Tony

Was that price for the hub knuckle? Cos it sounds about right. I would say that you would have to add the cost of the actual hub drive flange, and wheel bearing onto that as well Seems far too cheap for a complete hub set-up. On trademe when most people list hubs, it is the complete knuckle/hub/bearing combo, wheras from Subaru, you would be purchasing each part seperatly. Scoobydoo - If the $300 Trademe hub is in excellent condition, and has low Ks then it wouldnt be a bad idea... the link you posted is a RH side hub. From memory you would be looking at more than that for a workshop to replace the drive flange and bearing, BUT, with that option at least you will have brand new parts rather than buying something of unknown history... cos the Subaru wheel bearings are pretty average.

DOTMAR - Engineering Plastics. I am sure they have a few branches around NZ. They have a large range of sizes available so you should be able to find the ones you need... get viton ones if you want really good quality o-rings.

It doesnt go anywhere, it just ends at the top of the bell housing. It is a breather.

If it is a proper plated mech LSD then that is totally normal. You can feel it through the steering and the front of the car feels jumpy as you turn. It is common to get this much noise when using Redline shockproof as it has no friction modifiers added. You can buy that small black bottle of the redline friction modifier to pour in. I ran shockproof without the friction modifier under recommendation from my gearbox guy, as it makes the diff lock up better (which by the sounds of it, yours is doing). Works well at high speed, but you certainly get some looks if you are driving the car around town ;D Another reason I was told to not use it was because it is apparently quite bad for the synchro material as well... The friction modifier will quieten it down a bit, but at slow speeds you will still have some noise - its just a trait of plate front diffs.

Its most likely stuck on the dowels that are on the engine block. Just persevere with the screwdriver - might be the only way... you should be able to get it apart enough to get a pry bar in there...

Dont worry about the cooler. BT ran into the same problem when his radiator broke at a race meet and the replacemnet he got didnt have the cooler in the bottom tank. He just looped the lines (where the hardlines end at the front of the LH chassis rail). Has been running it for 4 race meetings so far with no issues. I also dont run a transmission cooler on my 6 speed and have had no problems either. If our race cars are okay without it, then I am sure your street car will be. If you are that concerned, then you can get an external trans cooler and run the lines to that, BUT, you have to get a fairly small one as you dont want to over-cool the oil.... and then the problem is actually finding one small enough (which semed to be easier said than done with all the suppliers I checked with when trying to get BT one).

sweet, will give me somthing to do tomorow!

How did you get the window to stay up?? or do you have wind up windows rather than electrics?

Only on the new style front hubs. The rear hubs are the same width on the clevis as the previous STI models...

mine has them as well (and its a V4). Just get the grinder out - problem solved.

All the 6MTs have an internal pump I'm sure. I know mine does as when it got rebuilt last time Anton said the pump was still in good condition and had no issues...

There is a metal tubular line which links the front and middle casings on the gearbox. On the cooler equipped ones there will be break in this line which has hoses on it that lead to the radiator bottom tank where the trans fluid is cooled (same as how it is done on auto trans in some cars) rather than a seperate external cooler. This is on the Spec C's I have seen - not sure if any of the models actually had external coolers as such? Maybe someone else can chime in about that.... On the non cooler equipped cars the line has no breaks and just goes from front to the middle. To fit a cooler you need to remove the line, cut it and braze some fittings on each end and then run the lines to an external cooler. Easy.

You can get Motul 300v Competition 15w-50 Full synthetic. Its the only oil I have ever used in my race car. Open your wallet though..... its expensive (more so when your car takes just over 7 litres of oil :'() http://www.motul.co.nz/product_line_up/4stroke/4stroke02.html If you have a local Mag & Turbo they sell the Motul range... BNT may also be able to get it.

