lachlan

question to all you sick puppies who are passionate about the twin turbo setup i know how it works and how to modify blah blah . car is 1994 gt auto with 256 on the clock . stock as a rock . my mum owned it for the last 10 years and drove it nana as all hell ive got it now as a daily . it goes all good but i think the primary turbo is really sad . it feels like it is seized eg foot half down car is lame as fuck then all of a sudden it goes "oh shit ill make boost and go now " ive just pulled the intercooler off for a fiddle and i noticed whan i started the car up it blows no air out of the primary turbo to ic pipe . then give it a rev and some huffs out then stops again . asthough turbo has stopped again its also quite winey when it does do something thinking about it its obvoiusly time to replace it isnt it ? its a vf13 . should i replace it with a 13 or is it worth putting anything else on ? cbf changing both anyone got a decent one for sale .

best to take it to the place the machines them . theyll tell you for free

yeah like i see late model land barges getting round with fully blacked out head lights also seen a nothing special wrx getting round with lots of 555 stickers and yellow window tint and yelloy head lights . think its one of those try your luck things

think you need to think about it a bit more . the plumbing doesnt make more or less blow by . the rings do the plumbing affects it after this

pushed it out the way . looked for the knock sensor to show someone where it was . cant see it . pushed it back once id finished playing with the boat

you can currently get cert for engine conversions with no cat if it didnt have one orignally . eg s13

can point you to somewhere real good who does cv and likes cash on a saturday . will have stock

not to mention all the benefits of bore washing ...

yep 10 times more volume / a way longer path for the air to rebound / cycle back and forward and chuff out comp wheel

that wont kill a turbo in no time lots of drift cars dont run them and rape them for seasons compressor surge with more than 1 psi across it will wear out a thrust bearing faster . bb turbos tend not to care

11.1 afrs on a turbo 8.5 to 1 comp motor ? : thought wed moved on from the 60s

lean to spool turbo . dont argue every tuner tunes anything for 12.5 on full power . subys are way lower com than most things anyway na cars get tuned for 13.0 under full power which is atmospheric pressure in intake manifold so when your boost gauge passes 0 you want 13.0 to

id aim for 12.5 on full load 13.o on 0 boost your timing sounds crude bu effective (ish) your car is probobly richer that 10.0 but must things wont read it .

you could kinda just put your own micro switch on it . the interrupts coil power . with a by pass switch so you can byass it when your not racing . i believe someone whos cracked the ecus has utiliced this switch for launch controll .

very

4.5 kg chromoly fw exedy sprung centre 4 puk and race cover loves it mind you i know how to drive and dont do anything that would smash the box . well i do helis but with the hand brake and on a launch it keeps traction untill car has moved about a car length then spins the wheels as clutch is fully out and boost is biulding but im led to believe ra gearboxes tend to put up with more of a hiding . maybe due to different teeth counts or better steel just dont side step the clutch pedal and itll be mint . driving like a retard breaks stuff . not puk ckutches

all those sidefeed injectors from nissan and subaru are the same plug minus the lil wings on the side of the clip that do nothing on the injector body . just cut them off

not entirely stupid but not thread worthy either what is the airflow /hp limit of a orange afm ? as in at what hp is it nudging 5v? tuned . not stock

tomei do make ineffective items high quality yes . effective not always tomei prolly has a decent cooling system too . not a water tank in the engine bay

stupid idea . would be no where as effective as even the stock one this is only excuse for putting a inter cooler in such a location . unlimited supply of cold water limited packaging 1100 hp 1000lb weight and god damn the hippie spec undercarrige is rank turbo looks like its from 1986 comp wheel needs some fins shortened so its not chocking infront of it

removed the heavey as fuck apexi steel fmic pipes and put on a water intercooler core . and found a suitable tank for ice reservior at k mart . orederd DW 200 fuel pump 5.5 k in 5th yeah thats getting up there . could be lots of things and its not that easy to diagnose traded some jds for a gear set .

all the pull type 5 speed is the same

teh knock sensor will know straight away fi it has 91 in it and pull timing drastically and you end up with a sluggish feeling gas gizzler . yeah i guess you paid for what you got . surely you could have got parts at trade price through someone ? a pretty easy way to 90% bleed the coolant system is jack the front way up and run it with rad cap off and take turns squeezing the heater hoses as much as you can then release . trying to encourage water to circulate through heater

1700 for cambelt and seals ? fk me . which seals ? i think you would have noticed if it was 2 teeth out before coz it would have run like shit and would have had error cores because the timing triggers wouldnt have lined up . although you can run 91 your achieving nothing well its costing you more to have a much slower car . do a comparison between how many kays you get out of a tank of each . for the $5 is costs to get 98 youll do far more kays out of a tank and your car will feel much faster for less right foot

half the problem is if you try to google anything about them you find everysingle car forum has them and all of them say its not good and it will blow up . but in reality i have seen plenty of cars with them in and they go good . like on one hand yes it is a blanket upgrade but on the other hand mines dont make shit do they ? its a pretty safe bet to rock it . youd soon notice if it was not right . and yeah chuck it on they dyno when it suits