bobbyjimmy

I didn\'t say it was. If I wanted better, I would of bought a Nissan Leaf. Then killed myself.

Yep. Rear makes the most difference. Might have to look into the AVO (etc) strengtheners too thou.

Night and day. \'i\' is actually semi-usable, only use it on highways thou. \'S\' is good enough to hop in and drive with enough power to easily overtake without having to go down a gear or 2. \'#S\' is awesome, almost instant throttle and wants to get driven, put it on manual mode (paddle shift) and can get better fuel economy than in \'S\' and auto too. Fuel is sitting at 11.2 per 100 - city, bit of highway, normal driving and \'spirited\' driving.

Not mine, but know him. Raptor headers, 3rd cat delete, two 100 cel cats to replace the stock, X-Force mid pipe and Ganador (s/steel) mufflers. He said it\'s abit too raspy, not much drone. FWIW, I put an X-Force cat back system on the wifes 08 3.0 R B with 5EAT - was waaay to loud and droned. Put the stock mid pipe back in and left the X-Force mufflers on, is good now. Car has been Kido tuned aswell and it does that VW DSG \'pop\' on gear changes now.

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=885825 Biggest thread ever on wheel studs - standard and extended.

Keen to see how this turns out. Have a part number/link to the touchscreen?

I\'ll assume Whiteline lateral links (front and rear #KTA124) and possibly the Megan Racing/Hard Race camber arms (centre #MRS-SU-0510/6854)

Hole/perished fuel filler hose.

Nup, not sealed separately. Either Multitrax (mineral, good) or Syntrax (synthetic, better).

I took the subframe out when I put in the Whiteline set. Cut out the old ones and made up a puller type thing to get the new ones in using a rattle gun. I\'ve seen another guy just chop the s*** out of the old bushes with what ever he could find, then used a hack saw to cut through the old race/case till it could be knocked out, then used Powerflex "PFR69-123BLK" (2 piece bush) so he didn\'t have to press the new ones in.

Saw this ages ago; http://www.rs25.com/forums/f105/t75177-diy-power-steering-delete.html

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=885825

4 speed auto\'s just use Dex 3 and can be \'power flushed\'. 5 speed auto\'s use Tansmax J and I would not \'power flush\' it. Just disconnect the return oil cooler line (rear most on the LH chassis rail) and flush - use something to measure how much has come out so you know how much to put back in.

Couple of questions; * Are you using o2 and A/F sensors? I assume so, but can\'t see any in the pics, but might be on the top side of the exhaust. Standard ones or aftermarket? And how many (i.e 2 x o2 and 2 x A/F like stock)? * How did you wire up the compressor and any issues with the RPM sensor in it?

Mine just showed up. Looks good and feels good, i.e not a chinese rip-off. Came in proper packaging with a tax invoice and all. Holds my Samsung phone and a slimish camera easily. It sticks to nearly anything - a plastic folder, an LCD computer monitor etc. When the phone or camera was in the holder and attached to the folder, you can actually pick up the folder (full of random crap, weighs maybe 3kg's...) by the holder - so it sticks well. Think I might buy another one...

You can buy the same thing form H.K for less than 1/2 the price; http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=140568149900&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT

The lines on your car will work and fit. I used the standard lines when I got 4 pots. Then used the same lines when I got Brembo's. If you want braided, get some to suit your car, not the calipers.

You need one that looks like this; http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/260669982278?hlp=false

Could also get the Whiteline KCA375 bushes which are poly and add caster. http://whiteline.com.au/product_detail.php?part_number=KCA375

http://forum.liberty.asn.au/ and http://www.subyclub.com/

Here's a thread from NASIOC (US Impreza site) with ALOT of info on what clears Brembo's with and without spacers. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=448097 And only 17 x 9 that clear Brembo's without spacers. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2136684 Any ROTA wheel under 9" wide, has no concave to it, i.e the face is flat.

18" x 9.5" +38 and a 5mm spacer in the front (so +33 in the front) to clear the Brembo's. So add a note somewhere that 18" x 9.5" Grids NEED a 5mm spacer to clear Brembo's.

Here you go - ordinary picture, but you get the idea; Oh, and it's lower now after rolling and pulling all the guards.

I had one of mine seize on the weekend - it was the top locking collar/nut on the last coilover, every other one wound on/off fine. I hit it with a cold chisel to put a groove it then cut it off with a grinder. I obviously need a new collar/nut now...

Kartboy Dogbones are the easiest way to mount the calipers - but you need to grind/file them where the calipers touch the Dogbones, because they are actually made for 2 pots. You don't need to grind much, only a couple of mm, which doesn't affect them. Rear rotors, DBA make "conversion" rotors so you keep the 170mm handbrake, but they increase the disc size to suit the Brembo's. Part numbers; Street Series non slotted - DBA2657 x 2 - http://dba.com.au/products/DBA2657 Street Series slotted - DBA2657SL and DBA2657SR - http://dba.com.au/products/DBA2657SL and http://dba.com.au/products/DBA2657SR 4000 Series non slotted - DBA42657 x 2 - http://dba.com.au/products/DBA42657 4000 Series slotted - DBA42657SL and DBA42657SR - http://dba.com.au/products/DBA42657SL and http://dba.com.au/products/DBA42657SR I've got the grinded/filed Kartboy's on the rear of mine with the Street Series slotted on the rear and everything bolted up fine and works well.