Marky

I fully endorse everything above I also have a decat primary going for $free shortly too

Like I said, take a bus, there's your legal solution As for me speeding, do you see me asking on an internet forum "Wheres the cops at I want to see if the needle goes back to 0" and getting annoyed at the replies For what it's worth the wife gives me a world of grief about driving like a nana, and I haven't had a ticket for the past ten years and give-or-take 1mil km of driving

Fine the answer is: No you don't lose your qualification, however the point of having paid for and then taking the course is wasted so it's a moot point Cop stops between Aucks and Matamata, none, it's a state highway. However it's a very heavily policed one, and a crowd of young guys in a WRX is always one bound to attract more attention than the average bear. Those super long straights mean speed radars will work a lot better than your eyes will remember

You dumbass For what it's worth, you don't get the course "revoked" but that said you obviously didn't pay attention to it anyway Take a bus, it's cheaper than the petrol cost and zero risk

Just buy a tactrix cable www.evoscan.com

Oh, yes, exactly that. Well, 0-2v Bascially it goes big difference - then switchover - then no difference (equal pressures). It reads between 0.6 and 2.0v but for whatever reason shows up with rando numbers on the graph Does show how quick it jumps from single to twin. Power curve however doesn't notice it and boost dips maybe 3psi tops? Can't feel it on the road

Got the graph to show boost plot now too, neat. Also figured out how to input my cars' weight and gear ratios so it *should* be more or less accurate, ish, as much as a virtual one can be On the lower graph the dotty line is manifold pressure, the solid line is the output from the differential sensor What's a VOD?

It doesn't matter, I think the differences are only cosmetic and an different ECU tune between them. Your chassis code will say either BE5D or BE5E, it's pretty easy to answer the Q To answer the question, no, at least not on here. They seem to run fine in single turbo config, if you're going to unplug things then do it one at a time as removing a lot of sensors will trigger fault codes and limp mode Just do the hardware change first and wing it from there, if your mech has already done this swap then he surely has the wiring sussed as well?

I've never seen factory sat nav in a B4 Does it actually work properly?

What it sounds like it's doing is pulling boost back because it's picking up an issue, likely too much knock What you could do, if you wanted, is rig up a test light inline with the boost control solenoid - that will tell you if it's actually being pulsed or not. If it IS being pulsed, but boost isn't rising, then the problem lies with the solenoid being faulty (either not operating or just being gummed stuck) If it ISN'T being pulsed, then there's a fault somewhere which is making the car go into limp mode - that said, it does work at times so we can rule that out by the sounds of it If it SOMETIMES is pulsed, that means there isn't a fault as such but an issue the ECU is picking up sometimes making it run wastegate pressure only. Normal culprit is excess knock, and boost is reduced as a last ditch effort to save the motor If all you want to do is wind the boost up then seriously go buy a $20 boost tap, run the hose from turbo to tap to wastegate, job done, problem solved. The purpose of the factory boost control system isn't so much as a way to run the boost they want from the factory - if they wanted that then you'd just see a 14psi spring in the actuator and that's it - the purpose of it is so the ECU has the ability to pull boost when required

Man you're getting way too focussed on making it run a random boost number you want it to, and ignoring the fact there's obviously some form of fault with the car Trying to wind boost into it may make it go good but it won't fix the problem and will likely just kill it If it's working at times, but sometimes making itself pull boost back, then there is a reason for it

If yours is aus delivered then it's a rev E? Aussie only got that one, rev D is jdm / nzdm only (mine was NZ new) I haven't tried the "wrx rom on a legacy ECU" thing yet - it may or may not be a workaround, but don't want to rick nerfing my only ecu finding out. I'm assuming it'd work fine unless there's any change in pinouts between WRX and B4 ecu's To be fair if your mechanic has done these before he can give you -all- the information you're asking for Also I wouldn't bother with the EBC, the factory ECU can do as good a job if not better Also what's that lip off? (well... air dam haha)

Yeah but has no turbo noises OR scoop To be fair the prices on these cars is all over the place - you can find very very similar models (km and age wise) for 5-8k price differences so definately shop around. You could always buy a 3l auto daily cruiser and a spare GC8 hack for lol duties? Drive both models, and if you have ideas of making it more go-fast then go the turbo model. With minor mods (as in, tune and exhaust) then they make the same numbers everywhere, but the 2L obviously has a whole lot more scope for tinkering once you factor in the usual upgrades. To be fair if it were me I'd buy a cheap manual turbo pre-facelift wagon, and spend the $4-5k saved over the later one on gaining 150hp and a decent proper headunit rather than trying to bastardise bluetooth etc to work with the stock bits. But hey, it's your moneys - just go drive them all and you'll know pretty quick And don't even consider the 2l or 2.5 n/a ones

$0.50c says you got soapy water on the airflow meter element (Isn't the boost cut on these all of 12psi or so?)

How does he know it was running all four? These things idle convincingly on three Guessing it's a subaru of some sort I'm guessing the AFM or maybe fuel pump shat itself?

Work in progress, and ignore the numbers - I have no idea if the ratios / weights etc are right and it is a virtual dyno afterall, I could have drawn these in Paint haha (it should be right +/- a few HP to be fair based on airflow and other cars) Before - stock ECU tune Now - this is a quick log on the way to and from work, backed off early on the blue one for one of those pesky roundabouts hence the early peak and fall. Red run was car up to temp in the morning but having seen no boost - genuinely do feel it perk up after getting woken up once or twice. Blue run shows this as it was just after the motorway. Suffice to say that other than the change in exhaust note and mild bump of torque, you can't pick it as being a sequential twin anymore

You should just get this instead, will work out cheaper I imagine (though it'll need an oil temp sender) http://www.subaruspeed.co.nz/collections/interior/products/lamco-guage-cluster-black-face

I have a spare gauge you can have, it even says apexi so it must be super accurate I'll have it and the cable in the car most days if you want to steal (or I'll drop it home)

Go drive one and find out Tiptronic is a gimmick in almost anything - exception being proper go fast autos like your R35 and the like Leave it in D and it'll go better unless you have a real desire to limiter bash I've driven a few auto wrx's and for a daily they are fine, I'm a bit of a fan of auto turbo for round town sort of cars. Outright pace sure the manual is quicker, but there's some merit in being able to eat a pie, text and steer with your knees all at once while still having a bit of go To be fair I wouldn't call an impreza much of a wagon though - a BP legacy gtb is a much better all-rounder in my eyes, it has size, and comfort on it's side and still goes as well if not better than the baby rex

No you don't need it by any stretch

Just leave it at my place, it'll be sweet bowl

What's your question as such about it?

Yeah mang, just add in a 2:1 reg and you got 25psi all daeee haha Just ignore those noises like gravel on tin, it's like engine happy sound

Yerrp, can fiddle with most parameters. Not quite errthang but between the several ecu definitions I have now (which is like, translations of the code) I think it's totally configurable once I combine them all together and make them work nicely. One thing which is interesting (to me anyway) is it has two totally separate maps for intercooler valve open or closed, for fuel and timing both. That pressure valve opening is a deliberate thing in the stock tune too, explains why most b4 dyno charts nosedive at about 6200. Can even tell it to disable or ignore any differential sensor faults to run single turbo on this ecu without having to do any wiring or hardware changes. So much for rev d being the hard one to convert, if anything I'd say it's the opposite if that works fine Ill post up some more info this weekend, like a real marky diy spec guide to basic flash fiddling... It's not as scary as a lot think, just need patience and common sense