Scoobydoo

you can use 4ohm speakers, if you unhook the tweeter. Both the speakers and tweets are 8-ohm, which actually gives the amp a 4ohm load. If you get some good 2- or 3-ways, they'll sound better than the standard crappy paper cone speakers. If you upgrade your headunit, you can bypass the factory amp altogether. I'm yet to do another write up on this. I'll have time tomorrow so I'll do it then.

Is this the part also referred to as the kidney plate?

Yeah I had issues with my power steering, my dash had the steering light on. Problem was the plug on the steering rack was faulty.

Thanks Ichi Ban for coming over and checking the beast out. Sussed out the problem and now it's sorted. I think I may just replace the spark plugs anyway. How many km's are Platinums rated to last for? These would've done maybe 15,000kms?

Along with everything else in this world. I'm another advocate for the T1R's :-)

Check your oil levels. Mine has been doing it too recently and my oil pressure gauge went right down as well. I checked and oil level was quite low. That may be it.

Yeah I know what they sound like, but the headunit can't do jack

I'm too cheap to buy 10-60. You'll never need anything that goes up to 60.

Hrmm i did that... guess I could do it again.. I was wondering when this was gonna be asked for again!

The warehouse had Magnatec cheaper than Repco haha! By about $8!

If you want to remove the speed cut, get a Pivot Speedmeter. 41 Automotive sell then and they have a sale atm

Your PM's have been answered

Spend another couple of hundy and you can get an aftermarket headunit which is sooooo much better than any factory unit, and will integrate with ipods/iphones

Yeah I saw a highlighter green-coloured tanker heading towards Lower Hutt this evening... coud only assume it was a BP 98-carrying tanker.

I dont know if many people on here would know, I certainly dont. However, if you sign up to the forums at http://www.nzicemag.co.nz, lots and lots of car audio nuts there, someone may have an answer for you.

I'm with Rick on this one.. one that I don't have to fix every 6 months.

Cam and crank angle sensors are the same right? If not, which is which? And how do you test them? I know one is on the passengers side of the block at the front. That's the first thing, I thought it may have been, but the CEL doesn't show up with the code for it, it just blinks away normally. I'm gonna have to remove the whole stereo out the boot to get to the fuel pump *sighs* Oh well... these things do happen. At least the car is parked at home and it didn't happen somewhere on the road. Happy about that at least.

So it did tonight. Last time I drove it was on Monday night. Get in tonight, turn it over, no start. It turns over, just doesn't fire. I haven't checked much as I was just pissed off so will probably get to it over the next couple of nights, or more likely the weekend. I did however check for CEL codes but there is none. I have removed the battery terminals to do an ECU reset. I haven't done anything to the car recently for anything to break. The only thing in my routine that has changed is having to use Mobil8000 gas with E10 in it cos 98 is out. And yes there is gas in it now - just under 1/4 tank. Having chatted to a few people, I have some things to check: All fuses Remove the return fuel line and see if fuel comes out. No fuel - fuel pump is stuffed. plugs and coils AFM I have also noticed over the last couple of weeks, it has taken an extra couple of turns before it fired... a sign that something has become not so good? Can anyone else point me in any directions as to what to test? Cheers.

Yeah there should be a harness with a white plug with the 3 x RCA's. The 8650 is a great unit. I used to have one!

AA member?

Any plans to get them made with the big scoop?

Do all the bonnets look the same? For example, the one you just posted up in the Forester section? Can you do (or get) those bonnets for BG5 legacy wagons?

Yep Swindogs comments are pretty much right. The only thing they really check for a cert when you have adjustables is whether the springs are still captive at full stretch. They'll hoist the car up and check for movement. If there is movement, you'll either need to raise it back up, or get some keeper springs that sit on top of the coils. Height of the exhaust off the ground doesn't matter, the lowest structural point of your car is normally the rear diff. I had my car lowered on Teins pretty much as low as it could ever go, and the diff was still 100mm off the ground so it would basically have to have no springs at all to be too low. Once your car is certed, the height from the middle of the rim to the guard is measured. If you change this height within +/- 5% then it's still okay to pass a warrant. Any more than this then you'll need to get it re-certed. For instance, if the measured height is 300mm, then you can raise or lower it 15mm either way with no issues. I did however get warned that the coilovers I had were very, very stiff and it could cause problems with other parts, but it wasn't a certification issue.

Yeah they weren't very hard to do at all. You do need a strong powerbar (1/2" drive minimum), and possibly a decent sized pipe to go over the bar as extra leverage, as the hub nuts can be VERY difficult to budge, if they haven't been undone in a long time. You'll just need to check which CV joint to get as there are a few different kinds, with different spline counts. Your local BNT should know which one will fit. If you/they aren't 100% positive, then get both kinds and return the one you don't use.

This is my favourite Old Skool Subbie Vivio Rallycar Some other Vivio and other old skool subbies: http://viviowrc.tripod.com/id10.html