Munkvy

Stock STI clutch is more than enough for those sort of power levels. I have run 230kw at the wheels and semi slicks with plenty of 7000rpm launches without any issues with the clutch. Anything more aggressive than stock is likely to make another part of the drivetrain your weak point... Which isn't a good thing!

**** that's been ages! I remember when you were in Chch and building it. What is the setup these days?

I don't understand? What do you want?

JohnnyNZ - definitely not, has a Commodore race car and a couple of other cars. But no Lotus sadly! He is from Auckland. Tony - finished 17th I think? But this was very much the shakedown for the car (new motor), it has enough power to smoke up the inside wheel in 3rd, which is bad, as it has no LSD. So we toasted the front tyres at Taupo and I was losing quite a lot of time on corner exit! Also had some small electrical issues, a drive through penalty for pit lane speeding (turns out if you try hard enough you can defeat the pit speed limiter!), a fuel spill while fueling up and a strut problem, but fortunately the car held together in the actual race, it's quite factory as far as mechanicals are concerned. Just lots of weight taken out and the worlds largest exhaust for such a small motor! We were 5 seconds off the red DC2 Integra, which was our benchmark, so figure that's not too bad. Just yeah, if we are a bit tidier with our pitwork and don't get in trouble we should have done ok in our class. But really an LSD will transform the car, if Adam decides he wants to get one at some stage.

Yeah good experience and all our mechanical dramas happened in the practice and qualifying, including a strut falling apart! So we got a little lucky..! Good fun, but will definitely need ear plugs for the last round at Hampton Downs. Will you be there too? That was the Spoon Honda I am guessing?

I was recently told by a mate running D2s that you can go to Redline and they sell complete replacement shocks for very little money. Worth asking at least.

Ben (BazzaNZ) had one, not sure if he still does though? although may be too late and you have sorted this?

Not my car, but still had fun. Drove this round in circles in Taupo last weekend at the endurance race: 3 hour race with a mate, so did 1.5 hours each. Good learning experience as haven't done much door to door stuff before.

aRSe garage... Hmm...

http://www.palmside.co.nz/product_pcid_15671.html I have those. Strong wheels, not overly light though. Can get them in a couple of different colours and are surprisingly cheap in that size.

For the other rally competitors, what events are you planning on doing? Might bump into you. Richard - I figure you are doing all of NZRC, but not things like Taranaki?

Hillclimbs/Sealed Sprints Track days/Intermarques/R&T at Manfield Targa Did some gravel previously, but can\'t afford to run two complete different setups for the car, plus I was way too slow. So sticking to tarmac this year. Might try my luck again next year. Also have an E30 beemer which I use for sprints and trackdays too, much more rewarding car to drive fast as it is much scarier on the limit!

If you do go BD/BG, watch for rust. Mine has got it in anywhere that has been hit by gravel so round the guards for example. But also above the windscreen and round the sunroofs seem to be common spots too. And for a sedan I imagine they could have water pool in the boot and have potential rust? (I have a wagon, so dunno on this). Other than that, get one with turbos that don\'t whine if possible and thrash it till it blows a bearing or turbo, then set it on fire!

Sorry to butt in, but crap that\'s dear...Could you wire an LED to Knock Sensor? Or cheap shift light to knock sensor? Edit: Or CEL to Knock Sensor? That is not a bad price for what it is. it works amazing and nothing you can make easily or buy cheaper comes close and is easy to set up. Plug in and auto calibrates. when it lights up red you have knock. very reliable I ran an early one of these a few years back before they started marketing it and found a tendancy for it to pickup some form of vibration at a particular point of the rev range, did it on 2 different motors. No idea if they refined the setup since then, but given there was no actual knock it was a little frustrating as it flashed at a certain point in the revs in most gears, so I tended to ignore it! Of course this can also be impacted by the location of the knock sensor.

Give Al a call, he is often there in the weekend, so if you ask he is more likely to do it. Just remember he will charge more money for an alignment than a standard place, which is only fair given he is quite an expert when it comes to Subarus. I have found that the Tony\'s branches in town are all quite receptive to be fair. They have setup my beemer and WRX alignments to suit my requests each time. To be fair, you don\'t want a massively aggressive alignment for Mt Vic, it\'s a bumpy dangerous road, so anything extreme will probably help encourage your car to try flying.

