Tony

Went to the Playday at Hampton Downs today - did 1.11.82. Bigger balls (not fast enough around turn 1) and a few more laps there should see 1.10s. Oh, also did a 1.39.9 on Taupo Track 1 a little while ago.

Yeah, you dont really need those ones if you replace the whole bush. The factory bushes move a lot, and that is the main cause of the sometimes loud "thump" when you change gears. Fitting either those spacers, or the full replacement bushes solves that problem. [quote name='funkytown said: not replaced either of those from factory though so unknown on their results alone or in tandem. You should definitely consider changing them - there is a lot of movement in the factory bushes (expecially old worn original ones) that it gets quite noticable when pushing the car through corners. I found replacing these makes the rear of the car feel a lot more direct and positive.

One set presses into the rear subframe to replace the crap factory bushes (with the voids) that are really sloppy. The mounting studs in the rear diff go through these bushes to hold it to the subframe. The other set replace the outer bushes in the "T" bar (or outrigger) which is the front part of the rear diff mount. They sit right near the inner side of sills just in front of the rear wheels. (the part on the right of the pic below) funky - pics added for clarity.

I have one here from a GDB, it is 11/16"

Yeah thats the one.

We have been using the lava rock heat wrap from Pro Wholesale lately and its really good. Havent had any issues with it on any of the cars we have done. Good price too

I\'ll leave that up to the owner (will let him know). I was just trying to spread the word here in case anyone had seen anything.

Yeah, there has been no further word on the complete car being found, so I\'d say its most certainly in bits now. Although the owner tells me he does have a few leads (his neighbours have security cameras and could see the car being taken in the footage...)

What Rob said is pretty much the cause 90% of the time when people take their road cars to track days. They stay out there for a whole session beating on the car. Generally this is more laps than an actual sprint race! While having good pads and fluid certainly helps, there just isnt enough capacity in those rotors to take the prolonged heat generated lap after lap. Add some brake ducting to help, or just dont do as many laps per session. If you want to build some really effective ducts, you need to seal the back of the rotor off so that all the air you are forcing in goes to the centre of the hat, so it can be forced out the vanes and provide even cooling. I dont know if you want to go this far or not, but it is the best way to keep the discs cool... here is how I did mine: Its a lot easier to do this on Subarus as their front caliper is in the trailing position rather than leading. Just have to be careful when running the duct hose, as on the drivers side, it will be very close to the headers and can get burnt/damaged easily. Fixed

Is that David Cooper\'s car (I think that was his name)? The mods look familiar to a Murtaya we did some work on early last year.

Yeah its a real shame for him He was into drag racing and I dont even think he got the chance to take it to the strip and see what it could do after all these mods. Not liking the chances of it showing up in one piece sadly :\'(

I have just heard from one of our customers that his car was stolen either late last night or early this morning from outside his house (Boorman Road) in Hamilton. It is a 96 WRX, black, with a very ummm, you could say "interesting" widebody kit (see pics below). Number plate: BJN185. Looks aside, this car has a very big dollar, highly modified engine set-up (420kw atw) which we recently finished, and a lot of other decent bits on it. I would expect that it would possibly be stripped for parts as the body itself would be quite noticible. It was on the silver and black 18 inch wheels when stolen (wheels in second pic). Some items of interest that may pop up for sale so keep an eye out: 2.5 litre motor w/ AVCS heads (all the good sh*t in this motor). Exedy twin plate clutch kit. 6 Speed gearbox (non DCCD) and R180 rear end. Race Fab Polished inlet manifold. 1400cc top feed injectors. Garrett GT3582 ceramic BB turbo, 0.82 turbine housing (housing has some distinct markings which would make it easily identifiable), anti-surge compressor. SSI headers plus custom made SS up-pipe to suit Garrett turbo, with 44mm Tial V-band wastegate. Yellow D2 8 Pot front brakes, and yellow painted Brembo 2 pot rears. Red Bride race seats. If anyone in the Hamilton area has seen/knows anything in relation to this, drop me a message and I can put you in touch with the owner. Cheers.

