Andy_Mac

Na not for you sweed. The T10\'s are facelift be/bh only for park lights. The ones we need are a bayonet type. They are BAY15D if i remember correctly. It helps since there are quite a few different types that look quite similar. Never found any in NZ other than trademe, was looking around on amazon and found a few but never got around to buying them.

3rd gen with similar setup

Choice. Had most of it apart for the head unit install so shouldn\'t be much harder after that. Got that part down packed with the way too many times i\'ve pulled that area apart

Anyone know what kind of bulbs the dash/instrument panel takes in a 3rd gen legacy. Got a blown one and want to have the part there before i pull the whole thing apart.

Sexy as hell wagon

I was under the impression they were 4300k or something like that. 8000k is getting pretty damn blue. Well the ones i were looking at were around that number. That was a pretty standard philips one. Also if you don\'t mind waiting a while try getting them from amazon, some listings do ship to nz and it ends up being around $80 instead of well over $100 locally.

Looked at this, thought about putting it in but decided its definately a job for friday. Wanna have a full day to have a play around with it and see what difference it\'ll make. Cheers Rossub by the way

Old marky had one in his back when he had it. From the looks if what he did it was hard but nothing had to be relocated

From what i\'ve read on sl-i and the likes, the turbo\'s oil banjo filter seems to get very easily blocked and starves the turbo in these models so service history, mainly oil changes done regularily is a key thing to look for. Don\'t wanna be forking out for a replacement turbo 6 months down the track. Getting a thorough checkover from a suby specialist is always the safest bet if its local.

Brothers got a faulty speedo on his toyota corona, not a subaru i know, and trying to sus out what the problem is. Seems to randomly stop every now and again for no reason. Would i be correct in thinking that if when the speedo isn\'t working the odometer would not tick over if its a sensor fault but would still tick over if its a problem with the speedo? Suppose a dodgy connection along the way would give the same problem as a faulty sensor

Suppose you could just split each line. Would probably drop quality as the headunit will still be pushing the same amount thinking its only feeding one amp but getting halved along the way so surely that\'ll compromise something. What about going to the new amp then using the pass through to go back to the macintosh one and then that\'d send the correct voltage/current. But really if you\'re putting in a \'real\' sub is keeping the old one any benefit..

All depends if you can get hold of the info you need really, and whether you have the patience of a monk

Assuming your car has the stock built in \'sub\' and amp. Does it run rca\'s to the amp from the headunit or some weird proprietary setup?

Nice. Always wondered why people complained about the suby ones sounding tinny when i thought they were pretty impressive.

Finally got this fella setup under the passenger seat. Wiring was a nightmare but got there in the end

Are these the standard 3rd gen legacy horns. They look different to some i\'ve seen in pictures

Or the polar bear..... Just sayin, that thing is a disaster

Yea that first pic is the right setup then for dual 2 ohm

So you\'d have to go 1 ohm for that setup to have enough juice.

Na that wiring setup is for dual 2 ohm subs. You won\'t get a 2 ohm load to the amp with those subs

Not a fan of the new side mirrors attached to the door panel rather than tucked into the corner. It seems to be the craze right now but still reckon they look a bit wrong. Other than that it looks alot better than the last

Just got a prime amp for my P2 and its a perfect fit for under the front seat so probably a good one to look into. Also having the remote boost level adjuster is way more beneficial than i would have guessed

Yea rms. it won\'t even be extremely bass heavy stuff i\'m listening to, just want to fill out the sound a little bit better. Will going to a higher wattage one reduce the chance of clipping? My problem is the next step up in the range jumps up to 800w so super overkill and $200 more.

That\'s what i thought. Seemed weird, guess it kinda makes sense if you were maxing the sub out the entire time. Would distortion go up closer to the amps max maybe? Like give it a hiss or something?

Getting a new sub and amp. Looking at a 400w dvc sub wired to run 2 ohm. The amp i had been eyeing up does 500w at 2 ohm. Will this cope alright? Had a guy at an audio shop in tga saying it\'ll run too close to the amps max too often and wear it out prematurely, there any truth in this??