QBALLZ

Once your into the motions of pulling the box it's simple. The odd hold up might be stuck dowels between box and motor and or the odd stiff bolt but in all way easier than any FWD or evo box.

For all the effort its going to take to get the magnets, inspection plates off I would rather seperate the box and motor. That way youll be able to inspect propery for any damage to the ring gear. But maybe start with pulling the starter, rotating the motor, then if nothing, crack it open. Better to be safe, then sorry. Good luck champ.

Just paid and picked up Prodrive lip off jpar196. Definatley the look im after. Will post apic once it's on.

Well its supposed to be a WRX but without cracking the motor open im not sure. I run the 5speed nz new gearbox, I never launch it but not shy on feeding the herb into it. Doubt it will take much more power, as its making a few noises, but shifts fine. Biggest abuse would engine braking with the 6 puck and 5kg fly wheel. ;D

I know this is an old post, buuut im going to post on here anyway ;D My bug eye is the first gen GDA and is at 220km. Pretty sure the previous owner either had the internals freshened up or it was lovingly cared for, but judging by the uber clean cam seals and colured sealant in places im assuming it has been cracked open. She is currently running 193kw at the wheels on 1.1bar, tuned, and still purrs like a kitten-no knocking, rattles, ticking(touch-wood) etc. I say treat em mean but keep em clean. Services and good tuning go a long way. Just my thoughts.

Yeah sounds like he"really" knew what he was doing lol. I wonder how many poor people have gone away with your same situation :-\

+1

Definitely get that boot on there, sucks ass when you get in out from the rain, go to stop with wet shoes and ping off comes your foot. Enough to put a parcel in your back pocket

Well "Red" got a birthday, new oil, filter, plugs. and cleaned up a couple things. I decided to run with some Bosch platinums that i got from SuperCheap for $30. Decided against running Iridiums as ill be looking at changing them every oil change and checking the state of my tune. I will keep an eye the Bosch plugs as there doesn't seem to be much feedback here on them. If any one has run them, i'd be keen on there findings ;D

+1as for the cooling you could run small 4" fans on top of the cooler to push the hot air down and away. I have thought about running this set up in my car once i go to the FMIC.

i reckon try that o2 sensor. Another thing that i've experiencedin evo race cars was ground wires from the engine gearbox, cyl head etc not being adequate causing weird problems. Its a bit left field but have a look any way. Is it cutting in just one gear or is it random?

what psi is it cutting at. Have you replaced your o2 with another one to see if it helps?

gave Red a clean, polish, vacumed and redone the glass clear-a must in the Winter rain!

freshened up the calipers and gave em a new colour. Never been one to paint calipers but sick of the ugly black. Oh for some gold brembos ;D

Tidy work mate

I have done my time as an Auto Refinisher so i thought i'd throw my 2c in, i dont mean to offend just giving some tips that i have been taught/discovered ;D If your paint is in good to great nick 99% of the time the product choice for washing wont make a difference. The main thing you want is correct technique from the start! DO NOT use brushes on paintwork!! Always give the body a solid firm hose/spray before touching it with any sponge/mittens, too many people do not spend enough time with the pre hosing to dislodge any debri that will scratch the S$&^% out of the paint when it gets caught in the weave of your chosen cloth/mitten/sponge. Always start at the roof and wash down, also as im sure everyone knows dont wash in the sun, or when the car is hot-you will become the proud owner of a water droplet stained car- i have seen this a million times!!! Always shammy the car dry afterwards, it will always look better. As for waxing/reglossing the clear or just protecting your weapon, again technique is the winner here. There are soooo many companys out there claiming to have the "best product" but IMO it will depend on the age of your paint, and how much effort/time you want to throw at it. If your lucky enough to own a base coat/clear coat paint job (mettalics etc) be vey very careful when putting any kind of cutting compound on. The more you cut the more microns of clear you rub through, in some cases it's worth getting professional help so they can 're-flow' your clear with a buffer. If you have a solid colour (2k,1k,HB) cuuting the misty colour away with a MILD cutting compound then waxing it up will be all you will need to keep her looking sharp for months. The same does apply for BC/CC as to solids the more you cut the more paint you cut off so be careful. Like i said before it's not always the best product but is always the best technique that will keep everything looking SHARP!! Also keep your beast well maintained, don't leave bird doo doo on the paint to stain, clean any mud etc off straight away and keep her waxed up, i do mine atleast once a month to keep the paint in tune and looking bayyyutifool. ;D One final tip of overly long speil is the bucket- keep your car cleaning bucket seperate, do not rinse dirty water back in the bucket-squeeze it out on to the ground and rinse and ensure each time your mitten/cloth/sponge touches your car it doesn't have any dirt on it or you will get the 'ol swirl effect' in your nice paint work. I know it's not quite car cleaning PRODUCT related but atleast i may stop one person from the poor paint-care maddness i see destroying great paint jobs everyday!! ;D

I will get some pics of my bay up over the weekend, nothing special but worth throwing up for some feedback ;D

8)very nice set up, love the clean lines and how the I/Manny lines up in the bay. Good work dude!!

I just had a G4 installed and my IAT sensor was welded to the underside of the TMIC. It is a larger A/M unit so more room to weld and we used the link weld-in boss. Works all good!

Well picked the car up the Tuesday night from the workshop, have spent a couple days running around to and from work. Got dynoed at 193kw ATW on 15psi, which i thought was pretty low but as it's a non sti non forged block, and daily driven i'm not too keen on pushing much more through it. But seat of the pants it feels pretty good. Got to get it sorted for a warrant this weekend, a couple things need sorting :-\

Well i thought i'd update the progress with the injectors. We ended up machinging the tabs off and in they went!! SOOO if any one gets stuck in the same position as i did they can be modified without any hassles. ;D

+1 for the WD40 treatment. Once you get the top mount off and the bolts are loosened, the next hardest thing i found was the 02 sensor, but again the wd40 treatment should be fine. Don't forget to unbolt the drivers side engine mount and jack the engine up slightly. This will help to give you space to pull the up-pipe out. Apart from that it's all good. ;D

Have a crack at it yourself matey, trawl through the threads and jump on you tube for info. It's reasonably easy, just takes a bit of research to save yourself some time. And the satisfaction from doing things yourself is addictive. And you cant really screw it up too badly. ;D

haven't heard anything as of yet, but no news is good news as far as im concerned. I will check in on things tomorrow, they're pretty good with things and Grady is a good bloke to deal with.

found this on the net, this is the difference between the two manifolds unsure of the exact models but this is the issue when choosing injectors for ver 7- wish i had found this before buying injectors ???oh well my mistake some one else can learn from it ;D