All dynos are different. I am guessing that Dave used Ross's (DDT) dyno in the naki to tune it? Dave tuned my car there a while back, and it didnt make the "number" he was expecting, but upon driving the car it felt more than adequate for my needs (and also a lot better than a much higher "number" I had on a different dyno previously ). More importantly, how does the car drive now? Does it feel better than before? If so, then dont get too hung up on the final number - they are only really good for w**king on about!

For me, the only difference between slotted and plain rotors was that my pads wore out A LOT quicker. I couldnt feel any performance difference between the two, but surely there must be some since all of the big name race brake kits supply slotted ones??? I race on a budget though, and would rather that my $500 race pads last a bit longer than 2 meetings or things start getting REAL expensive, REAL fast!

anyone know how to turn it off on an AVS intergrated alarm system? It shouldnt be an issue with the AVS system as the turbo timer only works when the handbrake is on.... well on my old car with the AVS alarm & t/timer function it did, unless they have changed something these days?

Different workshops have different opinions on which gearbox oils to use, and most of the time it is between Redline & Motul. I go with what my gearbox guy (Anton @ Geartech Automotive) recommends, and that is Redline Lightweight Shockproof. He is held in quite high regard in terms of gearbox work (for competition cars) around NZ so I guess I trust his opinion. It hasn't let me down so far, and I have been using it since I fitted the 6 speed 4 years ago. Interestingly enough, I was going to try Motul Gear FF LSD after my last gearbox freshen up (since the guys at Motul look after me for engine oil), but went with Antons reccomendation instead... might try it next time though just to see if there is any noticable difference... never know unless ya try.

Yeah, the threaded ends will be the same on all of them (same pitch & size etc), but the actual camber bolt has the cam eccentric "hump" in the middle, and the front hub top hole is larger to allow for the cam to move and give adjustment. The rears are just straight bolts, and the holes in the rear hubs are not big enough to fit the front (factory) camber bolts... BUT, you can get a die grinder and make them work - and they are far chunkier & stronger than the aftermarket camber bolts which you can buy.

Are they the factory bolts, or aftermarket ones like Mike pictured above??? Cos if they are the factory front camber bolts, they wont fit in the rear - they are too fat.

Just PM'd you back

Chris, as said, your alignment is fine for what you want to do with the car, but not so fine if you drive it on the road heaps. The more normal driving you do with that much camber, the quicker the tyres will wear. You have 2 options - get a more street friendly alignment, OR buy a trailer and tow vehicle! As for the gearbox oil - it is fine. Thats what I have always used in my gearbox Oh, and 235/40/17s will fit fine on your wheels (NOT 235/45/17 - they are a bit too tall to run on a GC8).

All the early GC8s that I have seen underneath of (whether WRX or STI) have had alloy arms. My old 93 WRX did. I was under the impression that it was just the wagons that got the steel arms...

To me, that is insignificant! I am no professional or expert, so I couldnt tell the difference that the extra weight made on my car when I fitted the arms - but the adjustment I could get out of them was worth it (its hard to get decent camber in the rear of a GC as well as making toe adjustments far easier). I understand where you are coming from, but you say your car is a "club" car, where to me it sounds like you are taking it a bit more serious than that level if you are worrying about 2 extra kgs per wheel in the rear of the car. Nothing wrong with that at all, but as I said, if you want the fancy (quality branded/custom) light bits, be prepared to pay the big money for them (just like a set of decent lightweight wheels). Check this out for the Ikeya Formula arms: http://www.ikeya-f.co.jp/en/index.html

As I said above, I have them on my race car and they are fine. I didnt notice any difference in regards to weight after installing them - in fact, I dropped my lap times even more (cant say it ws just because of these arms, but basically, installing these didnt make me slower ) If you are that concerned about increasing the unsprung weight in that area you may have to look into getting some chromolly arm$ cu$tom made with pillowball$... OR, but the Ikeya Formula rear arm set-up (big dollars there though).

As far as I know, they are the same as any other sump on an EJ20 engine of that era. Nothing else special about them. Dave (cornf? on these forums) removed the sump on his 22B to fit a Version 8 twinscroll sump so he could probably tell you...