for is stamp duty and rego - 3 months rego is only $200 for a 4cyl, insurance is not compulsory in SA. [quote name='mitSUBishi-guy said: Finally, comprehensive insurance. Anywhere from Too Much to WTF? Note - some insurance companies will not insure imports. I called 5 and got 3 quotes (NRMA, GIO, JustCars). AAMI and Commonwealth Bank both declined to quote. Premiums from A$1200 to over A$2000. NRMA was the best quote. If you're under 25 and it's a turbo, don't bother bringing the car. Just cars are pretty good, about the best actually. there is a mob called Shannon's that specialise in performance cars but Just cars beat them price wise every time. Main stream Ins companies like AAMI, RAA, SGIC don't want to know about turbo cars and will either decline to quote or give a stupid price. There are quite a lot of "personal Imports" getting around in Aus, so it must be a viable thing to do. Mark.

I would take a VF23 over a TD05H any day. They are not in the same ballpark - a VF23 and a TD05H20G are more on par with each other. With a TD05H @ 19psi I did a 12.83 @ 105.7MPH With a TD05H20G @ 19psi I did a 12.47 @ 110.XXMPH I would expect a VF 23 @ 19 psi to do a low 12 as well - mate did a 12.01 in a MY01 WRX wit a VF23 @ 20psi.

Every EJXX turbo engine ever built will bolt up to the 4 bolt Legacy gearbox. That is not going to be your issue. The biggest limiting factor for ease of fitment is the inlet manifold to head bolt pattern. This will limit you to EJ20's built between 1989 and 1998. If your after a WRX engine then you can fit any up to V4 = MY93-MY98 Your going to run into another problem with that though. a 1996 Legacy is Twin turbo (TT) - by purchasing a WRX motor (= single turbo) you will have to sort out oil and coolant return on the LH (passenger) side as the LH head is not fully setup for this on a WRX.

Thanks guys. I'm in South Australia I haven't 'swapped' looms as such - I picked up a complete DCCD loom and cluster and have fed it through the car to the applicable spots. It's the 2 plugs that currently clip into one another that have me stumped the most. What if we look at it from a different angle, what are all the relevant plugs of the DCCD loom connected to... 1) Thumbwheel 2) ECU 3) Relay 4) Gearbox 5) Cluster These I have all sorted, so what else is part of the DCCD? 6) Park brake wire? 7) Power source? 8 ) ? ? ?

Hi all, In desperate need of some assistance from any DCCD experts. In brief; I have a V4 STi I have amassed all the parts to retro fit DCCD, such as cluster, thumb wheel, ECU etc. Basically I have a complete, virtually unmolested loom, which has made everything easy except for 2 lots of unidentified wiring. I don't know what model the loom is from unfortunately, but I'm 99% sure it's GC8. So, thumbwheel, ECU, cluster, gearbox and relay are all plugged in. There is 2 earth straps and they have been earthed to the car. First problem; there is a Male/female plug that is currently joined together - they are located about 40cm down the loom from the green plug that slots into the cluster. It is a large white plug with black ends where the wires go in. It's like they intercept some other plugs? Could this have something to do with the brake pedal? The other set of wires - there are 2 together, are about 80cm from the thumbwheel. I'm thinking that these are for a power source and or possibly to do with the park brake switch. Any help greatly appreciated - I have done a fair bit of searching/reading on this forum already on this topic, but most of the info seems to be related to V5/6

Playing with head gasket thickness's when you don't know what you're doing is a recipe for disaster... I have done dozens and dozens of head gaskets on many different EJ motors. I learn't a few things the hard way whilst 'trying' different things. I once put 99 WRX head gaskets on a V3 Sti bottom end/97 GTB heads combo and that resulted in valves just touching pistons - no damage was done thankfully. That engine was running bulk compression and would ping on any more than 14psi with BP Ultimate - we stuck some race fuel in, ran 17-18psi and did a 12.5 in a full weight TT GTB wagon. As for the quality, I always go for genuine Subaru head gaskets. I am yet to see ANY difference between the stock fibre gaskets and multi layer steel(MLS) gaskets in terms of durability and resistance to big boost/excessive heat etc. I have fitted fibre N/A EJ22 head gaskets to EJ22 turbo builds capable of 400+flywheel horsepower - heck, I've even fitted 2.5lt MLS head gaskets to my own 2.2 lt motor which ran 25psi all day long. Bottom line, head gaskets aren't a weak point on EJ motors up to and beyond a genuine 400HP at the fly so my advice is to put back what was previously there. Changing the thickness can have more than 1 negative repercussion.

My 2.2 had completely stock rods... Engine saw 24-25 psi reguarliy and with a 1/4 mile MPH of 121 was making around 260-270 kw's ATW. Engine also saw several track days too. So I'd be inclined to say that the stock rods hold up pretty well. Also, if your going to the length of forged pistons and rods then building a 2 litre is a bit silly when you could build a 2.2 for the same price, with the potential for more power and for quicker spool and more torque too.

If he was to use an EJ 207 long motor that would be correct, but the advice is to just buy a new short motor from Subaru and fit his heads to it. Thus his inlet manifold and everything else will still bolt up.

