Turbosmart actually recommend to tee off the boost gauge in the installation notes but I wanted to see if there was any truth in it being bad, all opinions are good but better if they are backed by real world results
Why is it bad ?? Not sure if your familiar with v7 engines Loren but besidesthe bov and fuel reg thats pretty much it.. Although there is another that can be made but I snapped the bung off trying to undo it will need to tap it out at some stage
Being that the V7 EJ207 is blessed with so many factory vacuum signals is it safe to splice into the fuel reg manifold line?
I think I read somewhere its not suitable.
I agree to ,from research I have read bar and plate design was more efficient and tube and fin had the advantage weight wise but I to am learning as well thats why its goid to ask such questions.....
But enough of this I feel a disturbance in the force we should stop bickering now before supacooler steps in and ends us all
Yea I thought it was a legit question specifically why the fabricator thought it was average, was it the design, build quality, small tubes , **** fin design as it seems to work well in your application unless you plan on smashing out 400kw later on is that why your upgrading Kris
Im pretty sure the stock sock angles downwards and the deatschwerks was more straight which is where the problem lies I think and is the reason I left it off and got a new stock sock
I'd be interested to know his thoughts as well I'm gonna update the core at some stage to something that will work with the front impact beam
What drew me to this set up was the piping and the way its routed it seems like most Bugeye kits run the piping down the back of the motor and under the car. The way this piping runs will make it easier when I rotate the compressor housing and if I ever decide to flip the manifold
Cheers Bro not fussed about installing it myself I've done a few just the last GDB kit I installed on a friends car had a few nasty surprises (missing parts etc)
I wont be breaking the 300kw mark so all good there no fog lights to so all good there.
I giggled at the beam also it looks like its made from plastic but it might make it look better to my wof guy, I definitely will not cut the front beam as I dont wanna have to cert the car.
So taking it off and putting it back on when I find a core small enough to fit in the space provided would be great.
I would love the perrin setup but that requires perrin money and I'm a cheap Kieeent.
So has anyone got a wof with this setup installed??
Just like to give a big recommendation to Nick down at NST the service and advice he supplies is awesome. Its very hard to find service like this in the aftermarket game, I often find if your not Mad Mike or Fanga Dan you'll get short or blunt answers but not from this bloke so big ups to him....
Cant wait for my goodies to arrive
Right oh, ass licking over:p as you were
http://www.redlineperformance.co.nz/products/intercoolers/front-mount-intercooler-kits/subaru/subaru-wrx-and-sti-gdb-intercooler-kit/
Has anybody used this kit seems to come with a new support beam and a new overflow bottle.
I'd like to know about fitment issues if you had any, also how much you needed to cut the front bumper up.
Any advice is appreciated
http://www.redlineperformance.co.nz/products/intercoolers/front-mount-intercooler-kits/subaru/hks-type-s-intercooler-kit-subaru-sti-2000-on/
I was also looking at springing a bit more for this but the piping runs under the car much like the HDi kit for bugeyes
Where specifically is the shuddering occurring? Can you feel it through the steering wheel or is the whole car shaking?
Warped Discs can do that any feel through your pedal or any vibrations?
Also a loose drive shaft would make the whole car shake! Or a wheel outta balance can do it to!
but whatever it is, its to do with something rotating so investigate around your wheels etc