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I'm not really sure of what you're asking here? If you want big boost and big torque, you are going to need better heads and cams. Ironically I've got a set for sale which have been worked heavily going to a 92.5mm piston, you'll likely want i beam rods for that sort of boost. you'd have no choice but to build your auto or go manual as you'll just push straight through your converter and likely cook the box. Pinning/dowling the mains and line honing would be a must. but I'm going to reiterate on the head side of things even if you don't buy mine, you will need head work done and will never achieve what you want on stock heads.

That’s only true if the contact patch of the tyre is completely flat on the road. Toe exaggerates the wear pattern from the camber. If you have 3 degrees of negative camber on a straight flat road doesn’t matter toe in or toe out you will have inside edge wear. In an overly simplified explanation the camber decides where the wear will occur, the toe decides how fast/significant the wear will be. The exact specifics of wheel alignments are a lot more complicated with toe curves, vehicle loading and tyre rollover. Everything about wear changes once you start pushing the car around corners. Like @boon said even with a perfect alignment with a Subaru you will probably end up with some inside edge wear on the fronts. They are a bit front heavy and you need to run some static negative in the front for the car to drive well in the bends so it compromises the wear a little. Can you post up the wheel alignment sheet?

They over boost on steep hills in high gears as well. Thats the only time I got mine to over boost. Open road on a reasonable hill in 5-6th. Where you really should shift down a gear.