Munkvy

Tuned by STi, or a sticker and wheels? And is that possibly the worst brake to wheel size ever?

I could make it easier and just sell you mine if you want, I have no use for them. Front kit is 26297FE010, rear is 26697FE000.

Just put your chassis code in partsouq and it will give you the seal kit code? Or are you wanting to buy non-Subaru ones?

How you define 30% stronger? What does that mean?

Completely agree, I wouldn't go near a race track these days without a baffled sump and a decent catch can setup. Just not worth the risk given the cost to rebuild a motor vs buying a sump and catch can. Especially in an expensive later model WRX where the engines aren't exactly a $50 pick a part job. Plenty of people have run bearings on road tyres too at HD, so if you aren't running a bearing on a stock sump you are either not driving fast enough or you are lucky.

I bought a V8 Brembo seal kit from their recently, looking at Partsouq it was $168USD incl shipping. Which is quite a bit for a bunch of seals, which I have since realised I didn't need!

Thanks! There isn't a huge amount on now for a bit, my next event probably won't be till May now? Well BMW is getting caged, so might do some stuff in that instead as I don't want to take WRX to the track, it never seems to survive!

Just straight 3" pipe. Sounded better with EJ20G heads though! Loren, I was a little too consistent, launch got worse each run but made up for it further up the hill, but times didn't improve really all day! PS glad to hear car is behaving now.

Yup, first run of the day was a great launch, then every run after that got worse as the rubber on the start line got thicker (the launch above was 3rd or 4th). That's admittedly only using 6500rpm, but when I set it up it was good. But yeah, next time I will try 7k and see if that's any better. Loren, yup sure. Cos there was 2 seconds more in my ability! Another 50kw though and I would have aimed higher (currently only 179).

Thanks, straight pipe makes Subaru ownership worthwhile!

I gave the WRX a launch or two up a hill here in Wellington: [video=youtube;k167QjCNnnE] Managed third overall, even with a rather grippy surface making getting a good launch tricky:

I did the same, added some ducting around the radiator to keep air going through radiator and saw both peak ECT drop and IAT consistently lower, both cruising and racing.

Ahh good effort! Hardest bit with ducting is getting it to attach to the backing plate, requires a bit of cutting and trial by error. You can overfill the engine, but it won't save your engine when you go round the last corner at HD, even Evo's run bearings around that corner...

Did the pads, rotors or fluid die? What happened when they died exactly? EBC Yellow will survive a bit more heat before they go off yeah, as they are designed as a light race pad. Ultimate's I believe are more a dual road and track use. But Ultimate is more likely to be reasonably priced so probably a good starting point as you are on road tyres. If this is a car that is not used on the road, I would suggest putting some ducting in to the brakes if possible as that's a cheap easy way to extend the life of your pads/rotors too, just a little fiddly to do. With rotors don't bother with flash ones that are grooved/dimpled/drilled, I don't think they provide enough of a difference for the price. So just go with cheap new rotors, bed them to the pads you use and make sure they are well bedded in with fresh fluid and then go hard. If you are planning on tracking the car a bit and find you are starting to carry some corner speed, baffle the sump. That's probably the most important thing you can do on a Subaru and then keep an eye on the oil levels, as they don't love g forces. That is also more important than sticky tyres, you can always learn to carry plenty of speed on road tyres before you spend a heap buying flash tyres.

What's your budget? As that will dictate things. And whatever your budget is, don't be surprised if you get a bit hooked and find you double it... For cheap stuff I agree with Craig and Sam, Ultimates would be a reasonable compromise. Personally I run separate pads and rotors for the track as pads will work better when bedded in to the rotor you race on, as well as meaning there is enough pad transfer on the rotors to help make them more effective. But depending on budget something like that may not be so practical. I am a fan of the EBC pad range and that is what I use in all 3 race cars, but none of them are daily driven on those pads. Although the EBC Yellow can be used daily and I have done in the past. But I would see it as a waste spending money on a good pad and to then daily drive it out of existence. I think do as Craig says, start with an Ultimate (assuming they are cheap?) and see how you like it, no point throwing heaps of money at it if you run a bearing your first time out and decide you don't like racing! More importantly, remember to bleed your brake fluid and to have reasonable tyres (no cheap chinese sh*t as that just gets frustrating when they die on the track).

What are people using for settings in a Link G4 for launch control? I am currently finding it bogs a bit and almost falls completely off boost, logging shows dropping to 3500rpm. It's fine in the the damp/wet or on road tyres, but on semi slicks it's just bogs a little too much and I don't want to break something. This is in a WRX rally car with a 6 speed (no restrictor, rev limit 7600rpm, TD05-20G and basic supporting mods). Current settings: From the brief stuff I have read online (mostly by Andre) it looks like I should switch to ignition cut and maybe add more launch ignition trim. But I am not easily able to test it as having a straight pipe and living in the suburbs it's not so practical to just go out and test launch it... That and I would prefer to not put unnecessary wear and tear on the poor car.

Sorta, spent a bit of time in an actual race car (as opposed to the WRX) and that has helped get me a bit braver/more aggressive. That and for once the WRX is running well, which is probably at least half of the equation. It's still not the fastest car at any event, but it's getting better. Mt Vic is still going to be a bit of a drag race however, so don't expect great results there. You going to be there?

Drove from Wellington to Eltham in Taranaki, raced up a road for the day, then drove home. Covered about 700km and no trailer. Tired now!

Went to do rocker cover gaskets, right hand side went on fine, left hand side discovered I had been given 2 right hand ones by Subaru. And I had to go road tune the car in an hour. So slapped it back together with the stuffed gaskets. Man it leaked a fair bit, then the crank breather hose split, so I got a lot of oil over things in a short space while tuning... On the plus side, 440s are now running out of duty cycle at 15psi, so the TD05-20G cheap and nasty chinese turbo seems to flow air ok at least.

Surge tank is important if you are planning on going to a track and going to carry enough G forces. And a fuel cut/AFR logging will I suspect be way too slow to save you when the car is already detonating, even if it's just for a short period of time. I would suggest build the car so that it doesn't lean out in the first place (speaking from first hand experience of lunching a motor last year due to leaning out when fuel surging). Also, any sort of warning/gauge, make sure it's in your face (ie a bright f*ck off light) and can't be missed, otherwise you won't notice it until it's too late, as on a track your focus is mirrors and driving lines, not the dash/gauges.

I have never scrutineered a car and asked to see the windows be open-able in an emergency and I have been a scrutineer for a few years. But as Joker highlighted, manual states should be easily removable. However you could also argue that in an accident it's stock glass, it's going to smash fairly easily if the door is busted and can't be opened... So I highly doubt you would have an issue with it. Whether its sensible/going to save you much in weight, well weigh the components and work out what's best. If you sit in a queue at a start line/dummy grid, you may come to regret not having any airflow through the car, I know I do in summer!

This is where you name and shame the company... That's rather excessive for a relatively simple job. However given the choice of car, they may assume you have no idea about cars and tried to see if they could con you?

Mobil 8000 is also 10% ethanol in some areas (ie Wellington).

Super Cats are good value for money. No idea if they make a 19 though.

For rear I would stick with a stock rotor, especially for road use. Slotted I can't tell the difference (on the front) other than that they chew up pads quicker? (My record is a set of pads in 2 days on a rally).