boostin

Hard to finish a race with a snapped axle. Even a tight mechanical lsd has some give. A welded different doesn't. And where he may have been getting 4 races out of a set of semis, that may now only be 3. It's something to consider, and up to him to decide if the risk and costs are worth it to him. You can help, or you can be a cock.

Welding it will put a heap more strain on your cvs and axles, and increased tyre wear.

Did they have a key? Or just dragged it onto a truck? No easy way around the factory immobiliser.

There must be some seriously rough techs out there. Our apprentice has pre facelift BP/BL down to under an hour for dash removal, remove and disassemble passenger airbag, fit new inflator, and refit to vehicle. And no, you don't fail a WOF if it hasn't been completed. Yet. It will happen though, probably end of next year.

Agreed. They may be worth a bit if there is proof they are genuine RS-RA pistons and you find the right buyer, but otherwise they're fancy ashtrays.

Pics help too.

If you're talking about the rear muffler itself, yeah rock on into Pitstop, choose your replacement muffler and get them to weld it on. For a cat-back or complete system, you can buy kits and simply bolt them on yourself. You just need the ability to get the car in the air a foot or so to give you access, and a reasonable quality socket set and spanners.

Pmd you

I'm in Pukekohe if you want to check out my manual 3.0R.

Where are you based?

Correct. 8 way power adjustable, but no memory. If Mr Anal cert guy doesn't like bullets, solder and heatshrink it. Bullet it later on if you want to pull the seats out for whatever reason. If they're connected and the light is off, I don't think they will fail it.

Technically autos do actually flat shift. The throttle doesn't close. The ignition timing is retarded to reduce torque, shift applied, and timing brought back to correct angle to bring power and torque back up.

Whenever I hear rug doctor, I think gynaecologist....

First registered in 09. I'm sure that the older I get, the faster the days (years) go by!

An airbag is an airbag. Worst case chop the plugs off and bullet it. I take that to mean that if the vehicle is 14yo or older, it can be removed and LVV certified, but under 14 years cannot remove. My interpretation anyway.

https://vehicleinspection.nzta.govt.nz/virms/in-service-wof-and-cof/general/vehicle-interior/frontal-impact-airbags Needs LVV cert the way I read that.

Then you sold it to some sucker aye. And it was more than 6 years ago. Late 2011 I took custody.

Orange light is rear fog. Subaru's don't have an idiot light for daytime runners. No, Subaru have no option to activate DRL's. +1 for getting a decent aftermarket kit wired in properly. This means the lamps must turn off when the headlamps are on.

Agreed, I find this a bit strange also. @THUNDA, I don't condone drilling the thermostat, but it should still have had some effect. Drilling them usually just masks issues somewhere else, like heater cores.

The alternators are controlled by the ECU to reduce engine load and fuel consumption. They charge when there is an electrical load like lights or AC on, or at a (very low) preset battery voltage. There is possibly an ECU update for constant charge. I recall when the Impreza came out with variable charging we had lots of elderly customers with dead batteries because they'd drive it once a week to the shops and back, in daylight with the AC off, so the damn things would barely charge.

Drilling the thermostat should have made a reasonable difference. Have you tested it to make sure it opens at the right temperature, and opens fully? Might be worth banging a new one in there. 78 degree is stock, not 82 or 88.

Hard to diagnose faults over the internet. Best you get it to someone who knows them asap.

Tried different thermostats, coolants etc?

Just a word of warning. If it's been too hot, the alloy goes soft and it's trash. You'll forever have issues with head gaskets etc. Any good engine reconditioners should be able to hardness test them for you.

Don't forget rear sway bar mount stiffeners. They're prone to snapping the mounts off the subframes with bigger rear sway bars.