marc

Spent some time tacking slip joints on the car then removed the slip joint holders and tigd up the joins completely. Re positioned the o2 sensor port and did some heat wraping (up pipe too). Yet to see if the wrap made any dif to power : but sure will keep some heat away from my oil filter and sump ;D. Also did a quick turbo somparison shot of bolt on Apexi AX53B70 vs VF34

The driver looks a little irrisponsible I have its look alike twin just no DTM's

Ill ask a guy I know (not a close person I see much) but has an evo2 on spray that does 10.1 and know has a wof/reg. Be interesting when it drops into the 9's tho! (his aim he reckns) lol. If i get hold of him ill post the info here

True thats the car lol little enki 15's or similar lol. Goes very well now with the built B18c block and b18cr head. Also did a Sinco mani and some other stuff. shoud be good for 270+ wkw now with some bigger injectors and a re tune or a plug in G4 with a tune! Traction is always an issue then i started braking inner CV's! you can get nice half shafts from the US now days tho...werent around when I was having issues lol

Silver EK sedan by any chance? forgot about that car if it is, A friends brother owns it back home and yeah has a masterpower turbo and runs mint, no smoke and as a very rapid car..

Nah lol but id like to see them go thru the mackaz drive thru like a real street car hahah :

Yea it sucks... Never found the car or the people who stole it. Bastards fuk sucks it got stolen man,i bet that woulda hauld ass. how much did he spend on the motor,got a mate of mine with a 2000 ek civic type r he's keen as to turbo it. It hauled ass alright... Id hate to think how much he spent on it... a good 6g on the setup and rebuild then all the other bits and pieces on top of that.. Tell him not to bother with those cheap 'turbo kits' on trademe and s***... Hard I did my DC2 Type R bout 5 years ago. Spent s*** loads but made 270wkw and was an absolute handfull at the best of times lol. Btw on the master power side of things I once saw a supra at NSDW when i was running and he had one, was doing low 11s that night but had a 10sec club sticker on the back windo so must be capable of going faster. (dont think your alowd to do 10s at NSDW as a street car tho as cage rules or somthing similar)

yeah neva mind the "9k bumper" lol just screw some prodrive caps onto your bumper ;D. Nd im sure mitsi trucks have roof scoops that could be had for cheep Always keep an eye on the general subi sti market lol

The prodrives do tend to fetch abit more (yeah not always but the majority of them are 16k ish for a nice one on trademe but then u do get the odd one like the on on hea for 12k but kms etc getn a tad up there tho. Lots of cheep v7 sti's on trademe but look at the prodrives...not so many cheep ones at all. Your always going to get the desperate guy wanting to cash up no matter what you own. The question is how many of the desperate ppl own prodrives so the chances of a cheep one are less. But agree with pappu sad market at the mo +5 lol. I am yet to see one got for 10k that hasnt been defaced like this one lol. and yes under 240,000kms lol Real ones on t.m atm: http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/subaru/wrx/auction-393403374.htm http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/subaru/impreza/auction-388533888.htm http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/subaru/wrx/auction-393088029.htm http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/subaru/wrx/auction-392581873.htm - the one off here +1 to the cartoon too lol

1.5 bar is 22psi. Bit much boost if you ask me even spiking that on a stock v7 STI isant a good idea (not wow guna pop in 2 secs flat but sure wont be the best for it). 1.1-1.3 bar max is about what it should run up in the revs. Dangeruss is yours spiking 1.5 or running a solid 1.5 bar towards redline?? Id go with the GFB tap idea and try set a solid 1.2 bar and therefor will prol spike to around 1.3-1.35 in 4/5/6th at low revs high load which is ok. as mentioned above 1.5 bar spike wont kill your car....wel lnstantly anyway, maby over time but id still get it looked at/sorted. What ive said is assuming your car is stock or close to.. no remap,Fuel pump etc

No doubt some of you have seen this or better clips but man i thought this car deservs a watch/mention for thoes of you who like abit of track time ;D. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MUvJceCkjRw&NR=1

Main reason I said what I did is I have a set VERY similar to these too and required twin scroll sump setup to fit . Maddad ones not RCM but 99.5% identical in design shape etc.

