[GRB Engine Rebuild]

3 minutes ago, wrcfan21 said:

Thanks for the info. I’ve been quoted $550+gst for the 1 cam from subaru. And it had to be ordered from Japan! At least 2 weeks wait


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shesh, that hurts! Suddenly, getting four cams at only twice the price doesn't look to bad compared to $500+gst for one! haha

[GRB Engine Rebuild]

2 hours ago, wrcfan21 said:

Are you willing to sell just the left side intake cam on its own?


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to be honest, your best bet is asking Subaru Directly. The chances of finding someone who'd be willing to split up a full set of Cams that are good isn't super high. Try wreckers or engine rebuilders, hell even Kelford. They may have something around that'll suit your purposes, be it second hand, or new whatever.

[GRB Engine Rebuild]

11 minutes ago, wrcfan21 said:

Just an update. A new shortblock has been ordered and the heads have been sent away for service. They have found one of the intake cams to have weird wear on one of the lobes and recommends the cam to be replaced.

 

Anyone know where to find a new or used Left hand intake cam?

 

They also found the exhaust valves to be leaking and one of the lifter buckets has scoring marks on it. They think the bucket has been stuck and not able to move freely.

 

Maybe a good option for you would be to go to a kelford cam? Nothing extreme or anything but since you've gotta replace the cams?

[What have you done to your car today?]

Just now, YoungOne said:

 

If one wanted to add a roof vent to a non RA car do you know if there is anywhere to get them aside from a wreaker car?

Sure do. You can get full roof vent kits off Japan Parts

OEM kits. 

 

https://www.japanparts.com/

[What have you done to your car today?]

So, done another batch of Type RA roof Latches.

They’ve come out absolutely phenomenal, and am really happy with them.
Added the spring that the factory one retains as well, so you can run the latch looser without it flopping around haha






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[GRB Engine Rebuild]

6 minutes ago, Omsin said:

"Shouldn't" - correct, "Have" - evidence suggests (debatable - Subaru motor is quite sensitive)

 

Was a class action lawsuit in America regarding piston rings, slightly different to bearings but the conclusion was more or less "poor / inadequate design"

 

That was for the EJ257 but even the EJ207 early on in the GR/GV live cycle was prone to spinning a bearing.

[GRB Engine Rebuild]

mhm, maybe give WRC Developments a call? I don't know much about them, but they're in Napier? 

 

Sending an engine Away is also a good choice to be fair. Taylor Automotive in auckland, @SAS  Their facebook here in christchurch, SpeedHub MotorSport in Auckland, of course theres also @PBMS as they're coming back into the scene strong recently. 

[What have you done to your car today?]

Mca "street performance" Coilovers installed, with custom spring rates and their "stealth" option colouring.
 
brembos on, had to drill and helicoil one of the front caliper bolts as it was stripped.
 
Bendix heat treated vented slotted front rotors with z series pads, Bendix slotted vented rears, again with z series pads. Also stuck in some endless handbrake shoes, should make a nice difference.
 
Bled it all out, both sides of the calipers, pedal is still a bit squidgy in the first little bit of travel. Need to re bleed it, but gotta get more fluid first. 
 
Looking forward to getting this beast tuned. Been driving it around for a while on wastegate pressure and break in tune, and it absolutely hauls arse. 

You have dixcel pads and rotors yah muppet lol not bendix


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[The "Hose 10" Mod - BE/BH]

2 minutes ago, BE5DRSKJAPAN said:

I see! Though so but wanted to try anyway!  Might the hose #1 mod will have same reaction? 

 

haha well it's always good to try things out

 

Should post up some photos of your car on the forums! I'm sure some people on here would be interested to see more JDM goodness.

 

 

[The "Hose 10" Mod - BE/BH]

2 minutes ago, BE5DRSKJAPAN said:

Hi!

 

i did the Hose 10

mod in a BE5 D 2001/12 with re-written ECU BOV Center pipe and Back pipe changed, i was running almos same as without the mod with the difference of when hitting 4.000+ rpm the engine started to knock, so I reverted it again. But no idea why it was knocking too much boost? Vacuum leak?