Got some Brembos. They really are massive compared to the 4 pots!

I don\'t follow what you are trying to achieve? What is machining the CV going to do for you? Are you wanting more lock, a wider track or something else? I think you are saying you want more lock? But why do you need more lock on a slippery surface, get the rear to rotate and you need less lock... Adding more lock is just going to increase the chances of blowing a CV apart when applying power with the steering locked all the way in one direction?

In my experience both cars have their benefits. I found a GC8 to be more nimble, but also more likely to swap ends on me on gravel. Weight is neither here nor there in a road car, only really relevant when you are pushing the car hard - ie track, rally or sprint etc. I once managed to come 2nd in a national tarmac rally in a Legacy (nothing to do with skill, just a reliable car back then). Third was also a Legacy. So they have ability if you want to race them, just expect to be starting off with a disadvantage over a lighter/more nimble GC8. Marty Smith has done very well at beating a variety of Evo\'s and WRX\'s on gravel over the years in his Legacy, however it is a well setup car. If all you want is a road car to enjoy, buy the car that fits your budget, makes you grin when you drive it and is in mechanically the best condition, then enjoy it. Who cares which is technically better, it doesn\'t matter when you aren\'t normally comparing it to the other car anyway does it?

Car ability versus results. Ie lap times or overall event position. But I can see what you mean, I wasn\'t very clear. Must be getting old!

Beats never getting to use their car as they never finish doing stuff to it!

Sam you would be in the category of having learnt a few things, but you already know that... What sump do you run anyway and have you been back to Manfield since learning about Subaru oiling issues there? Loren, that would depend on who you are comparing to and whether you compare apples to apples (ie both in same car class). I seem to remember the last time we turned up at an event and competed in comparable cars that the faster person wasn\'t you... I am also quite accepting of getting beaten by pussies in faster cars, that\'s the reality of racing, often the cheque book is the key to going faster. And I never said I was in the third category of skilled people! Just that I am mean on my car and break shit. And I have never called you a pussy I might add. Sometimes a little rude, but I expect that! And thanks Al, that is why I recommended people talk to you...

I feel I need to add that the driver is at least 50% of the equation when it comes to breaking engines due to oiling issues. Some people have a lot of reliability as frankly they are pussies and don\'t drive fast enough to break them. Others (myself included if I am honest) drive poorly and often break things. Then others drive hard and well and learn from their experiences and build systems to suit. The third category is who I would take advice from. I would personally listen to someone like Al Maclennan as he knows his shit. I would also seek advice from someone like Albaru, or Tony on this forum, who both have more experience racing Subaru\'s than the rest of us combined. As for what I run, tried a Macbilt one second hand, but had issues as someone had damaged the sump itself (leaks mainly). However never had oiling issues while running it. I currently run a KillerBee sump and have not managed to break it, but only done 1 rally and 3 sprints on that motor. Which is not really enough to develop a verdict yet.

I don\'t see anywhere that says that\'s a production box. I had assumed they went dogbox in the factory housing, but don\'t know for sure. As it\'s older than 20 years would be eligible to bring in just like an R32 GTR etc is. Pretty depressing reading looking at the results section of that page! Pretty much a list of DNF\'s, rather than results!

Why not just buy one in NZ? There is occasionally some that pop up, and understandably they often come up with broken boxes/engines, making them nice and cheap. Or just start with a FWD BFMP(?) and modify that over time? There is a conversion you can do to Evo engine/drivetrain, which while not cheap is a good way to make the car substantially better. There is also a semi popular conversion to GT4 Celica box which is far, far stronger. There is a guy in Palmy who I know who does this conversion. Not overly cheap, but effective. Ohh and that article is a bit BS, the GTX didn\'t have that many gearbox issues in the WRC, as it didn\'t run standard gearboxes (no one did in Group A). It was mainly the lack of power, being a 1.6L up against the Celica and the awesome Integrale that both had a well developed and powerful 2L motor.

Isnt a boring stock TT legacy 160fkw odd whereas a GTB or the like 206fkw odd? I have a boring stock TT GTB (BG5), 160wkw on a dynapack dyno a few years ago. Stock exhaust and everything.