Tony

What Koom said For the fronts you need to get the Ver. 9/10 front hub knuckles, and the 5x114.3 hub/drive flanges which bolt to them. You will then have to suss what you are going to do for suspension as the new hub knuckles are a lot chunkier than the old ones and use different spaced pick up points for the bottom of the strut. As for the rears, If you have an R180 rear end, the Ver. 9/10 hubs will press in, but not 100% necessary as the R180 drive flanges have enough meat in them to re-drill to 5x114.3. Not too sure about R160 rear hubs though sorry. The other option is to use bolt on spacers which change the PCD (Optical has done this for his fronts), but then your wheels will be pushed outwards further (as the spacers will need to be 15mm minimum), which can be a problem as usually all the good 5x114.3 rims (well the ones I want!) seem to have lower offsets which dont really suit Subarus so much....

yeah, the lines are actually at the top of the rack sorry! They are the hard lines with flared ends held in by a 14mm and a 17mm nut (from memory thats the sizes).

Just had to do this myself. The only hard part is getting to and undoing the lines at the bottom of the rack so you can drop it out. I removed my up-pipe to allow enough space so I could undo them - was pretty simple with that out of the way. After that just undo the mount bolts (underneath), and disconnect the tie rods and it will drop down

Its not a bad idea to replace them - you may as well since you are putting the new rack in. But Subarus price is craaaaazy. I went to get some the other week and nearly fell over when they gave me that price! I ended up getting some from our local Autolign, and they were nowhere near as expensive (around a third of the OEM price).

Exactly. That is how I have done mine. Dont want to take any chances with power steering fluid - it catches fire quite well being so close to the turbo...

Posting up to get the word out, someone may have seen something.... I got this e-mail to me last night from a mate: Forwarded... Stolen 1980 Brock Commodore Last night in Morrinsville xxxxx's pride and joy was stolen. It is a 1980 HDT Brock Commodore - in original perfect condition. Number plate '05'. It is white, with a bright red interior. There are only around 5 of these in the country - it is labelled number 323 (of 500 every built). It has Brockie's signature on the back. Once modified (painted etc) it will be worthless (or worth as little as a 1980 V8 Commodore is). It is unsellable as it is, as it is too recognisable. REWARD OFFERED for return - or any information leading to recovery. I would appreciate it if you could send this around to all your contacts, as we believe we only have a limited amount of time to recover Brockie before she is toasted. A RX7 was also stolen from the same workshop, both cars were put on a trailer(s) in the middle of the night from an alarmed workshop - right on the main road of Morrinsville. Further update Thief's appear to be professionals. 3 other break ins in Morrinsville were believed to be distractions around 2am Wednesday night. The alarm was ripped from the wall, wires cut, and the battery ripped out as well. We believe the RX7 was used to tow Brockie around to a builders yard about 3 blocks away. The padlock was cut to open the gate. The RX7 was left at the builders yard, and a normal builders trailer is missing. Therefore we are now looking for Brockie being towed away on a normal open trailer around 3am. They were very determined, as Brockie needed to be jacked up to get out of the workshop, and is a heavy car which would have needed significant strength to get it on a normal trailer. CONTACT MORRINSVILLE POLICE ASAP If anyone saw anything related to this, get in touch with the Morrinsville Police. Cheers.

Personally, 255s are even a bit wide for 8 inch rim width, you would want 8.5 inch wide at the very minimum. They get too "balloony" on anything smaller IMO. There is no point having a tyre that wide if you dont have the rim width to back it up, you wouldnt be doing your handling any favours.

Its 225/45/17

From memory the turbo oil drain is -12. The water lines (in & out) will be fine with -6, thats the size I used for mine.

If you can get a set-up for $100 then grab it for sure! Thats a good deal

Johnny, one thing that lap timers are not, is cheap (unfortunately). The one in that link is only the actual in-car part, so you would need the actual beacon which you chuck on the pit wall - which if you buy off that guy is another $110 Sometimes they pop up 2nd hand, but not that regularly. I have used the AIM timers and they are really nice - but also very expensive. I was borrowing the bro-in-laws one, but now his car is finished I had to give it back! BT also uses on of them - he could probably fill you in on where to buy one from. I am currently using an old "Hot Lap" timer, but my beacon has had a hard lif and sometimes does not pick up when I go past it! So no real point using it really! For actual race meetings we use transponders which are triggered off a loop in the track, but these do not have an in-car display, so you have to wait until the end of the race to check the results sheets to see your times. These are hired to competitors at race meetings (unless you own your own).

