[Rev D reflash stuffs]

On 10/10/2018 at 5:29 PM, Benjamin said:

Hey Team,

 

I am trying to correlate the files since they have moved to a new location. Can anyone give me a understanding of what file is require for the below tune?

Thanks in advanced.

 

https://ufile.io/90b75 <-- A pretty safe tune for 95% of the cars out there, loading this on will result in the VOD being effectively gone, ping gone on gull or BP 98, and vastly improved mileage. I think it's pretty safe on 95 as well from memory but please see above

Just relate the URL name to the file name mate, 

 

So from the archive uploaded by @thewabbit1 the file you are looking for will be 90b75-b4attemptquattro.bin

[BE struts into BP]

9 hours ago, iludez said:

16 hours ago, sobanoodle said:

Swap tophats over. 

Awesome cheers!

Rears will fit without swapping top hats, but yea fronts will need bp top hats 

[03 BP5 Pops and Bangs Solution - if you don't have overrun tables.]

Tried this on my BE running centre cat, centre muffler and stock axle back. Could get some pops and crackles but mostly it was being soaked up by the cat i believe. was not a fan of the sound either, sounded like someone farting into a pillow lol.. Id say a good flowing exhaust without cats would make it much more exciting.

[Engine Replacement Query BH5 Twin Turbo Manual]

I've never had a 206 in person, but from everything I've read and seen in the past they are the same as the 208 "Strictly speaking Rev-D 206/208" I'm confident it will swap strait in, you might even find the 206 has been thrashed less because its been bolted to an auto all its life.

[03 BP5 Pops and Bangs Solution - if you don't have overrun tables.]

59 minutes ago, Glentwenty said:

Whenever I think of rich on decel I think of that video I'm sure you've all seen of the 2 EVOs in Malaysia chasing up a windy road, everytime the front evo gets off the gas it's just a spew of black smoke and flames. 

 

 

 

[03 BP5 Pops and Bangs Solution - if you don't have overrun tables.]

1 hour ago, Glentwenty said:

Really? That seems odd, i would have thought more fuel more fire haha

nah, you will start to get an incomplete burn/ dirty burn which will have less flame to it than a healthy combustion.. id assume thats when you start fowling plugs etc... more so if its super rich across the board.. running rich in decel wont do much harm i dont think cause it clears back up as soon as you are back on the pedal. 

[03 BP5 Pops and Bangs Solution - if you don't have overrun tables.]

1 hour ago, Pappu1 said:

that is some serious fueling right there - no wonder you called it thirsty

you know it haha, cant say i've ever tried those settings, thats all Marky.. currently i've got mine running more efficiency in the low load/low rpm zone for those calm high milage road trips and have dialled in all the fun in the spool zone.. that being said this thread has intrigued me so i'll be going home and having a play with this haha 

[03 BP5 Pops and Bangs Solution - if you don't have overrun tables.]

For the thirsty Rev-D BE/BH owners 

 

 

Courtesy of @Marky 

 

 

[You know what really grinds my gears?]

Have been in this car, story checks out haha. Very odd. 

 

When was the clutch done, it sounded more flywheel/clutch/spigot/thrust bearing location but super hard to tell. If the thrust and spigot bearing were not replaced with the clutch it could be that? But I think you might be right in assuming its something going bad in the gearbox... It might be cheaper to bin the trans and pickup a lower milage one. 5 Speeds can be had for $300-400 these days and then its just a straight swap, rather than full teardown and diagnosis. 

 

Could flick the old one off as noisy but functioning to get some cash back. 

 

Hope others on here can chime in as i'm mostly lost on this too 

 

 

[Please help ! V3/V4 sti tmic on sf5]

Welcome mate. 

 

I thought the SF5 had the BOV bolted onto the Intercooler. the same as most? Or am i misunderstanding 

 

 

like this one? ... if so then yea a v4/5 intercooler will ft.. but you could also go for he Legacy TT intercooler as it will fit too and flows slightly more... I have a spare one you can have if you are in AKL.. 

[Revision D legacy. Reflash required.]

49 minutes ago, Boxer4turbro said:

Hey I'm keen as beans for that scenario. Better than the stock map it currently has.

I think it massively over compensates from the increased airflow by running rich at the minute, throwing the timing.

How mut munay it cost? Can pay in forms of little brown bottles if preferable.

Thanks.

Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk
 

Are you running an aftermarket intake with a different possibly larger MAF housing? if so that will be fooling it into running lean and largely contribute to pre-det/pinging 

 

I dont expect any payment, i'm no professional and would simply be flashing on a tune that someone else has shared with us all to enjoy. I'd probably dial back the boost a little to depending on how those cat-less downpipes are behaving and if the MAF needs scaling we could look at that but this will be more about creating a safe drivable tune so you can keep the thing alive until getting it pro tuned  @Pappu1 might be available to take a look for you

 

PM me your mobile number and we can have a chat 

[Revision D legacy. Reflash required.]

If its really bad and you need to drive it as its a daily i'm happy to either drop the boost on your current map or flash one on from @Marky until you can get it to a professional 

And naturally hold no responsibility for anything that goes wrong in the future 

[Revision D legacy. Reflash required.]

