TT extractors

[drakon]

Just got me a set of extractors for my BG TT and fitted them up.

The standard up-pipe to the secondary has a waste-gate in it, which the extractors didn't have so I've left this off.

What I've noticed is now the primary kicks in a little later but there is absolutely no lag. The secondary kicks in while the primary is at the end of its boost which is nice. Also when I change gear the turbo is already boosting which means I basically have constant boost going on.

Feels like my bros WRX (without the smoke trails ).

Wondering if anyone else has fitted extractors to TT's and what their take is on them?

Also is not having the waste-gate connected going to be bad?

[ADIKT]

there should be a wastegate on the secondary. to controll boost. so it doesnt overboost. wheather it be an internal gate or external. i would look into this more.

[marc]

its not a wategate. Its the actuator for the secondary turbo to actuate the "2 stage" aka second turbo at what ever RPM the ECU decides etc. By removing that with the headers you are now a parellel twin turbo really so both turbos spool at the same time hence the little extra initial lag but no VOD between turbos as factory they spool one after the other creating early spool up of the primary on its own but then the small gap as it allows exhaust gases to the secondary turbo to make it work...

Hope that makes sence lol

[marc]

BTW you would really want to disconnect the vac line to the actuator under your intercooler (and bung the rubber hose end) and it should go quite abit better again as that holds boost from returning to the intake vai stationary compressor wheel of the secondary when only the primary is spooling below 4.5K rpm or whatever it is factory. But now it will be blocking the secondarys compressor outlet till 4.5K rpm....

[drakon]

ok that does make sense actuator is the word i was looking for

I will try disconnecting the hose and see what it does thanks for that.

Am I running a risk of damaging the motor running turbos as parellel?

[marc]

Nah not really, might just be a tad lean (not much at all I would amagine tho) at 4.2K to 4.8K rpm ish but that all depends how much boost its making by that RPM?!

Be good if you have a dyno day in your area some time as for $80 odd you cant go wrong to get a AFR printout and abit of fun/piece of mind lol

Ive seen a few in the past running parallel and have been for ages.

Others here might have different experence but im sure theyl post up if so..

Hows the fuel economy so far?

[drakon]

Haven't really done a full tank yet and cars in getting fresh paint and some body work.

Before I was getting 500ish to the tank with a 2 1/2 " from turbos back though

[Jord]

Do you have a picture of the headers?

My car used to run Syms parallel headers. These were twin-scroll style and equal length so gave awesome top end. Was faster on 11psi than it is with 15psi stock setup now.

However just sticking a set on is not recommended, the TT system is very sensitive and you will completly mess it up by throwing these headers on.

To do it properly you need to remove the secondary actuator and block hoses 5 and 6.

Remove the differential pressure sensor on the firewall and replace with a resistor to stop the CEL from appearing.

Disconnect the hose 1 running to the under IC valve

Bung the secondary BOV to stop it operating.

[drakon]

There's a couple of pics in the trade

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=431469953

When you say replace the diff sensor with a resistor im not to sure what you mean do you have any links or pics? I know the sensor you mean

[Jord]

Yup those are Syms headers. Very nice piece of kit, you will shudder when find out how much they are worth new.

Sorry cant help on the resistor, was never fitted on my car so the CEL was always on. Part of the reason I ditched the headers and went back to standard. It shouldnt be a hard task to do though, auto sparky will know.

[drakon]

I hope more than I paid for them took me a long time to source them also.

Was wondering what you meant by CEL but I just clicked with help from google. Mine doesn't come on( except that darn 66 I've had for 2 years )

[Jord]

Over 2k new + shipping! I sold mine for $500 to a buyer in Aus, so you got a pretty good deal. Mine were in a bit better nick though.

Yeah sorry CEL = check engine light, need to have a stickied thread containing all the abbreviations. I get pretty sick of typing things out in full.

Have you removed the pressure sensor yet? If not then you wont have a CEL but the ECU will be getting rather confused if its left in there.

How many PSI are you getting?

[drakon]

sweet that is a bit of a saving.

Havent removed the sensor yet i didnt actually know about needing to do it but was wondering. Right now ive just taken off the old ones and bolted up the Syms with the actuator not connected to anything.

Standard boost was 15 max before which i seem to have kept. Havent really thrashed it hard but will check all that stuff once back from the painters.