hhhh1

im in nelson

ive got one here you could have had for $50..too late now

perhaps...or maybe its one of those things that always has power going to it provided the battery is hooked up. i really dont know though thats just a guess, and im only going off what ive been told by other people in regard to what the fuse does/is for

i thought removing the fuse caused the rear wheel drivetrain to disengage from the rest of the transmission but im apparantly incorrect

i dont know much about the suby auto transmissions but i assume the wheels will be turning the halfshafts which turn the rear diff which turns the driveshaft which will be spinning something in the trans while other bits arent spinning as they would in normal operation..or something like that, boostin will know

yea thats the thing i got told would get wrecked unlees the fuse was disabled. man i wish my car was auto again lol just so i could test it out. maybe ill have to go to a car dealer testdrive an auto sometime...have you or anyone else actually done it themselves to confirm what it actually does?

and yes i know the brake thing would be the same in the cef, both easy to replace, but id rather someone more competent handles the important stuff like brakes just in case....

my problems havent been electrical thank god, just mechanical stuff eg the last thing was seized brake caliper. i dont know about electrically but i know most of the stuff in the engine bay is a joke to work on in a suby as theres no room, even changing the clutch in a subys a major pain in the arse isnt it?

im a bit confused now, you seem to know your sht. but ive also been told its so you can lift up the front and tow your auto if it craps out without stuffing the trans or something. wouldnt that mean that the rear wheels were disengaged completely?

If you don't like it, fix it yourself -yeah i reckon thats fair enough and i try to its just harder in a legacy than it is in a cefiro. but yea ive never had a problem with my second hand parts

are you sure?? ive been told by several people who have had auto bd5 legacies who stuffd round with the fuse marked "diff lock" that it makes it fully FWD, and that they did good as fwd skids...i dont see how 50/50 power spilt would make this even remotely possible

yea the turbos have it too

i was under the impression at least with my model (94 rs legacy) that manual power split was 50/50 and auto was 65/35 Rwd/Fwd. And yes my driving experience did seem to confirm this as my car stepped out way more when it was auto and was easier to control sideways too compared to how it is now that its converted to manual.

i dont entirely agree with you there. its a bit like saying paying $20 000 for an old wrx is a good deal coz itd be way cheaper than if you had to make all the parts in it and assemble it yourself. it is true that itd be cheaper/easier to buy the wrx for $20 000 but its still a rip off. i know its not relevant in this case where a diagnosis is required but if anything goes wrong on my suby i just replace the whole problem area with cheap secondhand parts, its not worth getting most stuff actually fixed as the labour charges are just ridiculous

waste of time converting a stuffed engine to single turbo...just buy a single turbo replacement engine ie out of wrx/forester etc (might as well fork out a few hundy extra fo a sti one IMO). you will also need the gearbox crossmember from the single turbo and the single turbo downpipe. i dunno if you can use your ecu of loom without some rewiring though, and you might possibly need a few more bits?

i had a similar problem in my twin turbo rs (1994). it started boosting up to 19psi and ran fine. about 3000km later i blew a piston. running too lean i think. my new engines out of a 95 gt and this will cut out when the boost reaches 15psi which is sorta annoying. i might check my hoses too. let us know if you find whats wrong with yours

ok im keen to do this also. but i want to be able to change back in case i dont like it or decide to get a warrant for my car. i have a 94 rs legacy. just to be sure all i need is: -centre diff (to be welded up/already welded) -front cv cups (to hold front hubs together) -sti rear diff (so i dont wreck my one) -rear axels (so i dont wreck my ones) Questions: is the above right? is the sti rear diff stronger than the rs legacy one? would sti rear halfshafts/cvs be stronger than my existing ones? is swapping the centre diff easy or does the gearbox need to come out or something? (someone whos done it should make a guide i reckon) TIA

lol still havent fixed it. would these fit? http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Car-parts-accessories/Subaru/Accessories/auction-206528506.htm

yea no need for cert with manual conversion as youre just replacing your autobox with a factory subaru part

i have the 94 model, which im pretty sure is EJ20H. if i got the sti loom, ecu, and engine rather than just stuffing round with my loom, what would need rewiring?

Car: 94 rs legacy Suspension: GAB Adjusties Mags: Corsa wheels diamater: 17" Wheels width: 7" Offset: +45 Tyres spec: 215/40/R17 did you have to roll the gaurds?: dunno but i did

about $100 for rear struts should cover it. id pay a mechanic to have a look at it and drive it too as they might pick up stuff you wont especially as they can put it up on a hoist and have a look at the underside

if i was you id try get a wrx engine in and lose the twin turbo, easily doable with $2k id think. and theres no way anyone will buy your car for $4k even if its done low km (doesnt matter if engine stuffed) unless maybe its packed with aftermarket parts so dont even consider this

oh yea and my engine didnt blow a big end either, 1/4 of the piston blew out. Made a funny rattling noise to start with, i thought "ok so somethings rubbing on the guard, pulled over and stopped still made the noise, "oh f**k!", then we kept driving it home then the noise got way louder and there were literally a cloud of smoke behind us covering the whole road. called it a day then. still started after that though just ran shite and smoked heaps and made a rattling noise. i took the heads off the engine and yep massive hole in a piston, no wonder it smoked so much

my rs legacy crapped itself a while ago too. cost me $700 for a 118000km engine from a 95gt (yes i know this is the inferior EJ20-H, but thats what it as before) and it cost me $400 for labour to get old engine pulled and new one put in so $1100 all up. plus i made $150 selling a turbo off it plus about $50 selling the block for scrap and selling an uppipe so really only cost me $900 plus ive got some spares now. I was just wondering, is there any difference with the auto and manual EJ20H because ive heard that in the auto the turbos kick in at lowr rpm than in the manual. anyone know if this is correct?