rex-leggy

id be steering away from using a long rod . from what ive read changing gudgen height is a better option. if somthing brakes its eaiser to get a eaisly avalible part rather than a 1 off. stick with 2.2 they can be epic!

san ( X ) did the dash swap in his type r coupe . sounded like it wasnt to bad. I was going to try suff one in a rs leggy which ive seen has been done before online. but just ended up getting a v7

pm sas and ask for a price to compare

agreed but ill sell it . but thought that i helped create a monster would haunt me forever [quote name='dubbedup said: Has anyone done this to a gc? hmmm could look ok

shame ya dont wana v7 front . I have a complete v7 sti setup spare

really cant wait to enter these events!

power to weight = big grins i bet ! have to use it next year for the nzrc runabout if richard enters

oooo whos the chief

he didnt miss it. he rarely misses much

love it matt! been to the dyno at all?

got to love it

yea thats why I said to check that on the last page

not just a bit rich . the tune would be completely incorrect everywhere. running rich kills engines also

I wouldnt want any random rocking a cs sticker. if I see another car with one ill approach for a chin wag . if anyone could get one it means nothing

pink injectors are top feed . v5/6 are side feed. big difference . you need rails to suit injectors but you cant just change injectors for the hell of it, without tuning unless you hate your engine that is

its behind the alternator. once removed theres 2 sensors on the pipe that goes between the 2 heads underneath the intake. its the one with one wire from memory

you can use coppers. I will be because ill be changing regularly. 3 hours is a bit of a stretch more like half hour with the correct tools.

any good one will just call around

and check to see if the thermostat has been removed . that could explain why the gauge dosent rise . its also what people do to mask the fact a car has a blown headgastet.

you need to get it flushed professionally I would think. Ive never done it but would think they would run more than a hose through it. if its a blocked heater core then best bet imo is replace it. theres a thread on here that tells you how to bypass the heater core . basically just put 2 t pieces in the hoses before they go through the firewall and put a peice of water hose between them. I think you wana just spend a little $$ first up and take it somwhere to get tested for a blown headgastet. ive seen to many people chace down overheating issues and come to the worse conclusion last. imo start at the wore case and work back... get a blue test

could be many things the sender could be buggerd for the gauge. could be a blocked system or an airlock or even a blocked heater core. or a blown headgastet . the top tank has 3 hoses . one goes to the water pump one feeds the water cooling to the turbo and one goes to the raidiator.

follow the bottom rad hose to the water pump. the thermostat is inside the piece the hose mounts to. 2 bolts and itll pop off. im guessing you are having overheating problems?

you follow there instructions on the bottles. theres a cleaning agent and the oil . clean , dry , then apply oil down the elements or pleates whatever there called

why would you spay it on it you apply a film to the filter material not to a afm i dont agree (that oil you put on the filter correctly will stuff it) but if you spray it directly on it then you need your head checked

if you put that much oil on a filter then you shouldn\'t be touching a car at all. i think most of the time people think its the afm but might change say spark plugs or a oxygen sensor at the same time as swapping the afm . then they decide to blame the oil rather then realizing they buggerd up the whole time looking at the wrong problem evo what poll do ya want ? ill set it up for giggles