IZichard

Well it has only been 45 ish mins of driving so far. I feel like the re002s are the saving grace here, it really takes a lot to get them to break loose on flat dry road (today). I might change my mind after some rain. I reckon with the sti front bar too it is going to be a really nice package.

Put a whiteline 22mm adjustable rear swaybar on after work, then went for a bit of a hoon. I see now why everyone raves about these, greatly reduced body roll and really helps the back end rotate when you throw it hard into a corner. I left it on the middle setting for now.

Ah yes, they are two bolt on legacy rears aren't they. Not like the 3 bolt rears on Impreza.

Haven't got torque specs but tighten bottom bolts to 'F*ckin tight,' and top bolts to 'snug with 3/8th ratchet once car is sitting on its own weight,' don't overtighten. Edit: ~130 ft lbs for bottom two 14.5 ft lbs for 3 on top hat.

Post up how this fits if you order it, I'm curious.

Not bad to look at! A couple days ago they had snow on them.... they aren't even that high (comparatively) and it is supposed to be summer. Mumble mumble climate change mumble....

If it were me I'd use the ones that came with the sti bar. They were designed to withstand the load put on them by that size swaybar. Read this: https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1152714 scroll down to the part about reasons to get endlinks

I have aftermarket links and a stock bar, 19mm iirc. I didn't really notice any difference. I only got them as they were cheap on trademe and I am switching to a larger aftermarket swaybar and the plastic links are much more prone to deflect and/or snap. Probably talking very poor performance returns on the dollar with the oem bar even if it is an sti part. Are the rear links still the plastic 'C ' links on your chassis? I'm not familiar.

"The kit utilises a high tensile extruded alloy link fitted with ultra low compliance synthetic elastomer bushings. Critical hardware is replaced with high tensile components to match the higher loads. The result is much more precise & direct roll control with up to 25% more effective bar rate available at lower wheel deflection points. This does NOT mean an outright increase in your bar rate but rather a quickening of its effect allowing more bar rate earlier. Link shape & bush mounts are designed to allow maximum sway bar articulation to ensure full suspension travel while acting more directly under vertical load. Standard length maintains correct sway bar operation." http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_detail4.php?part_number=KLC26&sq=28351

Some beauties and a few horrors in here

I was under that impression too but I can't find any definitive answer. Is it a terrible idea to just put it back in anyway and see if any codes pop up?

I understand your confusion, I have only seen worn/loose belts do that before. They slip/squeal until you give it a rev then they grip. However that is nothing like the noise you are describing. Could it be some sort of harmonic frequency issue with something that is spinning at a specific rpm (cold start rpm). Can you recreate it when warm by holding it at cold start rpm?

Can you get a video of the noise? I had the same thought as you, belt or loose pulley but if you have already checked those I'm not sure. Not wining sound of an tired P/S pump is it?

Looks good! Which ones did you end up getting? Are they steel?

I have a catless 3inch downpipe for my v7. What do people usually do about the sensor towards the rear flange of the downpipe. Is it a sensor for monitoring the catalytic converter in the downpipe or is it for fuel mixture changes in the ecu? Is it best to keep it? Delete it and use a resistor? Any help would be appreciated.

How easy is it to rebuild bilsteins? Is it something that can be done diy or do you have to send them to somewhere that does it?

I agree that it is a less efficient design than one made specifically for the wagon. Having felt it though I think the bar would bend before the mounts would, they are pretty hefty. I'll have to take it round some corners and see if there is any difference.

Yeah that's because it is the one off the sedan, hence has to be moved down a little to fit. I doubt it would make a difference though.

What do you think is wrong with the design? It is an STI piece from a sedan. It is very solid, i'm just not sure if the chassis even needs stiffening there.

Nursed a hangover by putting on something easy. Keen to see if it has a noticeable effect since the wagon is a little loose in the back or if is just a shiny paperweight.

Some pipe showed up in the mail today.

Try Partsouq Don't sell it in a kit but not to hard to find all the relevant bits for quite a lot cheaper. That's where I got the parts for my Cambelt

We have a set of those at work and I have used it with success a couple of times. You typically have to hammer it onto the nut/bolt and use a vice + furious wiggling to get the bolt out afterwards but they do grip the bolt very well.

To my understanding it is, as joker said, a tough WOF. You will likely have to replace brake rotors and pads at all corners for compliance, even if there is still heaps of life left in them. Maybe go to talk to someone at the nearest place the can perform a compliance check and ask them what to expect.