Tony

Check Speedhunters for the in-car video of his "oh sh*t" moment at the beginning of the run! Pretty crazy! and he is doing a commentry while he is driving too!

I know the car you are talking about Johnny... It's a version 10 STI, my wife nearly bought it earlier this year from Bruce Herbert but decided against it in the end. Really nice looking car. I think the owner must work in that area as I always see it there too.

Yeah, pretty common with a lot of those aftermarket alloy rads. I had the same issue with mine. You can put a screwdriver in that small connection (make sure it is just smaller than the inner diameter) and give it a gentle tweak upwards to give enough room for the top radiator hose. DONT bend it too much though or it will crack. In the end I cut that fitting off completely and filled it in then welded another fitting on the side of the tank. If you arent happy with it, just take it back to them - from what I understand they are usually pretty good about it.

Not really much to see, but you get the idea:

They exit on the same side - I got a 3 inch splitter which you can get from most exhaust shops (pitstop etc) which is 3 inch at one and and is flared out at the other to allow the 2 x 2.5 pipes to be welded in. Will try and take some pics for you tonight and post them up

Mine is 3 inch stainless then the exit splits into 2 x 2.5 inch stainless tips. A 3 inch tube sat too low where it comes out under the sill so the 2 x 2.5s gives more clearance. Can take some pics for you if you want to see what its like... My car is a road legal race car, though its pretty much on the edge of being road legal - I dont drive it around all the time, just over to thetrack for local events, or down the road to get a wheel alignment etc...

The exhaust outlet CAN NOT be any closer than 200mm from an opening (door/window) if u can get the side exhaust further away than that then all good( like is it a coupe) But isnt it ok in a 4 door (caged race car) as it should now be re-registered (or whatever you have to do) as a 2 seater since the rear seats etc are no longer used therefore you can have your exhaust exiting just before the rear wheel. Thats where mine is anyway, and I have no issues with getting a WOF. [quote name='Munkvy said: Remove mufflers from your exhaust (real race cars don't need mufflers after all!) and shorten it to a side exit. With the factory cast headers I had no mufflers at all in my exhaust - full 3 inch to side exit, and it was fine - I never got told off at the track for being over the DB limit, but it was possibly a little too loud for street driving, but in saying that I had driven past a few cops and they never did anything? When I changed to my new headers which are full equal length, the car was crazy loud! Had a horrible sharp bark to it and had to fit a bullet muffler/resonator thing in the middle of my exhaust - that took away the bark and now the car is probably quieter than a lot of other Subarus I hear driving around! But it is noticibly louder inside the car with a side exit (and no interior).

Who cares, just let the guy sell his car. Its at $10k and over the reserve - hardly a rip off in my eyes. At the end of the day its worth whatever the buyer wants to pay.

+40 should give plenty of clearance on the inside for your struts, and being only 7" wide you should have too many issues with your guards. Rears would need the lip folded up (if not already) and you may need to run some negative camber to tuck them inside the guard depending on how they sit but this isn't a major. Just depends on how much you like these wheels really.... You can make anything fit if you want

Get hold of Geartech on 06 354 7590... they are very good, and take care of all the gearbox/diff work on my race car. Highly recommend Anton and the team.

LOL Balls, they will be thin steel. All impreza roofs are thin - my roof supports got removed when my cage went in and my roof feels like a coke can if you press on it! It aint alloy though.

You sure about that?

I reckon its slightly better... It has one side cut off it (when compared with a normal single scroll sump), so basically the oil cant surge away from the pick-up on that side. I have seen a few later model subarus pushed hard at the track (by people that can drive) on good tyres and they have had no issues... Most of the Version 8 Spec C production race cars from a few years back ran standard sumps and didnt have any problems.

You would think so, but my AP discs are slotted in the same direction as those DBA ones, and they are sold as lefts and rights due to the direction of the internal cooling vanes). I find that no matter what, slotted discs eat pads at a way faster rate :'(

err arn't your slotted rotors on backwards? In my experience, the direction of the slots dont really seem to matter, as between brands I have seen the slots run both ways (/ and \). Its the cooling vanes (in between each disc face) that usually dictate which side the disc runs on (apart from the generic discs which have those straight vanes and are non handed).