Some good suggestions for the occasional track day that are still street friendly: Mintex M1155 Mintex M1166 Ferodo Formula TS2000 Endless CC-X Any of those will do the job fine. Others will chime in with more recommendations no doubt. PS. Endless are available from Prosport Auto: www.endless-sport.co.nz and I am pretty sure Race Brakes do both the Mintex & Ferodo pads.

Parts (2 x new boots) are around $20 (or less depending on where you go/who you know). To do the job probably takes about 15 minutes (if that) each side. If you are getting a mechanic to do the job, they would charge you for parts & hopefully half an hours labour, shouldnt cost too much... maybe $60-$65 all up (I dont know what mechanics charge per hour where you are) at the max.

Yep, clubsport events marked in your logbook do count for your "2 events" to maintain use of your car on the road when it comes to WOF time (with authority card etc). In most cases a full cage is not a mandatory requirement for clubsport events, and a homologated half cage will do fine.

nah Pappu, if you use a 5 speed clutch you use the 5 speed flywheel, and you also have to use the 5 speed starter motor. Likewise with the 6 speed clutch.. use the 6 speed flywheel, and you have to use the 6 speed starter motor. Here is my list of what you will need for the conversion: 6MT box 6MT gear shifter assembly (with reverse lock out) 6MT or WRX/Impreza AUTO prop shaft 3.9 ratio rear diff to suit your set up (whether it be R180 or R160) 6MT Clutch Fork & Slave Cylinder The gearbox subframes are the same for the 5 speeds so you can just use a 5 speed one if you dont have the 6 speed one. The gearbox mounts look to be pretty much the same and you can use the 5 speed one (as in it will fit) but it may not be as strong due to the weight difference between the 2 gearboxes... Front axles will be dependant on what type of 6 speed you are fitting. The newer ones do not have the stub axles coming out of the front diff so you will need the "male" inner CVs to suit, otherwise for the earlier boxes (Ver. 7 & 8) use the normal "female" inner CVs so most peoples original axles will be fine. Pretty sure thats all.... I may have forgotten a couple of little things but will post up again if I remember anything else...

Loren, dont bother with camber bolts, use a die grinder/dremel - its easy as, done it on my ones. You can actually get quite a bit of camber out of it. Only thing you have to watch out for is that it will move the wheel/tyre closer to the strut - can be quite close if your coilover locking rings are at the same height as the tyre...

Everything should bolt straight on. The fronts definately will, and unless the V7 STI wagons did not have R180 rear ends (which I am pretty sure they do), the rears will too. Only thing you may need to change would be your wheels if they do not clear the larger front calipers...

yep, in wet conditions I undo both my swaybars (just take 1 link off each bar and cable tie it up out of the way). Car feels a bit sloppy, but definately works the tyres and makes the car feel grippier in greasy conditions.

I would get the 22mm adjustable rear bar and play around with that first... go to the track, start with it on the softest setting and see if it helps, then go from there...

V9+ STI uses the larger front hub knuckles & wheel bearings (and 5x114 PCD) so where the bottom of the strut bolts to the hub it is a lot bigger so will not suit the V8 which has the older style hubs. You can buy new bottom mounts for the Teins which thread onto the shaft so they will fit a V8 though ($$$). The rears will fit fine.

Your car is a race car right? If so, you will need a cooler - best to fit an aftermarket one, the factory "loop" thing is very average - use a small auto trans cooler. The fluid gets pretty hot on the track (especially at Taupo) and it is not uncommon for it to squrit out the reservoir cap. I am using an auto trans cooler mounted in the drivers side guard - seems to do the trick.

Bang on, better heat diassapation. The only problem I ever had with the Subaru 4 pots is that the discs are too thin and cannot handle the heat as well and they crack rather easily - I did 3 sets of discs at 3 events Hence why I changed to the Brembos. [quote name='loren said: for shear stopping power I have never had any doubts about the subaru 4 pots. Agree, no complaints about their stopping power - as above, it was only the discs that let me down.

Tony (ex R0NIN) Manfeild: 1.13.74 - NZGT Round 2, Nov 08 Taupo (Track 1): 1.41.38 NZGT Round 4, Jan 09 And if it matters/counts - my mrs, Alana (in my car), Manfeild: 1.21.44 - 4 & Rotary Jamboree, March 09.

rally is not nearly as bad as circuit (on sticky tyres), they slide a lot on gravel! The good old water test will tell you what you need to know - fill a stock sump with water, hold it in your hands and move it side to side in large quick movements, then see how much water comes out (and goes all over you!)

nah not GCP, the dyno we used was DDT in New Plymouth. That is with 20psi/1.4 bar, gets full boost at 4000rpm (now that I changed to the 0.63 turbine housing). I guess the number doesnt sound too impressive considering, but in the real world, my car has not let me down Its only a number at the end of the day......