suubyduuby

Check your sensor/sender wiring as well. Make sure the color coding matches the specifications on the box/in the manual.

Just found this site today. Some quite interesting examples of ex-Japan mod parts for the BE/BH5 shape: http://b4rsk84.hp.infoseek.co.jp/legacy-e.html

Had them done on the B4 - they where either NGK Platinums or Iridiums. About $30 a pop. Worth doing every 100k though.

Hmm...found this on Youtube, very similiar if not identical sound: The guy reckons though he's had his for another 40,000kms and still going strong. Just annoying that's all. Some of the comments: "Just want to post an updated comment since I've gotten so much feedback... apparently this is NORMAL. My cars been running strong for over a year now and 40,000km later, not a problem. So relax and enjoy the car. :)" "I have a 2008 WRX with 7500 miles. Same noise when the engine is cold, but it gets quieter when warm. From what everyone's said, it's nothing to worry about, but since mine is so new, I'm going to swing by the dealer." "Same issue here... 04 WRX.. goes away when it warms up just a normal Subie sound"

Fair enough comment - but correct if I am wrong, you can't really do much about cold piston slap can you? Apart from new pistons with better skirting tolerance when cold...? I mean...I've heard of engines that have had piston slap their whole life with no problems. Believe it was a but of an issue with some of the 2.5 engines shipped to usdm vehicles as well.... Was Subaru supposed to fix the piston slap on the EJ206/208 engines as part of a factory warranty fix?

Tru tru...Normally do oil every 5k, and does it even after a fresh change... MBL8 sounds interesting though...has anyone else using it?

Sounds right mate. When you're driving, the alternator is charging your battery and so the cell voltage reads higher - typically 13V or so. When the engine is switched off, you're reading the charged cell-voltage of the battery - should be around 12-12.5V. Less than 12V ie 10-11V indicates a flat or dying battery.

Legacy B4 RS = 2.0L N/A Legacy B4 RS25 = 2.5L N/A Legacy B4 RS30 = 3.0L N/A Legacy B4 RSK = 2.0L twin-turbo EJ206/EJ208 (auto/manual)

How loud do you find it is with this mod? Make any noticeable difference to performance?

Have just been reading a bit on CS once again about the issue with cold piston slap on the Leggy EJ20TT engines. My 99 BH5 (EJ208) has a noticeable cold piston slap when cold, but goes away after a short amount of driving as the engine warms up. From what I've dug up on the forums and net research, seems like a common issue with some of these motors. However, it seems clear that oil choice and engine additives can also make a difference to resolving this problem. Normally I let the car sit for 30 sec to a min when its cold in the morning and then drive it. I'm currently running Shell Helix Plus 10W-40, but have run Castrol Edge 5W-30 in the past (as recommended by Subaru - can't remember if this made a difference though when cold?). Anyone found that the issue is aggravated/relieved by certain oils? I'm guessing its not a show stopper though - from memory I remember reading it was something to do with the semi-forged natured of the R/H bank pistons which are slapping against the cylinder wall until the tolerances are met due to heat expansion... ??? Would be keen to hear people's thoughts on this... :

So there's no boost controller on the Z/S just twin-turbo crossover point adjustment?

Umm i dont like it. Whoever wrote the sales spiel for the auction is either struggling to find features or just doesnt know what they are talking about. ZeroSports controller is tested and proven to be good Basically they're saying it runs at 4MHz. ;D Wow - that's not exactly going to set the world on fire, but its an embedded processor. Nothing new there. ;D

Mine does it as well...as does friend's RSK. His other ones did it as well... Seems to be a feature of the ISC valve/system when cold ???

I've seen this happen twice now. ;D One of the few pains with the S5 - apart from that, its a great alarm!

Where'd you end up getting it done at?

Originally used Castrol Edge 5W30 as that's what Sublab recommended. Now use Shell Helix 10W40.... Do oil/filter every 5k on mine as well.

I would say that possibly with the exception of the Evo's active yaw control system, most/if not all AWDs will exhibit understeer unless you give it the old 'scandinavian flick' which creates oversteer through weight transfer. Seriously though - Sub's aren't designed to be drifters and especially not on the street. If you want to do trackdays and have an awesome handling machine - buy a Suuby. If you want to drift around a track, buy a Silvia. I've driven both and each has its own advantages.

Great stuff - glad you got your problem sorted... ;D

Awesome PDF. Gotta love this quote though: GENERAL IMPROVEMENTS Listed below are some common parts that will either save you $$ or easily improve your car. 1 Stickers, a full range of Subaru World Rally Team as well as STi badges and signage is available. ;D ;D ;D

No - you just have to ask for the $450 deal. :

Yeah thats right. Only the DENSO ECUs are tunable. The earlier ones were made by JECs and no major tuning software ever really came out for them so I believe. EcuTek tune is possible with the DENSO ECUs. Torque Performance in Auckland do that, combined with an upgraded intake - think its around $1500 though, but supposed to iron out a lot of the hassle with the VOD. If you get one with the DENSO ecu though, you can tune it yourself IF you are confident in what you are doing. OpenECU/Romraider are tools which you can use for the job - you may even be able to score a pre-tweaked ROM off the net and all you need to do is flash it to your ECU. Keeping in mind though to backup the original image onto your PC in case of a problem...

If you're in Auckland, Calvotech Alarms on the shore will do an S5 installed for $450 http://www.calvotech.co.nz You have to ask though...

Hmm, have seen this done before.... First of all, check to make sure the siren has been turned off (but I'm guessing not, unless you have played around with the siren key)... Anyway, do this and you will get yr chirps back ;D: 1) Disarm car and hop inside (ensure all doors are closed incl drivers) 2) Turn ignition on but don't start the car 3) Depending on what remote you have: * Torch Remote: Press LEFT button ONCE * Waterproof remote: Press BOOT RELEASE button ONCE 4) You'll get a chirp! Turn the ignition off. You should now have your disarming/arming chirps back again. Let me know if this works for you.

Some are worse than others. A friend of mine has a B4 which shudders quite bad. My GT shudders ever so slightly when its cold and you're reversing out of the driveway in the morning. But only very slightly... Will probably worry about it later on when I do the clutch ;D

;D Hehe Not a geek mate, just my work that's all. It's a fine line that I try not to cross - but sometimes it happens... :