I can be in flat central tauranga and still get loads of crackle. Tossing up between getting a new expander or putting a shark fin / stumpy antenna on the roof
Anyone else on here with an import and shockingly bad radio reception? Not sure if its just due to a crap expander the dealer put in or whether the reception on these cars is pretty weak
So what exactly happens at 10psi? Goes into limp? You stop at that point?
How high in the revs have you got?
Did the single/twin switchover work fine before controller was put in/ with controller turned off?
Has it got a full/ catback aftermarket exhaust. Don't know what the 2nd gens are supposed to go to on primary but my 3rd gen with the catback does raise the boost a couple of psi over stock
Were you in tga or auckland? Talked to you earlier about my one.
And out of interest did you use this wiring manual for setting it up?
http://download.robson-brown.co.uk/uklegacy/zerosport/index.html
Don't know if its just a 2nd gen thing but the 3rd gens definately do not have that Throwing a code issue. Used to log mine quite a bit and never had any stored codes.
Had an annoying vibration at high speeds so took it to bridgestone for an alignment and balance. They also said the front rotors were slightly warped which was giving a pulsating feel when braking. So they skimmed the fronts and things were all fine for a month or so.
Now the pulsating when lightly braking is back again. Can't tell if its the fronts or backs doing it. I think they put on some pretty cheap pads when the car was imported so could this have anything to do with it or is it worth just taking it back to bridgestone to get them to look ober the whole thing again??
Gave the interior a full out clean up. Should have probably done it the say i got it. Was pretty disgusting how much black gunk i managed to get off it
http://perrinperformance.com/i-14908570-air-oil-separator-for-wrx-sti.html
Unless you wanna go for this crazy sucker. Best of both worlds. Returns the oil but not any water vapour.
Horrendously expensive though
Na if you look at the pics for the parts you need they'll all proprietory connectors which makes sense since if it was a aux straight into the back it'd try do something when we press the aux button on the stereo which it doesnt. The aux being out cannot create a block like that so it'd have to be one of those connectors bridges a circuit that livens up the aux option in the unit. Seems the most logical way to do it. Most optional parts in cars are done the same way these days
Awesome. Been spending too much time over on legacygt.com and thought we'd have the same hell they do, guess thats just for the older models
Might have to get that, full stereo setup is a long long way away
Are you sure you aren't revving high and spooling up the secondary and then changing gear down into the single to twin transition zone, like round 3800- 4500 ish, ross will know exactly i'm sure. You can get 5-10sec with no boost if you're doing that.
Doesn't explain the roughness though
Mines the same. Pretty common case.
Can only guess the the headunit was designed as a general unit and certain markets got the aux ahead of others.
Have a look on legacygt.com there's heaps of walkthroughs with what you need to buy to get it working if you want to keep the mcintosh headunit
Are you refering to the speedo only going up to 180? Just the choice they made. A suprising amount of research goes into what they show on the dials for each car but at the end of the day it doesn't mean much. Redlines at 7000rpm so you would hit the rev limiter at around 7200, won't make it all the way to 8k anyway. And if you really went for it, not telling you to, you'd get probably a fair bit further than 180km/h