Id say the ECU would have been reset while the engine was replaced as the battery is basically the first thing that comes out when you are pulling an engine. In fact the ECU reset may even cause more pinging than if it was not reset because its having to relearn what it already knew, the JDM TTs ping really bad so reseting it is just telling it to start off at what it would have been set to in Japan which is 100 octane. After a while its going to start pulling timing until it cant pull any more 

 

Tune is the way to go! I'm unsure on your location, think you are in AKL yea? There are a couple guys on here that will road tune it for you. But best to get a good dyno tune if you want to get it dialed in nicely 

 

Before a tune make sure you run a can of Subaru upper engine cleaner through it and replace all the spark plugs 

[Turbo upgrades for ej208]

Hose 10 mod is not applicable to the Rev-D. The best thing you can do is get a tune 

[Rev D reflash stuffs]

1 hour ago, thewabbit1 said:

I have a ecu def file for my revd - i'll try remember to share the link to it tonight

 

EDIT: here's the link to all the ecu stuff i have. there may well be copies of the above in the 'From CS' folder: https://my.pcloud.com/publink/show?code=kZRd417Zn5iU6SKA1BkWDxfvzHs4Xk7s0jnV

 

'From FB' contains one def file I think

and 'ECU Dump' contains my ECU image, and two def files

 

It's been a while since I looked at them, but give em a go

Cheers mate. 

[Rev D reflash stuffs]

Links no longer pointing to any data  @Kiwi_Fozze @Marky Can either of you rehost these or PM them to me and I will .. I should have snagged a copy when they first went up 

[What have you done to your car today?]

38 minutes ago, McMatty said:

Picked up a rev b long block, v5 wrx ecu, divorced downpipe and a vf24 yesterday
 

Get it boy! Single Turbo that wagon 

[Lowered outback thread]

@blackseb Yea I like the idea of a staggered setup. Honestly I had not even considered that. 

There is heaps of room to be had if you don't mind going to the effort.The rear has never been an issue, roll the rear and bash it a little with a hammer and you are done. The fronts need a little more work.

 

 

To get good clearance at this hight I had to trim the front metal body guards a little. well, i didn't have to but pumping them any more meant the plastic clip-on guard was starting to pop off the metal guard and didn't follow the same clean line. More in my garage thread about that. Kinda a bad picture cause the wheel is turned, but when sitting on flat you couldn't get a finger between the wheel and plastic guard and there is still good travel up in there cause of the cutaway behind

 

 

 

 

I'm sitting back at this hight now, at this hight you can get away with just rolling and pumping the front guards. 

 

[vf22 Shaft Movement]

17 hours ago, GC8E2DD said:

Oh really? I'd have thought axial play was worse than thrust.

I feel like you said the same thing twice 

 

Whenever this topic is discussed it gets confusing. in, out/ back forth - side to side/ up and down - axial / radial?!?! 

 

For the sake of simplicity here we go

 

Simple bearing diagram 

 

Radial movement is fine, we are talking a small amount though.. if the compressor wheel hits the housing we are waggling in the breeze far too much

Axial movement is a no go, whenever talking about bearings there has to be some clearance naturally, otherwise nothing moves but if there is a noticeable amount of Axial play it means bearings/thrust washers are usually toast and oil seals thrashed. 

 

Ps. This is based off the information i've read on the Internet over the years and the copious amount of lames ass VF turbos that have somehow crossed my path. Talk to someone like Steve Murch when it comes to anything important like turbos that dont fall into the naming convention of VF##

[Lowered outback thread]

13 hours ago, ADIKT said:

18x8.75 +19p 225/40/r18 for me

see I just got greedy, 225/40 seems to be the goods. any plans for your wagon mate? I'm getting the feeling alot of the lowered Outback boys are thinking of moving to something new... myself included 

[Lowered outback thread]

5 minutes ago, blackseb said:

Hey guys,

 

After deciding for some time what my next car was going to be, I went out a couple of weeks ago and bought an 08 Outback - with the ultimate intention of getting some wide wheels and lowering it. I think your guys cars look great and I've got a long list of mods in my head for this. Bear with me if the pics don't work, I haven't used the forums since my last Legacy a few years ago.

 

So having just got a new car, what better than to take it down South and throw it at some water gravel and mud?! I have to say the clearance was fantastic for our bach driveway, and it's fast! However with 99% city driving I'd still like to try go down the adjustable suspension route. Hopefully this will be an ongoing project...

 

Nice tidy Wagon! Love that colour. 

 

My 2c - Wheel choice is the biggest thing to get right when going low. With the correct wheel its not too involved when it comes to guard work. I went for 18x8.75 20p + 235/40R18 tyre. If I did it again id go for 25p and a little more stretch on the tyre I think. That being said I do love the aggressive fitment I have. Just a lot of work went into getting it right. 

I also just lifted mine by 15mm because i go out of the city quite a lot and scrapping the road and bottoming out was getting a little old. in and around the City its awesome. 

[vf22 Shaft Movement]

A small amount of side to side is ok, back and forth not so much 

[2.5 crank into V7 207 block]

I briefly looked at doing this recently. Longer rods reduce piston side loading, and piston weight. I think generally speaking keeping the longer rod and getting some pistons made to suit is the advised route. 

[Rev d manual conversion]

I’ll jist leave this here: https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2001-legacy-4eat-5mt-manual-swap-write-up-186828.html?s=148999beb1d68a6f103033cd81abc10e&amp;amp;

 

and tag @whitebait19 as he converted his EZ30 to manual 

[Lowered outback thread]

My HANKOOK Ventus S1 evo2's <--- "thats a name". Seem to be holding up ok.. Biggest thing is wheel alignments aye, made that mistake before and ended up dragging one around with too much toe on it for a while. that did more damage that running heaps of camber