 

i live in Japan and petrol is V-Power so I would say it was caused by low quality petrol, and after reverted works totally fine solid boost all range and knocking is gone! 

 

Shall i try the Hose #1 mod? 

 

Cheers from Japan! 

 

Instagram: @subarulegacyrsk

 

Hiya! 

 

The Hose 10 mod only works on earlier gen legacys. The reason being, is because the hose 10 mod, actually brings the cars in line with how the revision D is setup  

 

Cheers,

Dairusire

[Airbag Steering wheel Removal]

 
True, and your brakes might not work either... better rip them out too. Your life buddy

Not really the same there. There are maintenance tasks and procedures you can do on brake systems. To the best of my knowledge, there isn’t anything available for airbags...


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[Airbag Steering wheel Removal]

You could alternatively go look for a damd steering wheel, which replaces the wheel bit but retains the original airbag? Or go get the wheel redone?

[What have you done to your car today?]

You got conned in the ol switch and bait tactic of bloody rental cars. They call it an upgrade but reality is it’s not and they likely charge less for that vehicle. Had it happen to me twice. Second time I wasn’t as forgiving and then I actually did get a free upgrade.


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[Subaru Clutch]

I just saw something about masters and slaves, can you explain it again plz?


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No kink shame here mate


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[Subaru Clutch]

9 hours ago, Individualities said:

 

I know. Reason I said that is for length of life for the clutch.

The thing is though, they're very much 'same same'. The difference is, one has a heavy as all heck pressure plate, and one doesn't and they may have different friction materials but I doubt they've got more. If anything you may find more wear from the heavy duty.

 

Also, with heavy clutches like the aforementioned also introduce other wear on the vehicle a lot of people don't realise. For example more load and wear on the thrust bearings, potentially causing early failure. Flex in the firewall (metal fatigue), because you're fighting to push down a clutch. Also obviously more pressure on the clutch master and slave cylinders, obvious reasons 😛 

Theres more to consider as you'll probably realise now than just what sort of power the clutch can hold. Well intended I have no doubt but a learning point no less. Someone on here schooled me about it a long time ago lol.

[Subaru Clutch]

25 minutes ago, Individualities said:

Exedy Heavy Duty

 

Mate, it's a non-turbo forester. A heavy Duty clutch here is way over the top haha

 

Just go get a standard clutch from Subaru or exedy. Which ever is cheaper.

[What have you done to your car today?]

Aaaaand the RA has now been tuned properly for e85. And only E85 haha

 

Giving the vf36 a leaning on and pushing 1.5Bar of boost through the poor old EJ205, and she loves it! Good lord this thing goes far better than it did before.

 

Bit of a kick in the guts considering the last engine cost me about 7k + some after it nuked and this ol 205 was nothing but $500 including a new water pump and cam belt kit!! None the less I’m bloody happy

 

 

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[What have you done to your car today?]

I got the report back from Link about my ECU.....

 

 

Quote

REPORTED FAULT:

Battery voltages reporting incorrectly, fuel pump stuck on regardless of aux 1 configuration.

FAULT CONFIRMED:

Yes

OUTCOME:
Tested ECU on engine simulator, found ECU not powering up, no current draw. Disassembled ECU and found blown track on 14V input. Reworked track. ECU now powers up. Ran ECU through automated test jig, all hardware testing OK. Tested ECU on engine simulator, all functions operating correctly. The cause of failure is reverse voltage. When the ECU sees reverse voltage (backwards battery or jump pack) the main TVS diode conducts this to ground with the intent of blowing the ECU power fuse. If for whatever reason the fuse doesn’t blow, be it too large or not fused at all. This section of track blows. If the ECU is still powering up after this. This is due to a back feed from hot fed devices on the auxiliary drives back-feeding through the auxiliary fly-back diodes onto the 14V rail. For this particular ECU, a 10A fuse is ample for the ECU supply

 

 

So I did some digging.... It was the fuel pump keeping the ECU Online.... un-freaking-believable.... 

Makes a hell of a lot of sense why the thing was seriously troubled and wouldn't behave under any normal circumstances. 