He's running a TD05H with a 18G, where is the benefit in building your own bottom end? There is very little a built forged bottom end is going to achieve over an EJ 207 to warrant all the work involved in doing it yourself.

Tis easy.. Don't pull but rather push it out. If you try to remove the pin from piston 4 do it by pushing through the gudgeon pin access hole for piston no 2. Do this by positioning piston 2 such that it is just before or just after TDC and you can see no 4 gudgeon pin through the no 2 hole. Use a long thin flathead screw driver, butt it up against the gudgeon pin and gently tap it out. Be careful that the no 4 pin dosen't catch on the top of the no 4 access hole as it slides out - this will happen if you are too far from TDC on no 2. No 2 will be easy to remove now doing the same thing just starting from no 4 access hole - con rod will not be in the way this time. Repeat for other side. And pre-empting another question of removing pistons... Once the pin is out rotate crank a full revolution. Both piston 2 and 4 will be at TDC. Push no 4 down the bore and rotate it a minimum of 45 degrees at the same time. Then do another full rotation of the crank - rod will push the piston out.

For a bare short motor about $2.5-$3K AUD depending on which rods and pistons you go for. Heads; depends on if you use your own, which just involves the cost of getting them prepped by a head specialist (cleaned,faced and pressure/vac tested) and the cost of a pair of head gaskets, rocker cover gaskets and cam seals. If you don't have heads then it's+ what the heads cost to source

It would be cheaper, easier and quicker to just buy a brand new EJ207 short motor. I did this for a mate with a V4 WRX. Pulled the motor out, removed the heads and had them tidied up/faced and bolted them plus all the bits off his old motor (new water pump and oil pump though) onto the 207 and dropped it back in. He's very happy with it. They are a very strong bottom end.

Can do mate 2.2? Have built a few now for RSLC members, including this 2.2 long motor for Fergo; http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e18/rstransplant123/new%20rs%20liberty%20pics/picture002.jpg

I had a GT3071 with a .86 on my 2.0lt MY 98 WRX motor. Didn't make full boost (20-22psi) till 5000RPM's... Was a pig. Turbo was originally on my 2.2 and made full boost (24psi = about 260-270kw's ATW's) by 4000RPM's - was much nicer to drive with. A GT3071 with a .6 would be good on a 2lt if the engine was forged, had decent cams and drags was the sole aim. For a good daily driver with go a GT2871 would be better.

I ran a TD05H on a stock RS motor (2 bolt coils) @ 19 psi with stock ECU, stock WAIC, stock 380cc injectors and no fuel rail mods. Only mods were a bosch 040 and a dogbox - got a 12.8 @ 105.7MPH. Upgraded to a TD05H 20G and ran that for 18months on a stock early WRX motor also @19-20psi. - best time of 12.47 @ 110MPH, but had FMIC and bigger injectors then, though still stock ECU. As long as you don't get ANY detonation the motor will handle it fine - you'd be surprised what a stock motor can handle.... I briefly ran a Garrett GT 3071 @ 24 psi on a stock MY 98 WRX motor...ended in tears but that was more due to poor tune = detonation = bye bye bottom end.

No, no and no. Same clutch and flywheel and the gearbox's are physically the same. [quote name='sylus said: Would there be much difficulty in putting a v7 sti engine in? Yes! V7 has AVCS and if your car dosen't that means a whole lot of work and you'll need to fit an aftermarket ECU that can run AVCS. In your original question are you asking about just replacing your long motor with one from a V5/6 sti or are you asking about a full TT>T swap? Because if it's just the long motor your wanting to put in then there is no need for any wiring/ECU mods at all. You just bolt all the bits off your motor onto the V5 motor - only tricky part is modifying the LH head to accept oil and coolant feed/return lines for the turbo...

I suggest you never go back to that mechanic again.... Go get a 2nd opinion from an EXPERIENCED Subaru specialist workshop and you'll will save yourself alot of money. The CV's on a B4 push into the rear diff and are held in place by a circlip. It's not hard at all to the get CV to 'pop' out a little and thus have alot of movement in it. A rear diff and CV's will last well over 300,000km's providing the CV boots don't split and the rear diff oil is changed when due by the service book.

I have an AVCR and I'm happy with it. They can be alot of work to set up perfectly and they're not everyone's cup of tea. A mate sold his AVCR and went to an E-Boost and prefers that as it's alot easier to operate. So an AVCR or an E-boost would have to be given consideration. Good thing about AVCR's is if you get a 2nd hand one and you don't like it you can usually onsell with little or no financial loss.

The most common reason I find as the cause of an oil leak from the rear of the engine is not the rear main seal, but the large inspection plate held to the block by 6 screws. 2 causes of the leak from the plate are either; 1) Plate not siliconed or poor application of silicon. 2) Plate cracked (only happens with the bakerlite plates). I won't put an engine in with a bakerlite inspection plate, only an aluminium or the new pressed steel ones. I broke that rule with an engine I put in a Legacy GT wagon recently and paid the price - engine out and an ally plate fitted and the problem was solved. So the bottom line is, engine (or gearbox) has to come out to fix the problem.