Tony

At an event like this you wont get a tonne of track time as the organisers are wanting to push things through and provide a decent show for the masses coming to watch - and lets face it, the masses would much rather see drift cars out on the track doin their thing than cars just driving around, but you will get still a decent amount of time for what you are paying (entry will be around $70 from memory). Going by last year, you will get 2, maybe 3 warm up/test sessions of 15-20 minutes, then 2 timed "superlap" runs. Considering I pay $275 for 1 qualifying and 3 races at a national race meeting, the amount of track time you get is fair for what you are paying!! If you want a lot of track time, then Playdays are the way to go, no 2 ways about it. This event is being run as a motorsport New Zealand "single car sprint" competition so you cant expect it to be open track as everyone needs to get their turn.

Yep, all you need to do is buy that bracket from Maclennans, get your fire extinguisher, and then bolt the fire extinguisher (metal) bracket to the mounting bracket (you got from Maclennnans). Once thats all bolted on, remove your 2 front passenger seat mounting bolts, and bolt the complete extingisher + bracket to the front of the seat mount and you're done Easy as.

Just make sure the one you buy has a METAL mounting bracket, plastic brackets are not accepted under MSNZ rules. Pretty sure the ones Supercheap sell have metal brackets - just check them out before you jump in and buy though. Otherwise try Mitre 10 Mega as they used to have decent metal bracket extinguishers for a reasonable price. Extyinguisher needs to be mounted within easy reach of the driver, so most usually put it on the passenger footwell in front of the seat. Easiest way is to mount it straight through the floor - the bracket must be bolted (not screwed) using M6 bolts and panel washers on the other side. If you dont really want to drill holes in your car, you can buy an extinguisher mounting bracket which bolts between the passenger seat mounting bolts and then you just bolt your extinguisher to that - makes for a tidy install. You would have to call up Maclennans Performance in Wellington to sort one of them out... see here: http://www.mapc.co.nz/macbilt-fire-extinquisher-bracket-for-subarus.html Other than a helmet and some cotton overalls, thats about all you will need for the day.

Price has not been confirmed yet as we are still waiting to see if we will have AMB timing for the event - if so, the price will be slightly more than usual to pay for transponder hire. As soon as I know the price, and more details I will make a new thread about the Superlap event. I did speak to one of the guys today who told me that the entry form is supposed to be up on the site, but I think I may have something wrong with my computer as I cant see a certain part of the site, so am guessing the entry form is in that part. Yes it is a little bit more strict than a playday as it is run under MSNZ rules, and we will have a proper scrutineering, but dont let this turn you away, the scrutineering is for your own safety. But I will chuck up more info once I get it...

yep, you can enter the time attack. Some info here: url]http://www.4androtary.co.nz/north-island-jamboree/track-racing-information/track-racing-information/[/url] and regs here: http://www.4androtary.co.nz/north-island-jamboree/competitor/superlap-regulations/ I may be blind, but I cant seem to find an entry form on that site anywhere yet? Will check with the organisers and see whats up with that and post back when I get more info...

You know this is for the drifting right? Superlap is individual...

$1900 + GST is still a VERY good price for a cage that comprehensive (we are talking through to the front strut towers here arent we?). Around here you would be looking at that price for a basic MSNZ spec 6 point cage. Before going ahead with anything, I would confirm exactly what you are getting for your money - get a drawing of the cage and what bars it includes. As light as possible for minimum outlay is the way I have done my car - to go any further I would have to spend a decent amount of cash to drop more weight (lexan windows, feul cell, fibreglass doors etc...), you just have to decide if its really worth it in the long run!

A 10 point cage for $1500? That's a hell deal! Who is building them for that price? Cos with the new msnz roll cage standards (new thicker main hoop tubing) prices for cage manufacture have definitley gone up, plus if the cage is going to have as many bars as the one in the vid you posted I can't see how he can charge you so little... Is he doing it for minimal labour charge or something? Getting your car under 1100kg is achievable, just depends how far you want to go and how much you want to spend (fuel cell, fiberglass panels, other lightweight bits etc.. Are not the cheapest to buy). I wouldn't worry too much about the cars weight at this stage, just get the cage in it and get out there and do as many events as you can and enjoy the car. If you want to get more serious with it further down the track then look into your options of making it lighter, but to give you an example, you could call my car fairly serious, yet I could still lose more weight from it, but I find it is plenty quick enough as it is (1166kg wet, without me - that's with a heavy 6 speed and heavy brembos, plus a few other extra bits and pieces over a standard car). (excuse the spelling/grammar am sending this from a crap iPhone I aint to good with these things!)

