Yea was thinkn dtech or theres one down next to pf automotive.
Just figured itd be cool to see how its running before and after tune. But then by the time i do that its getting pretty close to the cost of a proper tune i think?..
Its a shame we don't get the tbsti legacy's over here like they do in oz, seriously sick cars. Thinking i might have to copy the wheels they come with and get a pair, or just be a cheapo and get the rota gravel lookalikes.
Yea the one i've just bought.
Good point marky. I'll look into what the warranty lets me do and decide from there. Shouldn't be too hard to do and since its a car i plan on keeping for a very long time having maintenance logs and stuff like that from mechancics doesn't really mean much for me. But if its something the warranty says has to be done through a mechanic then i guess i'll have to go that way
More power = more chance of crashing, in their eyes atleast.
I'm 24 now but when i got the 3rd gen turbo i'd just turned 22 so as long as you haven't had any crashes i don't think they care at all.
Thats why for now i'm going to try get a cryotune e-tune and leave it at that till i get bored again. I'm with state too so i'll be keen to see what they say to you.
Also the caryard gave me an extended mechanical warranty so don't wanna go voiding that too soon so i'll most likely just stick with the tune until that runs out. After that though the subtech one will be the top of the list
That 3 mod thing is pretty cool
How much would you normally expect a kit to cost??
Just got a quote from subaru for:
Cambelt kit
Water pump kit with thermostat and all seals
Oil pump seals - is this really needed?
Cam seals - they said cam seals probably won't need doing so csn return these if not needed
They priced it at 740 + gst. 650 if i return cam seals
Is that the normal price for subaru stuff??
Na spark plugs are easy (even i can do them (; ). Basically just retighten them most of the way with socket and extension piece by hand and then final tighten with the socket wrench. There's no way you could cross thread it with your fingers. And because there's so much junk in the way mechanics will charge you heaps on labour. Have a look through the walkthrough for doing it on here. Think its in the engine section
Yea thought so. Doesn't look too worn but with the colouration it looks pretty old.
Contemplating whether i do it all myself, will be a big learning curve but should save a truckload. Only thing i'm a bit worried about is the crank pulley. From what i've read so far thats where most people go wrong.
Thats the right idea ay. Think those cubbypod ones sit a bit further forward than that. And also note the US ones have a different shaped hinge to ours so any pre made pods have to jdm spec.
Started off thinking i had a faulty thermostat, and then thought hang on a sec, haven't seen markings indicating its had a cambelt done. So thats where i'm at now. Ripped one of the covers off tonight and having never seen a cambelt before i really couldn't tell if it was new or not. Didn't exactly look new but wouldn't know either way. Belts we use at work look worse than that after a few months so not quite sure
So anyone out there with experience wanna give their 2c on whether it should be replaced
Cheers
Here's a dumb question..
Where do you spray iupper engine cleaner nto on these engines?
My old one had the ports coming off the intake manifold that i sprayed it into, the plastic manifold doesn't have those
@syphe
Out of interest, if yours is the newer defi controller, where did you end up putting the interface/little thing with the buttons? Still struggling to find a spot i'm happy with.
Definately have to go black face for me, night time setting matches the dash perfectly
Ive already got a boost gauge on the dash. Like having that in a clear spot. One isn't so bad, anything more than ghat starts to get messy.
Thinking about maybe oil pressure and oil/water temp in the cubby. Has to be 52mm gauges though, not quite as common as 60mm ones. I'll end up going the defi CR series route