Nick_96_RSB

Reverse Was Crunchy Last night at the servo, it just didn't want to pop into gear at all some info i have found points to clutch others to gearbox there is a guy on here with a box locally for $100 says its all good, was a spare in his lockup & no longer needed - so that could possibly be the easiest option right now Have flicked Rick a text to see if he can diagnose for me, fingers crossed, i have about 48 hours to get it sorted

is pretty bad, just went to pick the missus up from work went into gears fine with car off once car running stiffened up, went to the servo on way back, had to reverse and it was crunching not wanting to go into gear will go into 1st fine on occasion but for the most part it quite an effort, once rolling all good have put up a FS thread in misc section to try either swap for or sell some gear to get another box to put in asap, i don't quite think a flush is going to cut is somehow am heading to palmy on Thursday so need to try get it sorted asap!

I'm sure someone in Welly will know how to do it easy enough, otherwise probably off to rick after looking on google, most suggest draining, refill with something cheap, take for gentle drive through all gears, empty & refill with something decent the gearbox drives fine otherwise, no crunching/rattles etc its just finding 1st that has become a bit shit am off to palmy on thursday so fingers crossed it holds up

lol worst comes to worst i have a Toshiba projector i can sell/swap to fund a new gearbox

what did you do to fix it in the end?

any idea how much fluid I would need to buy to put back in it once its drained? Should I run that for a bit & do another flush a few weeks later? or how soon? I'll need to get some local help due to not having anywhere to do any work on the car nor know wtf i'm doing when it comes to this stuff

So since yesterday have been having a bit of trouble engaging first gear, have to almost force it in, all other gears seem fine, just a pain in the ass when stopping at lights etc having to try shove it back in is a 5 speed gearbox out of a 96 BD5b/c leggy I don't launch etc, clutch is operational could this just be from worn synchros? fingers crossed, any advice appreciated otherwise time to start saving for a new box

Put this on , think i need to take the hose clamps off the original pipe and use them on the other ends of the silicone joiners, seems fine atm but will chuck them on tomorrow for peace of mind

The one attached to your primary turbo is more than sufficient bro, I'd worry more about getting your new engine in and get it running properly standard first , then start modifying as you see fit and unless you can find a decent one second hand on here/trademe/ebay - cheap & good don't generally go hand in hand

Got my Zerosports intake pipe all they way from Kuala Lumpur this morning ;D

There goes Hape and his USB sticks then haha Here is a REAL Dj if you can even call him that! Master of turntables, and a choice dude too and i guess with Technics ceasing production on 1200's that there will be more demand for them to get fixed in the coming years

all good bro no worries

would this include some of your handy soundsystem work? would you be keen to look over my sounds at some stage and find where the earth hum is coming from?

loved my TT rs when i had it some 6 years ago, was the most comfortable and realiable subaru ive owned, went well around town and didnt take long 2 get to 100ks Agreed, i would love to upgrade to a WRX eventually, but for now I've got lots of power down low for round town driving & hillclimbing, and a full throttle 3rd gear pull will see you easily breaking the law with little to no effort, yeah VOD is a bit of a pain in the arse, but its only there for a second and as long as your not shifting in that zone you can keep it on boost nice and easy and its Comfy Cruiser spesh with WRX seats fitted

http://www.caraudiohelp.com/newsletter/amplifier_blowing_fuses.htm check this out, few examples of why amps shit themselves reversing speaker polarity should not affect your amp at all i would say it is probably a faulty power supply within the amp

The blue on the coupe looks like it's still liquid! https://www.facebook.com/pages/RDL-Performance/123370121073928 YUM! that is pure sex!

no problem, hope you find what your looking for, i'm not sure what other ones will fit but i am sure others here will know - ive just got bilstiens with Tien superlow springs & haven't tried anything else sorry, do a search on here of BG5 & suspension or other such keywords, your sure to find some info

Insert type: http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/subaru/electrics/auction-444345910.htm Other type: http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/nissan/electrics/auction-444746731.htm

you will need to replace your current AFM with one of the same, if you have an orange AFM now, replace it with an orange one, if you have insert type AFM then replace that with another of the same

that's good of them! but take the couple of hundred you need & bump that up a few hundy more for a full 100k service - and use GENUINE parts! id say that's a good result though

errrm, yes it is........ & yes it does.... if you went to a bar and the bar staff were complete ahole's to you every time you went there would you go back? no...... bars dont give away drinks for free, and alot of them are 1 mil+ a year business' from Selling liquor/food there are plenty of people that will come to a bar i am working at because of how i treat/look after them "Never trust a used car salesman" .... or a skinny chef for that matter

agreed, ive worked in hospo for 10 years & if anyone comes at me screaming & ranting at the top of their lungs the best they are going to get from me is escorted off the premises. if they are under no legal obligation then yelling is only going to make you look like a herp derp & get you told to eff off. you've already given them your money so your bargaining position is now weak I would either calmly ask for some kind of resolution, even if they will partially cover the cost? IMO you have left it for 5 months, so basically you are going to have take the costs on the nose, and remember for next time. I'm sure had you brought it up when you were negotiating to buy it & said "hey, i want this car, but i'm concerned about the cambelt etc, you get the work done & i will buy the car" then you might be in a different position. but as i see it 5 months is too long to leave it to go back - Buyer Beware

heres some in canada http://www.ebay.com/itm/JDM-1995-1998-SUBARU-LEGACY-GT-GT-B-BG5-BILSTEIN-SHOCKS-SHOCK-ABSORBER-STRUTS-/130636603689?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item1e6a8c6129#ht_3583wt_952 or some coilovers in japan http://www.ebay.com/itm/JDM-95-99-Legacy-BG5-BD5-STI-Apexi-Coilovers-Springs-/200674232690?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item2eb91dc972#ht_8151wt_1185 duno what the laws are in the bahamas about modifying, but would it be cheaper to get an aftermarket set depending on weather or not certification is required it could end up being the cheapest and longest lasting option there is also some on the trademe website here, but the shipping & customs will be a killer, never know though, you could contact some shipping companys and find out?

funny shit, pity about the ghey music, but works for what it is like this guy at Strong - i like his herp derp styling & his adidas sweatsuit http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oLxCAEe0Zp8

like calling someone a retard Herp Derp: An expression used when a person, or yourself, has done somthing extremely stupid and dopey Person 1: Dude, I just hit my head on the door. Person 2: HERP DERP.