tebbyj

Sorry to revive an old topic but i found this via the HDI website and thought it might be of use to anyone who owns one/is looking at buying one. The installation guide to the HDI Boost controller type D-SE: (their top model) www2.hybrid-power.com/installation/installation/sbc-d-sejpg.pdf Looks like they have a actual boost reference, all you loose out on is the gain and scramble settings you get on other more expensive models. It says it has Temperature compensation and closed loop boost regulation also...

I have one from a 97 Wrx which may do the job. Looks like this one. Am in welly but can ship asap. PM if your keen

I like it, its very audish. I imagine the STI will have a wider stance and look all the more meaner and subaruish.

Mitsi\'s GDI is renowned for carbon build up as well. especially when run on lower octane fuel. I want to learn more about this Pseudo Adiabatic Technology they are using for cooling, everything I can find is very vague.

That really doesn\'t sound good. Was the coolant level low at all? also did you get a Check engine light?

Had this problem on a GTB and it was the hoses from the top tank were around the wrong way (One goes back to rad from top tank and one goes from cap to overflow bottle) if you\'ve taken them off its very easy to put them back wrong, so the cooling system cant pressurize properly. But if there right then to me sounds like a blown HG sorry mate.

I think it sounds like bump steer, where bumps in the road have an effect of steering. Putting the new wheels and tires on changes the steering axis inclination angles and the scrub radius this in combination with the stiff sideways of the tyre (like boon describes) probably makes the problem more noticeable. Check all steering components for free play and try lowering your tyre pressures slightly. Also try getting your wheel alignment adjusted to compensate for the larger wheels it should help out a little.

I thought TD04 nz new cars had grey injectors... i may be wrong What were the plugs you pulled out like? wet, oily, carbonated or anything like that?

Tricky one... Black smoke suggests its over fueling, you\'ve checked fuel pressure and flow i\'m guessing that all checked out. Did it start doing it randomly one day or did you get hold of it like this? Has it got the right injectors for the ECU being nz new they are smaller from memory? are they all working correctly? Fuel pump pumping properly? O2 sensors have a large effect on subys before replacing it try checking it with a graphing multi meter (if available) and check cross count vs voltage readings. Other than that all i can think of is a wiring issue somewhere...

I\'ve been with club auto for awhile now, haven\'t had to make a claim but with all other dealings they have been great. Even when someone scraped my car in a car-park and i just managed to get there rego, Clubauto were happy to give me there details (even though they shouldn\'t have and it wasn\'t covered under my policy).

I FOUND THE ULTIMATE OIL, ITS THE ANSWER TO ALL YOUR OIL QUESTIONS!! http://www.chief-oil.com/chicasaw-wrx.html Available here: http://www.supercheapauto.co.nz/online-store/products/Chief-Chicasaw-WRX-Engine-Oil-5W-30-5-Litre.aspx?pid=344495&menuFrom=60104#Cross Its WRX oil !! LOL Caution this oil "may or may not" be at all related to Subaru in any way shape or form and I highly doubt its the answer to all your questions

+1 ripco is useless at just about everything...

haha it is a topic every one has different opinions on. My WRX has 160 on it now and i use 5w/40 in it (recommended 5w/30 but went to a 40 because of ks) anything 40 will be fine in yours id imagine. My opinion stay with the 5w/40.

This is true, and it does tell you that the battery is the problem most 99% of the time. Another way is to connect a voltmeter to the battery and see if the voltage drops under moderate load ie rear-demist + headlights on high beam. A sort of makeshift not very accurate load tester so to speak.

Do you have a strut brace? have had it where the intercooler was hitting the strut brace at the weirdest of times and making what felt like suspension noise. Just something to check. The other thing it sounds like it could be to me is sway bar D bushes under the car, quiet common on falcons. Knocking noises are a tricky one have seen many a mechanic get lost trying to find them had hundreds myself i couldn\'t find. Had one 3 specialist Jaguar techs couldn\'t find ended up being the battery sliding around knocking on its mounts, so it pays to check the little things as well.

+1 either give that battery a good charge up on a charger or new battery time.

Awesome design for an engine, if they can utilize a variable compression ratio and running on diesel it would do wonders for emissions in modern vehicles. Hope its not going to end up on the shelf like a lot of the other ones do.

Have you done both the D bushes on the swaybar? Have seen heaps that look okay but make the exact same noise your describing. Only at slow speed usually when turning. Its like a clunky rattly noise, sounds like its coming from by your feet (ish).

Sorry to hear man, hope it comes back to ya, was it insured? I had an M60G in my subi that was attempted stolen, and that was definitely not by a professional.I think its more on the install of the alarm than the alarm itself but in saying that id never have another mongoose alarm there rubbish.

I think it will just go until your next warrant after July is a 12 month one. My next WOF will expire on the 20th of june on my 01 WRX hahaha Might need a few days to get some stuff sorted until july...

WISH ID SEEN THIS EARLIER!! YOUR THE MAN!!

Just to clear up when it will come into effect

Is a rip off is what it is, Its just a VAG-COM cable and a CD with Free SSM loaded on it. The Vag-com cable can be bought on ebay for less than $10 and Free SSM is just that Free. Just google Free SSM and a download link will be there somewhere. The software itself is actually quite good i use it regularly.

Check for fault codes: To get the ABS light to blink out the trouble codes do the following: Find the black diagnostic plug under the dash by the gas pedal. There should be two loose wire taped to the loom. these are the diagnostic terminals. Connect one of the diagnostic terminals (loose wire) to pin number 6 (bottom right looking at plug) Turn the key to ON It will always flash the "start code" first which will be 11. Which is one long (1 second) and one short (.3 seconds) flash. After that it should flash the rest of the codes. The first number will be long flashes and the second will be short flashes. So 21 will be two long and one short flash. It can only store up to three codes and it will repet the code flashing three times so if you miss it the first time be patient. Codes are as follows: Abnormal ABS sensor, open circuit or voltage too high 21 – front right ABS sensor 23 – front left ABS sensor 25 – rear right ABS sensor 27 – rear left ABS sensor Abnormal ABS sensor, abnormal ABS sensor signal 22 – front right ABS sensor 24 – front left ABS sensor 26 – rear right ABS sensor 28 – rear left ABS sensor 29 – any one of four Abnormal solenoid valve circuits in ABS control module and hydraulic unit 31 – Front right inlet valve 32 – Front right outlet valve 33 – Front left inlet valve 34 – Front left outlet valve 35 – Rear right inlet valve 36 – Rear right outlet valve 37 – Rear left inlet valve 38 – Rear left outlet valve 41 – Abnormal ABS control module 42 – Source voltage is abnormal 44 – A combination of AT control abnormal 51 – Abnormal valve relay 52 – Abnormal motor and/or motor relay 54 – Abnormal stop light switch 56 – Abnormal G sensor output voltage Should give you an idea whats going on.

What do you mean by virtually no reverse? as in it engages and just flares really badly or it doesn\'t engage at all? I would try getting the trans power flushed 1st with a wynns transmission flush machine, if that doesn\'t fix it, new box time... again haha