This ladies and gentlemen is why you should be careful jump starting your car, because I tracked it back to the one event where the jump cables touched for a split second and that's all it took to kill my ECU.

 

EDIT: Also, as an addition, the ECU shouldn't be drawing more than 1-2 amps according to Matt. So even a 5A fuse would be more than suitable. As such I've gone to a 5A.

 

[BE5 Blitzen Dead Engine.]

19 hours ago, Ultraforce said:

If there is a thread to identify the models I would be happy to report.

 

How'd you get on with Andy's advice?

[What have you done to your car today?]

/me sighs. 

The RA's ECU has been sent back to link.

One issue after another, but hopefully we're finally reaching the end of my problems with this car lol. 

The aforementioned changes to my wiring did approximately diddly squat and apparently didn't fix my problem of low voltages to the ECU. None the less, a better wiring run is now in place for multiple things, so there should be zero issues with powering it, and serviceability is better. 

 

So after checking that my 12V supply to ECU was good to Chassis ground, I checked against the four grounds my ECU has on plugs A and B of the Storm ECU. Testing to each one, all the same 12.8v to those grounds, and that's including the one ground which was dodgy looking (reterminated after I found it anyway) which still had no issues. 

last test was to pop the plugs back on ECU and grab a couple paper clips and poke one into the positive and test out the grounds individually while the ECU was running. ECU showed 9.34V mean while positive to every ground showed, once again 12.8V supply. 

Thats a GG in my books and the ECU is coozed. 

 

Oh also, the fuel pump stays on permanently.... Doesn't prime as it should, won't turn off if you turn off the AUX Output it's on. As soon as you pull that pin on the ECU header, the pump won't turn on. So that's a problem too.

Heres to hoping it's lifetime warranty covers it and I don't have to sh!t a brick paying for an ECU to be fixed.

[BE5 Blitzen Dead Engine.]

Hiya Ultraforce. 

 

Do you know if the blitzen is a revision C or revision D legacy?

One is much simpler than the other haha. 

 

Regardless, if you would like the engine replaced but don't have the skills to do some yourself, theres shops that can do this for you. MattChanics or @PBMS (Possum Bourne Motorsports) and a few others that come to mind. 

 

If you'd like to give the single turbo conversion a go, there are threads here in the legacy section detailing everything needed and what to do.

[What have you done to your car today?]

But then we checked voltage to the pin and it was allgeezy. so it's basically just because it's a link.

Link or a straight up grounding issue. It’s frustrating as hell.


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[What have you done to your car today?]

2 minutes ago, pl0x said:

Looks mint! but 12v to pressure sensors?

I'd also think about an additional relay for injectors and coil, then you know the injectors are at the same voltage as the ecu is seeing

 

Yep, the honeywell 150psi sensors require a 12v feed. 

I've tested the ignition coils and that's seeing things properly. 

It's just ECU voltage line that's the issue at this stage, but I'm taking the initiative to do the other things too, since I'm already there lol

[What have you done to your car today?]

So after quite a while trying to find where my over fueling issue at idle is, and potentially my issue also with my fuel pump staying on all the freaking time, its come down to something rather... Simple, yet so annoyingly hard to find. 

 

The wiring in my RA is stopping my ECU from seeing full voltages. it's getting 9.4-9.8v MAX. and it's still running which is amazing to be honest. 

 

Now, you may ask, why would this cause an over fueling issue?

Brilliant question! 

ECU's control the injector dead time, with voltages.

The lower the voltages, the greater the dead time. the higher the voltage and the faster dead time. As seen below and explained brilliantly by link. 

So as you can expect, the lower the voltage the ECU sees, is the absolute highest it could be expected to output.

 

 

Soooooo How am I going to solve this? Well eliminate the wiring harness entirely for 12v delivery to the ECU, but not only for that for for the fuel pump, Can Lambda wideband, Fuel pressure sensor, Flex Fuel sensor, and oil pressure sensor.

 

Due to the above, this is how I came to doing this. 

 

 

 

[What have you done to your car today?]

17 minutes ago, boon said:

 

I'm going to wildly speculate and ask if this is yet another case of a pseudo-"performance" workshop being a bit s***?

 

more than a bit s***. imho