Rowan (5UBZRO) has his oil cooler mounted up there on his race car - drop him a PM and see what he says about it. As far as I know he hasnt had any issues...

I have heaps of them, can send you some if you want. Drop me a pm if you are keen.

He doesn't want to spend a sh*tload as mentioned in the first post.... the V9/10 hub change isnt a cheap exercise. Best bet is Trademe - be patient and keep an eye on the wheels section, things do pop up from time to time, thats how I got all my wheels

BKR7ES IS a copper plug, and they usually have them in stock (as said by GETLOW above).

My set-up is pretty much solid mounted. Have not had any issues with it. I am using the factory mounting points (and factory brackets) to support the turbo & external gate (its a reasonably sized Garrett, so has a bit of weight). My up-pipe is one piece stainless, and I have no flexis in my exhaust system at all - full 3 inch stainless into twin 2.5 inch pipes exiting out the passenger side of the car. My whole exhaust is pretty light and is well supported with rubber hangers so doesnt put too much stress on anything. I think what helps is that my headers (also custom made perfect equal length) are very well slip jointed so there is enough movement in them to compensate and stop anything from cracking. They are made from the best grade of stainless you can use for headers though, so that probably helps as well. This is on my race car, so definitly sees some thrashing and high temperatures - if anything was going to fail, it would fail under these conditions.

faaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaark...... what compound P-Mus are you using for them to cost that much? The sintered endurance ones or something??????

cool cheers but will a Y connection do better than a T connection flow or performance wise? The tees work fine, I wouldnt stress about it. I have run exactly the same tee piece fittings as yours on my race car for 6 years now and never had any fuel flow issues.

Whats the reason for it being so expensive to enter? Is it quite pricey to close that particular road, and get permits etc?

Best solution is to not use gaskets.... take headers & up-pipe off and get both surfaces faced so they are perfectly flat then you shouldnt have any issues. Thats how I run my header to up-pipe join...

I used screws in mine, never had an issue with them (they are coated or stainless from memory?). Bonus is that when you need to remove the pins (cos you smash your bonnet in a race :'( ) you just unscrew them rather than having to drill them out like rivets. Most pins come with those funny backing things that the screws thread into but you dont need them, just drill the holes for the screws quite small, since the alloy bonnets are soft the screws bite in really well and they dont come loose or anything.

Cheers man, it aint that fancy, but should definitly serve its purpose [quote name='pedro said: And the floor is spotless as well. hahaha, I try to keep my garage clean (although sometimes hard with all the crap I have laying around...)

If anyone is interested, here's the ducting I did from my intercooler to the radiator. This means that all the air passing through my intercooler HAS to go through the radiator rather than escaping out the top/bottom/sides. Pretty easy to do as well - just need some thin alloy sheet, tin snips, and a rivet gun Every little bit helps when it comes to controlling temps on the track...

Yeah I thought that would be most peoples reason to use platinum/iridium plugs in a Subaru as they last longer so that means you dont have to go through the chore of changing them regularly. Fortunatly my engine bay has a lot more free space than a standard car so it only take about 10 minutes to change my plugs so not a big issue to replace them regularly hence the reason I use coppers.

I use copper plugs. They're WAAAAAY cheaper, and I cant tell any difference in performance between them and platinum/iridium plugs. Paying $25 (or whatever it is) per plug is just crazy :

Luke, you need to take the gauge cluster out and unplug the plug that sits right behind where those lights are... then it will stop flashing. Its easy enough to do, just remove the screws holding the gauge surround in, then once thats out of the way remove the screws holding the cluster in and you should be able to pull the cluster out and unplug the DCCD plug... simple

Its not hard to buy good quality stuff at all, the hard part is people never want to pay for it... There is a lot of chinese knck off parts around these days, so much that it seems thats all we get used to in terms of pricing, so when you see a product from a reputible brand we all tend to think its a rip off! Just the way it is these days... NZ is full of cheap asses (I work in retail so I know all about it!). I guess most of these places in NZ are just catering to the market by supplying cheaper products as thats what most punters seem to want in these current times. You can definitly get good headers without going custom made... try the USA (dollar is good at the mo - http://www.full-race.com/) or Japanese brands (HKS, Greddy, etc etc)... but be prepared for the price.

All sorted, thanks Rob