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pl0x last won the day on August 10 2018

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  1. Fairly sure the factory yellows are 440cc @ 80% IDC and 550cc @ 100% IDC. You can get aftermarket 880cc side feeds. What are your power goals?, if you want factory "new" injectors i'd have thought 2nd hand side feed yellows would be cheap and get them cleaned/flow tested
  2. Hadn't really considered the venturi in my suggested tests above. It would be nice to get some tests on if it is the return line being too restrictive, or heat from returned fuel entering the cradle, or a combo. You're right though, considering the venturi it gets close to the point of CBF testing and just pay to know a bolt in part is going to solve it.
  3. Do we know what in the factory hanger creates the restriction? Sounds like a combo of heat and restriction to me
  4. @Niran Did your's show issues specifically when on the dyno after a number of runs (heat related), or did it at idle also? It would be interesting to see a test of: Removing the cradle altogether and just having the hanger (Some of the older models didn't have cradles, mine use to fuel surge under 1/4 tank on track. Keep it above half if it's a street car that goes to the track?). Keeping the factory cradle but modifying to allow more fuel flow through (again may allow more surge issues but fine for a street car). Keep factory cradle and route the return out of the cradle
  5. Is it just me or is there smoke coming from somewhere at 21-22 seconds? Sounds kind of like an exhaust leak.
  6. vf38 are the ones that crap out a lot, TD04 twin scroll variant are ok Yea ID of legacy is smaller
  7. Yea, wouldn't want to put it up in the main viewing area over the bridge. Just the view from the "good" parking last year was pretty good and saw a few people watch from there, wouldn't be a bad spot if you could put up some shade but think we'll leave it.
  8. Me and a few mates are heading up Sat. Should be 6 or so cars, hopefully we'll get let into the good parking . Are you allowed to take gazebos? even if it's to put in the good parking area. Looks like it's going to be FFFing hot. Edit: Looking at the event info, that's a no
  9. Is this what you are after? Probably excessive to import one brake clip but Partsouq have them for $2.38NZD + shipping as one option
  10. I assume you are on factory boost control and there isn't a boost tap somewhere? On factory boost control you shouldn't be close to hitting boost cut, so i'd assume a fault somewhere, possibly a leak in the vac lines between turbo/boost controller/waste gate. As a test, try run waste gate pressure (Vac line direct from turbo to waste gate). Manual boost control/boost taps generally cause spikes but could work as a cheap fix
  11. Black is generally unburnt fuel, could be a bit rich on cold start. Mine burns oil (bluey/white smoke) on first start up after sitting for a few weeks/months, with VTA catch can. I doubt it's blowby but you could un-plumb it from the intake and test. and leave it un-plumbed, only thing you need it plumbed in is for cert I believe. I need to run my vent to under the car rather than next to the cabin air inlet .
  12. Fairly sure the GC auto spray was pretty basic, something like based on throttle position (which is pretty useless imo). If you're getting it tuned on a link or the likes, you could hook the sprayer control to an ecu output and have the ecu control it based on just about anything. I would have thought air intake temp and speed would be a good place to start?
  13. I haven't found too much detail on exactly how it is controlled, gather what you can from here: I agree I wouldn't be running WM daily, but have it on a switch for drives/events etc. switch could also turn on higher timing/boost and pull fuel. I think for a road car water meth is better than e85. No issues with it sitting/having to flush or going off, no need to upgrade fuel system completely. But without a good fail-safe(s) or knock control, it can be engine gone if it fails. I've got knock control plus a pressure sensor pre WM nozzle, which needs to be over a certain pressure to trigger the higher boost map and pull fuel. Also hooked up to a light if it isn't meeting the pressure.
  14. I was thinking a fairly simple pre turbo non pumped set up like what the green brothers seem to have a lot of success with - just pressurize the water meth tank with boost pressure. Niran's set up would do it though, and have the added benefit of higher pressure (in theory more atomisation & smaller/no droplets for the compressor) But yea, imo you would want safety/knock control in place in case the WM fails.
  15. Does the new ecu have knock control? Any thought of pre turbo water meth to see what you can squeeze the td04 out to?