suubyduuby

Did you check the battery voltage with a multimeter? Had a similiar thing happen with our Legacy - battery was going strong and then experienced a quick and sudden death. Started fine with a new battery. Sometimes you can have little to no warning. In our case, had just driven car somewhere...parked it, listened to music for say 10-15mins and then wouldn't start. Checked battery voltage - was down to 9V and dropped lower when trying to turn over. Weird aye!

Our Rev.C B4 has them. Were tucked up - had to get in with a torch like GravelBen suggested.

Have a look at this thread. Check out the search on the forums, quite a lot has been discussed on this topic http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php/topic,8630.0.html

Here you go: 12V 3A Timer Module 2 Seconds to 10 minutes -- Jaycar Electronics. RRP $41.90 http://www.jaycar.co.nz/productView.asp?ID=AA0364&keywords=timer&form=KEYWORD Alternatively, you could get a flextimer circuit kit: http://www.jaycar.co.nz/productView.asp?ID=KA1732&keywords=timer&form=KEYWORD And hook it up to a simple automotive relay: http://www.jaycar.co.nz/productView.asp?ID=SY4070&keywords=spdt+relay&form=KEYWORD

You might be interested in having a look at this: http://autospeed.com/cms/title_Intelligent-Intercooler-Water-Spray-Part-1/A_0527/article.html

Have you checked the +12V rail voltage when these strange happenings occur? Just wondering if there are any surges or drop-outs....Easiest way would probably be to wire up a couple of test probes in a cig lighter plug and connect to a multimeter...Then check while driving. What is the condition of your battery? Alternator performance OK?

Yes! I have Bosch Platinums in my BH Legacy (EJ208). Got them considerably cheaper than equiv NGKs. Seem fine - had them in for 10-15,000kms now and still going strong as ever.

96' Legacy should def have central locking (unless its been taken out of course) - so just a matter of finding the correct color-coded wire under the dash (should be relatively generic), splicing and wiring it the appropriate wire from the alarm. I guess the biggest downfall to a DIY install is how easily the system can be bypassed. Not sure if the alarm you have bought has color coded cabling, but this can easily be spotted by a crook and quickly ripped out. Ideally if your alarm has no color coding on the wires coming from the control box, that is great (should have labels to guide installation though - make sure you remove these as you go!) Just a comment to demystify negative/positive switching: - Switching negative (or often referred to as low-side switching): The relay/electronic switch when activated, switches with respect to ground. Ie. In the case of a door actuator, one wire would be permanently connected to +12V, the other to the switch. When the switch is closed (ON), a connection to ground is made, current flows and the activator/solenoid is energized. - Switching positive (or often referred to as high-side switching): The relay/electronic switch when activated, switches with respect to supply (+12V). Ie. In the case of a door actuator, one wire would be permanently connected to ground (chassis 'earth'), the other to the switch. When the switch is closed (ON), a connection to supply (+12V) is made, current flows and the activator/solenoid is energized. As commented above, different car manufacturers use different supply rail techniques. But I believe -ve switching is most common. Theory behind this is that power actually flows from - to +, not + to - (electron flow). But yeah, getting back on topic. - Do a clean job. Solder wire connections for best results or at least use high-quality crimp/bullet connectors (gold-plated etc). Appropriate tools make all the difference here. - Check supply rails and polarity with a multi-meter. - Try to hide wiring as much as possible - and avoid color coding. - If you are wiring an alarm with a data-backup battery, be careful how you wire this into the engine bay. Try to avoid areas of high electrical noise ie. routing past distributor cables etc. Be careful where the cable is routed - keep away from hot engine areas.

Yeah, had a hunch given that chip. All good - mystery solved aye.

It's a PIC 8-bit microprocessor (embedded/small processor chip). Wow, that's a end-of-line model too. OTP (one-time program), so can only burn software to it once. 4-20MHz operation. You running a Dynatron alarm?

Will be in the ECU. Located in/around/underneath dash area/center console. The mystery brain of the car

As mentioned above this is obviously ECU specific, and the label "Turbo" is not overly specific aye . Suggestions: (1) Any associated documentaion (manuals, guides) lying around, which might give you a hint? (2) Peel back the label - may reveal the chip (IC) manufacturer and model code. This could help to narrow things down. Google search? (3) The IC is a 28-pin, in what is commonly known as DIP format. This gives hint to age (possibly) = older (mid to late 90s). Can't quite tell from the photo whether the chip is a wide body DIP or standard (thin) size. Most likely a memory (EEPROM) IC, but could possibly be a microprocessor. But unlikely - most likely a modded/tuned ROM. Once again - very general observations here. The image you posted is a JECs-based ECU. Your right in pointed out the stock one has the DIP socket missing. Obviously, even if the unknown chip is the correct pinout (for the ECU) - it still *may* not be intended for the above ECU, and you have no idea of tuning params either Interesting stuff though - would be interested to find out what it ends up being! (and from)

I have tried disconnecting the activator with the flap up vs down, and can't hear much difference at idle. Got all excited about it when first discovered it, but yeah can't hear any difference at idle up vs down. I'm sure it does make it more free flowing though - ECU controls automatically, not sure of RPM numbers/conditions at which it activiates though...

