Shale

TL;DR: don't do it if you EVER intend to sell the car. ;D

Normally I'd agree, but if the aim is to use a shell as a race car, then an N/A is as legit a starting point as a turbo. If it's all about replicating an STi...HAYELL-NO.

Definitely swap for a stronger gearbox, only took one grumpy shift to get one of the several HX gearboxes we have around in the group to detonate, with nothing but a Legacy EJ20G in front of it. ;D

HX20s has hydro clutch, but the wrong kind.

Chassis is fine - it's a GC8/GF8, so it'll handle it. Gearbox will probably assplode into a brazillion pieces (or at least shred a gear if you get grumpy at it). And yeah...clutch funtiems Wiring...not the same. If you want a challenge...knock yourself out Brakes...for the love of all things good and holy, CHANGE THEM. Suspension...you will want some upgrades, but that's a duh if you're getting it ready for track. Ultimately I'm NOT a proponent of modifying the sh!t out of an HX, as that's exactly what I'm doing and it's the hard road and then some. But if you intend it to be more than 'just' an STi - ie a track car, caged and everything - you've got a perfect starter shell. You'll ultimately change out anything that's HX, WRX, STi for track-worthy aftermarket stuff anyway, so better save the money and go for the chassis code, not the final trim. But for the love of all things good and holy, don't try and make an STi out of an HX20s ;D

Nope, saying that I dunno if you can mix and match as they're completely different heads. The issue will be in compression ratio and the crown of the piston, if there is an issue. I'm sure the boffins about the place will have the correct answer here.

Don't forget that some WRXs have 20K heads also - version 3 is the gift that keeps on giving. Are the compression ratios the same across the board? I do know that there are incompatibilities within the 20G shortblock; can't swap heads between Legacy and Impreza. I'd rather swap in a whole, known-working motor or replace with new or PBMS bottom end. Either get reliability or get fresh IMO Saves more money in the long run.

Don't EJ20G and EJ20K motors have completely different injectors, AFMs and ECUs?

It'd be worth the cash to get the right motor I reckon. Save all the farting around with the OBD-II crap in the new motors ;D

My god, the cheek of it. Outside your bloody house!! What area of AKL? We'll keep an eye out, that's a hella distinctive fozz.

Removed the banter. Y U NO make it easy to use this thread, people! ;D

He decided that prep was overrated, and used enamel instead of proper clearcoat (because it's cheaper, apparently?). As a result the enamel has yellowed, taking all the blue out of my blue steel...it also flakes off the lovely silver paint underneath. That was a $2000 job. The paint itself was even and had no flaws, but the prep was terrible. It's for that reason I'm from now on doing my own work, or using a reputable shop that has examples of their work rather than just word-of-mouth.

A cheap paint job changes colour and peels off. Don't even go there. Why don't you get a car in the right colour? As someone who bought a silver HX, and now have a peeling grey HX with an STi body kit and over $30k spent on it... unless you have a mega budget, don't even consider changing important things about your car like its colour, drivetrain and powerplant. It sounds cool and 'it's my baby, I'll do what I want' but it's not worth the tears unless you have a solid, complete plan and a stable budget for it. Been there done that, and like I said...ya gotta be crazy to even go there. I have no regrets, but every other way is cheaper and easier.

Frickin excellent ;D That's what it's about, huge grin over the new baby! We upgraded Leonidas from 'running' to 'driving' Wiretap did a few bits on it...I just got in the way and damaged my hands lots Now needs a bottle of ATF and an exhaust. Then it's doneburger.

A good paint job is approx $5k. Don't go for cheaper. If you consider going for cheaper, I'll introduce you to my Impreza. This will convince you as to why it's a bad idea

Not really to the first, and absolutely NOT to the second. Not unless you wanna look like a rice queen.

Pretended to be helpful as Jasn00 and I wrestled the bloody BC5. Came unstuck trying to get the pipe from the WAIC to the turbo onto the blasted turbo...Wiretap turned up and got it on no sweat, then tidied up a few intake/vac lines we moogied up. From there it was general housekeeping sort of stuff, a spare battery in the boot because the fuel pump isn't getting power, and then.......turned the key 8) It runs, baby. It runs. Exhaust, shifter cable, power to fuel pump. Then it's ready for compliance, WOF, rego, and a big fat bow on its bonnet for the sister's ever-approaching 18th birthday

Both Auckland tracks are unattainably expensive Pukekohe is an outrageous $4000 incl GST and the required staff (which is why DOBC is going to Manfeild or Taupo next year), and Hampton is at least $6000 IIRC. The other tracks around the country are $2500 or less. p.p.p.s This is the Southland forum ;D

Frickin' gorgeous baby if you ask me... glad to see BC/BF owner numbers on the rise again ;D

^ This man just made my day. ;D Welcome aboard man, this is a quality member if ever I saw one ;D Hope we can be of service!

214,000km on the Impreza (original motor) and only just now has it decided that it's spark plug time again ;D Legacy's gone 294,000km but has one hell of a chequered past mechanically and is on a WRX motor with a good 160,000km on it. They go longtiems if you treat them well

Has been a good year from what I've seen ;D Hats off to an excellent run IMO. And best of luck with the new project car...much glory is ahead

Hahaha. I reckon a BF would go to waste on such folks then ;D They're best saved for those that appreciate their true awesome

Would also go there if/when rich Occasionally the high-end Ohlins appear on TardMe...have consistently seen $8k second-hand for them ever since :-X

It can change the final result. But I'm looking at the forest, not the trees. Srsly, you'd massively benefit from using the flappy bits on the side more than the flappy bits on the front.