Andy_Mac

I used the wire suspended ceiling guys use for hanging ceiling grids. Think a coat hanger may be a bit too stiff to work all that well. Na didn't really take any pictures of that stuff. Just follow your nose for what trim to remove under the dash. Then with the speakers out you can get your arm up in there and feel where it comes through. Alternatively, you could always just pull the rubber boot out from the door side to make feeding it through easier since it makes it a fair bit straighter. Tried it once. Worked well for feeding it through but was a bit difficult getting it back in correctly as that part of the door has double layered steel.

Didn't fit the stockers, or those ones? Surely they're atleast about a 8.5 with mid 40s offset

I've only ever done subies too. Thats why I lube the hell out of the draw wire then with it about 3/4 of the way through I give it a bit of a bend from the outside of the boot and it slips through like a dream. Type of wire used as the draw wire will completely change how much of a bastard it is to manouvre through

I partially disagree on getting the wires through the door boots being that hard. First one I did on the first car was a pain but once I had a rough idea how to do them it only took about 10mins or so for each one to get the draw wire through.

Awesome man. Did you bring the wheels from your old legacy?, looks alot wider than the stockers. Already got the good looking fog lights, just need some LED park lights to match them all up. You have any more luck finding a front lip yet?

Are the legacy 6mt cases any different to the sti ones? Suppose its almost impossible to find a dccd without the whole box. Since i'm 90% certain my viscous centre is on the way out

Rocker cover fun...

Damn 2500 for a 6mt DCCD box would be mint. Would love to be able to have a play with that. Not really needed but would like it either way

+1 for them. Had some made up for my old legacy. Wasn't spray though. But was a spot on match

Should get into cs labelled coffee mugs in the shop. Would definately be keen on a couple of those

So it lurches only when you give it the beans after, say, 4000rpm? Or does it right down low too?

A subs not a must have. Just need to read a whole load of reviews and see what ones have a better low end. Crutchfield is brilliant for there tech daya, also, staff and customer reviews

Not really lacking but unless you listen to really bassy music it gets overwhelmed a bit. https://www.wavetech.co.nz/Pioneer-TS-D1602R.html Were no where near as crisp but the point was to let the fronts cover that so didn't really matter.

Could be. Really can't remember the model exactly, been about 3 years since i installed them, still have the box floating round somewhere so I might try find that. Yea they sounded awesome but they were kind of lacking in bass, huge step up from what was there originally but they seemed to be more focused on the mid to high range. Are you only planning on replacing the front speakers? Since thats only a two channel amp? Alot of people do just replace the fronts but personnaly I like the rear fill in too. Thats why I went with the pioneer rear coaxials as they had a fair bit more low end so it gave the majority of the mid to high from the front and then had the more bass friendly pioneer ones giving it the low down kick.

Mine are actually the REF6500CS, seems to be bugger all info on these particular ones. They essentially look the same as the CX ones though, so not sure if there is much difference between the two. those tabs needed to be cut off the brackets before the door card could be fitted too. I was running them off an amp but the amp moved to the new car but left the speakers in the old one run off the headunit. Amp was a JBL GTO1004, so 100w RMS at 4ohm per channel. [quote name='Kol12 said: Ok so a 6.5" speaker should fit in the actual hole in the door with the speaker fitting kit?Are the COLOR=#333333] 6500cx any good? I may get those.. How about the door boot is there a trick to getting the wire through it? My electric window button is loose now I put it back in, did you guys have that?[/color] Yea the door hole is definitely big enough, just depends if different models had different adaptors. For the door boot I pulled the door cards off and the trim up under where the wires come back into the cabin. Used a piece if thick, stiff wire, fencing wire thickness, folded the end over and taped it up so it won't catch and tear the boot, also taped a thin draw wire to it. Then pushed it through the boot from the cabin side. used a wire pulling gell so it didn't get caught up on the other wires. could maybe use dishwashing liquid instead? You can sort of navigate it through the boot by bending the boot around a bit from the outside. Once the draw wire's through everythings easy from there. Just be sure to cable tie the wires up up out of the way of the window so it doesn't catch when it lowers, also don't run the speaker wires anywhere near the power wire for the amp. Na it shouldn't be loose at all, you didn't happen to break of the clips underneath at all did ya?

can't remember the exact measurements of my stock spacer but it did fit a full size 6.5inch speaker fairly easily when using the adaptor that came with the speakers as well as the existing ones. mine did originally have the Mcintosh one so starting to think they may have had different brackets thats where I ended up putting my crossovers and the speakers

If you don't want to get a boost gauge then just take it to somewhere like 1randomkiwi listed, but a boost gauge is a good starting point. The flat feeling could be down to it not boosting correctly, could be as simple as a vac hose has popped off.

Yea pretty much ay. They'll prevent excess current faults but there's still a few ways to mess them up without blowing the fuse. Pretty sure an internal voltage fault won't in all instances cause it to blow the fuse. You'll just have a few charred varisters on the board.

Does it have a boost gauge installed?

If you run new, thicker wiring then yes it'll be a true 2 ohm. JBL/Infinity do some wierd stuff with their speakers. Alot of them are designed as 3 ohm which then due to the thin factory wiring is essentially seen as 4 ohm at the amp. Thats their theory atleast, there's no way thats the case for every car. As long as your amp is rated for 2-4 ohm as most are you won't have any problems being in between 2 and 4

Nice. Atleast they're getting the 2.0 turbo Levorg not just the 1.6 turbo

If I was doing it i'd choose option c) go down to supercheap and buy an equally povo spec HU with front, rear, and sub RCA outputs for 70 odd bucks. If not c) then b) would be the next best thing.

Na didn't get them. Went polk audio MM series instead, they're an awesome set of speakers. Worth considering if money isn't really an option. The one step down series is supposed to be rather good too though. Wanted something that would fit using the stock adaptors/mounts. The measurements i'd done didn't look positive for getting them to fit nicely. Confirmed by gorgasmspecb. Yea trademe is pretty suspicious sometimes. Would only ever get stuff like this from them if it was just a quick flick off by a known audio company. No. The purpose of inline fuses is to protect the wiring from drawing too much current and overheating. Its a common misconception that the fuses are there to save components from damage. Same way circuit breakers in your house are there to protect the houses wiring, NOT the components attached. The amp fuse is there to protect the amp from drawing excessive current in the instance of a fault. The difference in wattage rating has zero impact unless you are really cranking it. In which case the amp will be feeding the speakers more power than they want which has potential to overheat them.

Focal ones definately are alot bigger than most others out there though. Still reckon you'll get by without needing them for most ones out there. May just need to give the weather shield a bit of a trim. If you don't intend on having a sub then just go for the smallest amp kit, then use the fuse/fuse holder it comes with. Still cheaper than buying everything individually.

Also can't Gotasuby from on here do tunes down in christchurch?