Nice...but your still screwd for thoes unles you can find a V8 on twin scroll sump, oil pickup, windage tray, dipstick tube and dipsitck. I just did the conversion and wasnt as strght forward as some made out to be lol. Not just headers, lines, turbo, downpipe and sump.(altho in its own adds up pretty quick and if you can find etc) Then above bits and up pipe bracket too. Not that much extra parts but enough to do your head in especially after trying to find a bloody twin scroll factory sump! Wana look again??? yeah I know it says "not twin scroll" but to me it looks like the two RH banks pipes would be pretty damn close if not to close to a normal old school sump! Got some pics to say otherwise? not tryna argue just making sure as if I bought them and no one said anything then they hit my sump whos pain in the ass is it going to be then... Ps ADIKT ive heard of people bending the origianl pickups to be work with the twin scroll sump and also cutting and re marking the original dipstick to twin scroll one length but im just stating whts required to do the version 8 factory twin scroll mod properly. People can choose to go about it how ever they like tho lol

Mine's like that, except it's not a hollow sound, more a nice deep raspy sound. I love it over the old un-equal length header noise. That's with twin scroll equal length headers and 3" TBE HKS Silent Hi-Power. What turbo you running? Would be a VF37 but correct me if im wrong lol

Nice...but your still screwd for thoes unles you can find a V8 on twin scroll sump, oil pickup, windage tray, dipstick tube and dipsitck. I just did the conversion and wasnt as strght forward as some made out to be lol. Not just headers, lines, turbo, downpipe and sump.(altho in its own adds up pretty quick and if you can find etc) Then above bits and up pipe bracket too. Not that much extra parts but enough to do your head in especially after trying to find a bloody twin scroll factory sump!

Yeah some kid who lost his licence 1 month after buying it so it's now back in Auckland with me. If you know anything more about the car I'd love to find out bro Haha all good man, Hope you got it for a good price as he let it go for pretty cheep but mind you that was a couple months back when cars were a tad more expensive lol. Markets up and down like a yoyo but on a steady decline all in all . (well for thoes of us who own not buying lol) Um not a hell of alot to say as its pretty stock but was a good car, we did a few hamptons open days together and it ran faultless, Always got left behind taking it easy which is good for your sake he wasnt very hard on the car ;D. Theres a few youtube clips of it around if you havent seen already

where are you from lol? used to know the Richard that ownd the car lol, he sold it to someone in Gisborne I think he said lol

Ilt be a snail but what id do if you cant figure it out there as yep better then bye bye engine.

Did this get purchased? If not put me me in the loop of keen lol

got this car back yet?? 99% sure I saw it yesterday on Lunn Ave Is the "TRIK YA" in red on the plate?

Yep thats what I did in one of my early builds (scat H beam rods). The question is getting a motor with good piston to bore clearence as thats what determins the reliability of them STI sti pistons in hard pushd applications (if tune is right) according to dave. And when theyr out as you know theres NOTHING you can do lol. Ring sets are still $250 so def cheepr then aftermarket forgies but not by a hell of alot when you take that into account (probe, Qite cheep but not bad retail at bout $850 a set so not THAT much difference when pouring money into a build.) Just measure and measure and measure is my only advice

From what ive figured relates to like the year and slight differences in the pistons. Ring gap, skirt shape, can crown shape. If its genuine STI id say almost garenteed HF-2. Ps ive pushed thoes to 250+ wkw in my old hatchback STI. Good tune and are a gr8 piston!! Dont know how people manage to crack/melt them in std cars...Crap AFM's and too much boost = lots of det for fark all power is my only guess lol Yep real life facts = no bull far as im concernd unless the cars been tamper b4 u got it but I know when a engines been out usually and 5 is to much to be random luck or result of swapped engines ect!

forged! well same as other earlier sti forged pistons (the shape changes but you can tell theyr the same material) also all the forged ones have letters and a number on the underside and the cast do not and you can tell they are blatently cast. V8 sti is somting else and dont look like the earlier forged ones and look more like cast ones (only seen one quickly) at PF auto who builds ALOT of subaru rally cars! Inc brand new v10s stripped down when they pop. Know Dave quite well and he confirmed to me that V7 was last of the "forged" piston engines when I was going thru his jiant box of pistons looking for a HF-2 version 4 one for a engine that had a very minor melt down. I was asking whats this to the randm ones id neva seen befor and back then was including a v7 STI one. Have since pulled down several motors that I have pulled myself out of the cars (def Genuine STI sedans) and they have all been of the forged type!

ive opend bout 5 V7 STI motors and they have all had HF-4 forged pistons ;D Btw give me a yell if you wna seel the engine. Then u can sell box above maby

Sounds like its guna be pumping . Murch does nice TD series turbos for subbys! cud do your VF but its not BB ither so Id go with a moded TD05H if you ask me. People might say otherwise but thats my input :