Found and fixed an issue with the RGB LEDs control dropping out. This was due to the pin used this time. The full incase build was pin 26, current test rig was pin 2 and now pin 4. There may have been an issue with power as the LEDs that show the wifi password are white and full brightness so draw 3x more current than when acting as a shift light. They also get toasty warm when full white compared to ambient when showing typical colours.   Finally added a test led function for the custom colour set. Once set in the web interface you can click a button to show those colours love on the display. Since you can only set half the LEDs color as it mirrors each side, when testing it uses the whole display with every other LED blank so it’s easier to interpret color and work out which number each one is.

Ty boon 

Old post. But logging the twin turbo the ECV on my bh5 has control on the boost of primary at high duty cycle of the primary boost control , I'm remapping my ECU at the moment, but logging this setup is very different to what people think or think they know 

Learned that wire isn’t always copper anymore. for a project I got some 3.5mm audio cables to cut in half to make the wiring have nice quick change sensors..   Since I needed 30+ cables I ordered so that looked like thick cable but they were cotton braid over tiny wire. Turned out the wire was copper coated aluminium and is absolutely s***  to solder. Wire is not even thick enough to have insulation on each wire just enamel coating.     For the car projects all the wire I use has braided shielded which seems to only come in oxygen free copper OFC. The braid helps prevent electrical noise but more importantly prevents damage when pulled through the back of the dash etc.

Brilliant and yeah Im not looking for the number. I just want it to feel and truely BE around the 300whp mark.