That is probably the most important thing IMO, but in reality 90% of people dont care, as long as they have their precious "number" to w@nk on about to their peers : The only dyno that really matters is the black dyno.... ;D

To me it doesnt look like a mechanical plate diff. The fact that its a full sealed unit (as far as I can tell from the pics) suggests its a viscous. In fact in looks nearly identical to a V7 STI suretrac that I had laying around... Can the centre be pulled apart at all? Are there any holes in the outer casing which you can see into the centre?

Cosworth gaskets would be one of the best choices to use. Only person I know of on here using them would be BT. You cant really go wrong with them - just make sure you get the correct thickness for your specific engine.

Yep, you can do the rears like that but not the fronts* due to the different design in the new style hubs. The 9/10 fronts have the hub flange combined with a larger sealed bearing as a seperate unit which then bolts into the knuckle - the same type of set-up as late model Evos. This was the #1 reason why I changed to this front set-up, as the new bearings are far stronger and can handle race conditions far better than the original smaller bearings (no more pad knock-off, uneven pad wear etc). * Unless, as you say, the hub flanges for these are available seperatly? When I got mine they were a complete unit with the bearing combined so figured that you just replace them like that. [quote name='grego0o said: Couldn't he just get some 15mm spacers that a 5x100 ---> 5x114.3? Provided he has enough space to fit the wheels in the gaurds? Thats where I would say he will run into problems unless he is doing some mad widebody work.... Drift Teks are already a lower offset than any subaru suited wheels - say +35 (I think are the highest offset they do?), so once you chuck on some 15mm spacers, you would be looking at an offset of +20, so along with the width of the wheels (8" minimum at a guess) they are going to be sitting out a fair bit. But yeah, adapter spacers would be the cheapest/easiest way to do it.

As PhatRS said - you will need Version 9+ STI hubs. This will require matching front suspension to suit as the clevis on the new style knuckles is a lot thicker and has different spaced mounting holes for the lower strut mount. OR, you can have the hub knuckle clevis machined down, and re-drill 1 of the holes to suit your original suspension (BT did his this way). Your axles *should* be fine (I am not familiar with RS axles, but they shouldnt be too different from mine and I didnt have to change axles on my 97 GC8 when I did the hub conversion) - but you may run into issues with axles if your car has ABS and you want to keep it... in that case you will need to get a spacer machined up that slips on the end of the outer CV and allows the ABS tone ring to be re-located as the pick-up point for the ABS sensor sits in a different position on the new hubs. For the rear, you can either get the Ver. 9+ STI hubs, or any other (5x100) R180 spec STI hubs and re-drill the PCD to 5x114 as there is enough meat on the hub flange to allow this to be done. This also means that you will need to sort an R180 rear diff, axles etc. The new style hub conversion is not a cheap exercise, plus if you need to get the R180 set-up as well its really gonna add up, so you need to decide if its really worthwhile just to fit those drift teks. Best bet would be to see if there are any wrecked Ver. 9/10s at any wreckers, but these parts tend to get snapped up fairly quickly when they come in. Hope that helps.

Since Motorsport Manawatu are overseeing and handling the documentation/scrutineering on the day I can try and get you a pair of the car clubs overalls and a helmet to use if you cant find anything else (or decide to buy your own before then).

Expense will always come into it when motorsport is concerned sadly. If you REALLY are keen to get into it then why not make a conscious effort, and look at buying yourself a pair of overalls and an approved helmet - then when the time comes for you to enter an event, thats 1 less thing to worry about. You havent done any events since that playday last year so in the meantime you could have saved a bit of cash and bought the above items and be 2 steps closer to entering this event!

Entry form is now online: http://www.4androtary.co.nz/Competitor/north-island-jamboree-online-entry.html Entry fee is $85. Superlap is limited to 50 entries, so if you are keen, get in there.

No not yet, still waiting to hear if we will have AMB timing for it, so the final price has not yet been confirmed. As soon as I know I will post up. [quote name='xecuta said: is this organised by speedtech and redline? you can call and ask them? Nah not run by those guys San, overall the whole event is run by 4 & Rotary Promotions and Motorsport Manawatu are helping to run the Superlap/track stuff for them

Well ya cant have everything, its not like the old days when open trackdays were run every month - you basically have to check when events are happening and actually make an effort to get out there or miss out. Road & Track series starts in April - cheaper than a Playday and (depending on numbers) you can get nearly as much track time. We are actually pretty lucky in our area with how much track time is actually available.