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G B last won the day on January 28

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About G B

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  • Drives :
    Subaru WRX STi
  1. I'll check them out. Thanks.
  2. While I like the sunroof in my Premium model, I don't think I've ever get one retro fitted. I can't imagine it being cheap and then you'd need all the electrics to go with it along with a new headlining. And, as you say, a high risk of leaking. IMHO, best option would be to fit some monsoon strips to the windows and wind them down a little to keep the air flowing throgh the cabin. Much cheaper in the long run.
  3. First scheduled service on the STi today by Winger Greenlane..
  4. How good is the film where it is in place?
  5. Anyone had any experience with any of the paint chip films available on the market? Just thinking it miht be a worthwhile investment for the front bumper at least?
  6. Slight delay as they were waiting on Subaru to deliver a new front lip. Steve Nuich Panel Beaters have done an awesome job and I highly recommend them (also fixed my wife's car after some lowlife bedly dented the door on her 5 month old Jeep ). Car is better than before as they've also tidied up a few small stone chips And no extra ks on the clock so they totally respectful of the car as well as professional. Random Q. As well as the Tiida, I also had a Wingroad for a couple of hours this morning while they fitted the splitter. Both were autos but neither had any form of engine temp gauge. Is this common on auto's these days?
  7. Goodridge braided hoses with Motul 660 fluid. Can't upload photos of rear as having some photobucket issues Huge thanks to AJ @Subirex Automotive for doing the work. Top bloke and it's no wonder he comes so highly recommended PB working again intermittently, but will start using IMGUR in th future now I've just created an account. Here ar the two pics from the rear...
  8. I'll let you know when I pick it up tomorrow morning. Still have a 2hr drive home tonight in the Tiida to look forward to...
  9. Love the Nismo idea Fortunately, the car is with a reputable panelbeater. Plus I've photographed the odo so will know if anyone has been naughty as there is no reason at all that the car needs to he driven any more than a few meters....
  10. Thankfully for just a week! Had a meet and greet with a Possum earlier in the week and while the pesky critter lost, still did some damage to the bumper. Front splitter is also cracked so the STi went into the panel beaters this morning and the Tiida will be an alternative to walking. Not looking forward to the 2hr drive to work tomorrow :crying:
  11. Don't mind a drive to Pukekohe if it's worth a trip there. What is stech's reputation like?
  12. Should really get a proper alignment done on my '16 STi, especially as I've just clocked 10k. Question us where to go? Looking for a fast foad set up which takes into account NZs roads. No point going to most high street places as the alignment is only as good as the operator and they'll probably be looking at stock settings. Any recommendations as to where in AKL you will get someone who really knows their stuff?
  13. Perfect day for working on the car and with a few hours free until our grandson is dropped off for the afternoon, time to get cracking with some much needed upgrades..... Safety first. After placing securely on a pair of stands, the wheels come off... The 2 x 19mm bolts securing the caliper to the hub and loosened off... Next step is to remove the pain retaining pins. These have two small spring clips keeping them in place. Simply pull out with some needle nose pliers and slide out the pins. A small G clamp is used to squeeze the pads to push the pistons back into the calipers... The pads are then simply slid out from the caliper with their backing plates (take note of how the plates are positioned for refitting)... With the pads out, the calipers can now be removed. I used a small bunjee cord to hang the caliper from the coil spring to prevent damage to the brake hose... The rotor is then removed from the hub. If it's stuck on due to corrosion, etc, use a small bolt as in the below pic to help 'push' the rotor off the hub. I simply used the bolt which holds the brake hose bracket to tyhe strut as it's the same thread... First part complete... Protective film applied in the factory is removed from the new rotor using brake cleaner. Just be careful not to get any on the paint! The replacement rotor slides straight onto the hub and the caliper is bolted back into place. I'm using Dixcel ES pads from Japan. I have no experience with them, but have read good reviews so happy to give them a try. They are essebntially a fast street pad - perfect for me as I'm not intending on any track use. Only thing of note at this stage is the lack of a pad wear indicator. The Brembo pads have a mechanical indicator which squeals when the pads gets below a certain thickness. Will need to keep a close eye on these when they start to wear down. Instructions say 300+ km bedding in period of 'normal' road driving. So will need to drive like a nanna for a couple of weeks Fitment of the pads is the reverse of removal essentially. I used some copper grease on the backing plates to help prevent any squealing... dba paint 3 strips on their rotors. These are temperature indicators and change to when a certain temp is reached - Red - changes to white above 610°C Orange - changes to yellow above 560°C Green - changes to white above 430°C And completed... I also did the rears, but was pushed for time so didn't take some many pics. 17mm caliper bolts at the rear - pads use the same retaining pin set up. As my car is relatively new, I had no issues removing the rotors but you may need to adjust the handbrake shoes on higher mileage cars probably? Will be a couple of weeks at least before I can report back on how they are going. By then, I should also have some braided lines fitted and some Motul 660 fluid to replace the stock stuff.
  14. Straight from the factory. All 4 wheels are similar....