Bought my wagon with aftermarket wheels which I dumped. Scored a set of factory BE/BH mags for around $450 with good tyres (which I also sold).

Check the factory service manual troubleshooting/diagnostics section. Includes a refernce on expected voltages if the TPS is good/bad. I have a copy of the Leggy BE/BH one if thats any good to you? THink there is also a link to download the PDF (its big, 110MB approx from memory)

My '99 GTB wagon had a coolant leak which gradually got worse. Was the waterpump on its way out - car had done about 95000kms so was coming up for replacement at 100k service. Got it done at the same time as the cam belt.

Dealerships aren't all bad. Bought my GTB Wagon from a dealers - did my own checks on it, got it AA'checked and its been an awesome car. Just have to watch out for those key things aye ;D

What brand alarm do you run? A friend of mine had a Uniden which did this...

I would suggest buy direct from Wingers or get your local mechanic to purchase at trade. Got my mech to buy genuine cambelt and rocker cover gasket set from them...

Just wondering if you have a photo? Have you removed and replaced the stock setup? "Aftermarket indicator relay" is quite a broad description

http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php/topic,1707.0.html --Matt

Quoting a previous post: Great car! Got my 1999 Leggy GT about 6 months ago and its a great daily driver and weekend car. Love the versatility of a wagon - great for snowboards, bikes, moving furniture etc If you're after a real drivers car, go for a manual. You get another 16kW (206kW total) or so over the 190kW auto version and better resale value as well. Only downside of the manual is that you can sometimes change into what is termed the VOD zone which is a bit like a gap between the two turbos. However once you get used to the car and where to shift, this is really a non issue. Auto versions don't feel the VOD as much (have driven both). Things to look out for: - If its done over 100km or just before 100kms, make sure it has had its cambelt/tensioners/idlers done and check to make sure the waterpump isn't leaking. If these haven't been done, try to negotiate with the dealer to have these as part of the sale as a good job afterwards will set you back about $1200 for the whole lot (incl cambelt/waterpump + accessories). - Rocker cover gasket seals. A common problem is that they tend to leak and need to be replaced. Symptons is oil drips under the car and a really hot smell/smoke coming from either side of the engine due to oil burning up on the exhaust. About a $300-400 job to get done. - Service history. Make sure its got one! Mine had service stickers from Subaru in Japan, so gave me confidence it was a good 'un. Look for regular oil/filter changes preferably every 5,000kms or at least every 10,000kms. - Signs that it has been thrashed. Earth leads, big bore exhuast, aftermarket stuff -- sometimes can indicate that the car has had a hard previous life in the hands of some Jap boy racer tearing up and down the streets of Tokyo. However not always - use disgression. Look at the service history, interior condition, general condition of the car and make a call. - CD Player. If its got a McKintosh sound system, make sure everything is fully functional and that the CD player is working. Can cost $$$ to fix otherwise! - Gearbox crunching and clutch. Check for crunching/signs of worn syncros. Make sure clutch is in good nick. Pop her in 2nd, handbrake on and slowly release clutch - should stall. If it starts to slip, then it'll be needing a new clutch. Negotiate that with the dealer if necessary, All the best with finding a good one. Once you do, you'll never look back.

Your right about the 100k service, not such a big deal especially if you've got a good mechanic or a mechanic mate The full service would typically cover: cambelt, tensioners/idlers, hydraulic tensioner, cam seals + water pump. (Plus depending on the service schedule, also a oil/filter change) That's what I had done on mine anyway. 99' GTB Wagon Plus got the sparks done about 10k afterward at 110km. Didn't end up getting NGK either, but equivalent Bosch Platinum plugs which appear to be equally awesome!

OK that's good to know - I'll just carry on with that I have been doing (taking it easy and not giving it much boost until engine temp has been reached). When you say "until full engine temp has been reached", I'm guessing you mean until the normal level has been reached on the temp guage? Not necessarily the point at which the slapping sound goes away? I usually go by time anyway - give it a good 5-10 mins, even if temp gauge is already normal. This necessary? I guess it won't do it any harm either way? Also, about the slap...was this a factory thing? Ie. known defect in that year range, or is rather a result of wear?

Oh that's good - that's what I have always suspected. I mean you still get a bit of the noise even after the engine temp guage has climbed to normal after a couple of mins, but then gradually goes away after 5-10mins. One quick Q though - with having this piston slap on start-up, I usually take it really easy until its gone away. Typically don't take it past 3,000rpm and try not to give it any boost even on the primary. Is this a good idea - or is just driving it normally (ie changing at 3,500-4,000RPM, normal acceleration on primary) better until the noise goes away? I was just wondering about this...whether not taking it past 3,000rpm and giving it little or no boost when cold, is causing it to take longer to warm up and the slap to go away? When I say "is it better driving it normally on startup", I don't mean giving it lots of boost, but just normal acceleration (which for me is just nice shifts at 3.5-4,000rpm)?? I guess I'm just trying to be careful and err on the side of caution :