WRXONP

its a 20g td05 ... it shows the vf22 specs to compare them to the greater 20g specs....

am fully wanting to do this to my car...i would not do it the crown wheel way..i would and if i do ill do it by leaving gearbox in and removing center diff and locking it and refitting and removing front shafts

yea notice there were a shit load more early evos there than subys and the evos were at a higher standard.... y didnt u enter ur car???

the RS had huge twisted turbo with link and big fuel rails and all...WAS MY favorite car there anyway sure was mint.. there was heaps of top notch other cars rather than subys..HKS EVO etc

tru i think that would work with extra water temp sensors maybe??

u obviously didnt look hard enough then??? RS KIKN was perfectly straight...had the cleanest shiney paint job...and the engine...WOWZER....... + the engine sitting on the ground is the one that sits in STA parts...it has a low mounted (standard position) TD06...i never knew u could fit a td06 to the standard spot??? can a td06 like this bolt straight on? 20g im guessing

u shouldnt ruin a BKR plug on a EJ...theyre a resistor type plug...the reason theyre "eating out on it" is because u should run BKR with a old school points type ignition with distributor BCPR6ES is perfect on a mild setup...set the gap to .8 or i think most feeler blades allow u to set to 0.787 which is fine... Running a 1.1mm gap on a standard ignition is a no NO....as the boost will blow the spark out especcially at night time... The whole theory is though that a smaller gap produces less power and a larger gap produces more power... for example a RB26DETT running standard coils has missfire / spark blow out on 1.1mm gap plugs...run the gap at 0.8 and all is good....Switch over to spitfire coils ($1000 coils) and u can run the gap back to 1.1mm as the theres a shit load more spark energy meaning it can have enough force to still jump the gao under high boost pressures in the cylinder etc.....more power is made by doing this as more air/fuel is burned... as for cp93mm id recomend u run BCPRS7es gapped to 0.8 and see how u go on the dyno... are u upgrading ignition at all? cos if u are youd be able to open the gap up more and get better drivability and more power / smoother power curve.... iv experienced alot of different plugs on the dyno and BCPR plugs win hands down...for price and performance..... and as for the other guy running 7s in his non turbo...u know there is such a thing as running too cold LOL.. pull ur plugs and have a look at them iridium plugs are shit...less continuity than coppers and they cost a shit load more they only last longer just my 2 cents and what ive had experiences with hope this helps

how does diagnosis know the mechanical thermostat is stuck???

LOL do u have a GTB set of rims pappu?

anyone on here whos good at photoshop keen to do a favour for me? i just want to know what the GTB bronze rims look like on my new car?? allways liked the rims just wanting to see them on me car

aww ok thats cool but i was meaning the dude with the poddy out the bumper LOL osrry bro if i wasnt clear....

so do u have a pod off your AFM and in some sort of air box...the a snorkel / intake duct with a pod on it also??

thanks for explaining that makes me see the light now

so im still confused.... u remove the crown wheel so the lay shaft is not conecting drive through the pinion to the front differention yeah?? thats understandable...but then u say "weld the center differential?? in the pic of the gearbox split apart there is only one differentiial inside the box??? front ...center??? if its the front one u lock why do u need to lock it if there is no crown wheel conecting the drive??? and if it were locked with the axels still in and no crown wheel then the car wouldnt turb ie skip / sledge every where... is there something im missing here

id beg to differ that though (not on a twin turbo tho) but on my rex i replaced exhaust with a high flow straight through and it saved me gas because u use waaaay less throttle to go everywhere and turbo spools waaay earlier....

well on my old rex i dyno ran my car on 95 V-Power and it detonated like shit...ran it on 98 from gull and detonated like shit (ethonol blend) and then ran it on BP 98 and detonation on the knock link was minimal nearly disapeared...reseeting ecu each time too......

yes but if the welds were solid would this work?? im unsure if it will just lock the gearbox and have no drive at all or will it be RWD? another thing i am just unsure when people say remove the front crownwheel....then they say lock the center diff bt welding it?? is there another "differential" in the gearbox other than the fron one u remove the crownwheel from?

LOL no thanks... Plus the welds in that pic look like a bird shat all over it those are sooooo weak... My momma could do a better weld with no welding helmit and her eyes shut !!!!

would welding the pinion to the crownwheel like that pic above even work or would that make the gearbox fully locked and unable to drive??

haha douche!!!

91 octane should be fine in a non turbo...98 in a turbo the reason for resetting the cu is because subarus use electronic ignition timing (u cannot adjust it)... resseting the ecu adjusts the timing to suit the fuel u are running

broken link?

yea replace clutch and get flywheel machined and either rebuild box (pretty sure some people on here can do it for ya) or replace with a knowen good one