pl0x

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pl0x last won the day on August 6

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  1. Wait, no return fuel even on prime or just with ign on? Mine only flows on key on (prime). Bridge the fuel pump relay if you want constant flow (pin 30 to 87). I'd try crank it over a few times, then pull all 4 plugs & see if you think they are covered in petrol, take photos and post them up. Check each one for spark, be ready to replace them. My bet is on plugs assuming fuel is flowing out the return on prime
  2. Mine is set up with the two non baffled tee'd together, other two and crank case breather to the catch can which vents to atmosphere. It stinks, I plan on running a tube down so it vents under the car. Didn't only the later blocks (grb onwards) have the other crank case port, which you would tee and plumb the non baffled ports to.
  3. General rule of thumb is auto driveshaft from the same chassis fits, but other shafts may also fit. I can tell you a be5 auto driveshaft does not fit bc5 with 6sp.
  4. Photo of said cam lobe? For one cam lobe id be asking Franklin cams or similar the cost to repair it. My understanding is cam journal clearances are set individually from factory so the same spec cam from a different engine may not as simple as bolt in. When I was looking around there was a set of factory STI quad avcs cams for $300, it may have been from PBMS? I didn't end up getting/using
  5. Pretty sure this is right The Americans cut up the factory n/a headers and make them UEL (purely for sound), worth a google
  6. Pretty much this, for both engines imo
  7. When maintained and tuned correctly for the fuel they run, they shouldn't really have issues at factory power levels.
  8. I was thinking along similar lines, and that it had all the ingredients to have a long lasting engine, until I read the E-tune part.
  9. Are H6 6sp's rear diffs actually 3.9? I thought they were 3.54 as the center diff has a 1:1.1 transfer.
  10. If that cheap 7163 is gone or doesn't suit, I'd go G660 https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2875826&page=2
  11. Have you cleaned up inside face of the turbine housing? One of my garrett's turbine housings i had to give the turbine housing a light sand as it was too rusty to get back together.
  12. Bugger, but yea not much good if in worst case it won't start it. If you can get a refund I'd be tempted to try a Repco one with the capacitor. Side note, what ampage cables does everyone have? Generally the jumper cables I've had are too s*** to start drained battery without leaving them connected for a while, but borrowed ones from a workshop and it fires first pop. I'm very sceptical about $20 "1000a" trademe ones when Repco 750a ones are ~$130
  13. Just looked up which ones I've got: PBJS12000-RD - POWERALL JUMPSTARTER POWERBANK 400A 12000MAH 12V PBJS16000-WS - POWERALL JUMPSTARTER POWERBANK 600A 16000MAH 12V WITH SPEAKER (been replaced under warranty as it stopped accepting charge) REPCO ULTRA CAPACITOR JUMPSTARTER 12V 1200A As mentioned, repco one seems the best at holding charge, although it is the newest. I generally go to start the car, find 2 or 3 are flat and end up waiting 15min for the capacitor to charge or get jumper leads. Admittedly most of the time i'm trying to start an old v8 bmw which keeps draining it's battery.
  14. I've got 3 of these smaller jump starters, different brands etc. TBH none of them are as good as a battery and decent jumper leads. Every time I go to use they seem to be out of juice, just from sitting in vehicles with no use. One is a Repco one with a capacitor & it seems to be the best, if the battery isn't super flat it'll jump a vehicle at least once. But otherwise you have to wait 10-15min for the capacitor to charge, once that's charged it seems to start every time. Maybe I've had a bad run but they seem kind of pointless if you have to charge them all the time.
  15. Need more details. Wasted spark? Id guess it would be ignition wiring