Sorry man, not much help as I have no experience with double adjustable suspension. All I was told (by Al) when I was considering buying the set you now have, was to go a test day, and start at one end of adjustment settings, do a few laps, come back in, change them to the opposite end, do more laps.. then repeat, in small steps through various settings until you know exactly what the settings do and how they feel/make the car react, then try and find a setting that works best for your particular driving style/track/use etc. Pretty much a very time consuming process unfortunatley What you describe happening might be due to your suspension being very sensitive and it can react far better than your usual run of the mill coilovers? Could be worth paying Al a visit and seeing if he has any recommendations for starting points?

Yes, those are the correct injectors to suit V1-4, with the correct collars (top left in that pic). The main issue I had with my ones is the half assed o-rings that Sard supplied with them - they are crap and not really the right size, I had a few problems with fuel leaking into the cylinders past the o-rings. I ended up changing out all the o-rings to decent viton ones of the correct size (to fit in the rail properly) then they were all good. From memory, I also had to cut the small rubber bushes in half (that sit in the injector caps) as, like you say, they are a bit taller on the top than the factory injectors. I will check my computer at home tonight and see if I have any pics of my old injectors and what they should look like with the correct o-rings...

Get the Mitchell Motorsport or Macbilt sump... Will be more than $1000, but well worth it. Both those options are proven on NZ\'s quickest circuit subarus so you know they work well.

I had a set, thrashed them for a couple of years, hit ripple strips, slid off the track etc.. they were fine. Im sure Jon owns them now? (I sold them to Loren a few years ago). BT runs Rotas as well and as far as I know he hasnt had any issues with them, and there are many drift guys running them (and they are pretty rough on sh*t!) edit: too slow lol! got distracted while typing!

Hey Mark, just wanted to say there may be a wee bit of confusion going on as Dave/Dtech did not tune Hamish\'s car. Dyno Power most likely did the whole job on that one.

whoops :-[ sorry about that, hope you didnt get in too much trouble!

We can do them for you $20 + GST per injector (+ $6 courier back to you) - so $98 in total. If keen drop me a PM for details.

Yeah its pretty simple, and the whole system takes a lot less fluid than you would probably have thought. Front bumper is off the shelf/trademe (Chargepeed style?), but I had to modify it to make it fit. Was pretty average quality, and I think possibly for a widebody as it wouldnt fit to my guards so did a bit of a cut and shut to make it work.

I do mine quite regularly (to keep the fluid fresh). I\'ve found 1 litre to be plenty if filling from dry, and usually have a bit left over. This is on a GC8 (with 6 piston front and 2 piston rear calipers though - standard calipers I\'d guess you\'d need around 750ml if that???).

Ahhh gotcha, you must have one of those weird GC hubs that has the tone ring as part of the hub rather than on the CV! Yeah, that wont work for you then unfortunately The GC hubs that I was using had the sensor pointing into the CV as well - sorry for confusing you, I totally forgot that there were those other type ones floating around! If you get a new bearing, be sure to check out the drive flange once it is pressed out to make sure there is no damage to the stub, as it is common for them to get quite worn/eaten when the bearings go (especially if they have been driven on for a while before actually replacing the bearing).

Yeah, the castings are the same for the front uprights and drive flanges have the same spline count. You can use either the larger CV 6 speed (5x100) axles or the earlier 5 speed ones in either type. [quote name='Dangeruss said: Cool so the abs sensor will be the right size? Seeing as the sensor is looking at a different point on both hubs thought it may not work..? It *should* be the same size (well most of the subaru ABS sensors I have seen from various models are anyway). You say its looking at a different point - so one is sitting in or out further than the other? If so, then you will run into issues, as I said above, you have to make sure that the sensor is in line with the tone ring on the CV. I have used ABS hubs from various models before, but my cars have never had ABS so never really took much notice of the actual position of the sensor location point sorry... maybe someone who has investigated it more can give you a definate answer on that part.

Doesnt matter for the front man! They all the same.

It will bolt on, and fit perfectly fine (they are the same dimensionally etc)... just have to make sure the ABS sensor lines up to the ABS ring on your CV then it will be all good.