knockoutgiant

So, no-one other than Dtech then? 5 hours is probably a little far for a tune. A lot of people love to tune stock ECUs. But I agree, you'd have to know what the hell you were doing aha

Not really sure where to put this question but it might aswell go here aha. Almost finished my engine build. Question is, who's the "Tuner of choice" (Lower North Island) on here? I've had very good reviews from STM by family however that was where Andre was running the show, now that Phil's taken over I've heard a few "Not so good" things. Curious who you guys would get to tune your build?

Am I the only one here that hasn't noticed a difference between eco on and eco off? I've felt no different in power, response or fuel economy.... Have driven a gen 5 and you can tell there's a whole lot of difference using the "SI drive" but I haven't seemed to feel anything with the eco button....

This is also pretty much what I'm trying to achieve with my build at the moment. EJ257 stock block, rods and crank (Would love to go CDB but don't really need to for the numbers I'm looking at) CP forged pistons. Somewhere around 8.7:1/9.0:1 compression ratio with Dual AVCS EJ20 heads and a GTX3076R twin scroll (Hopefully but can't seem to find one that's released yet?!) I'm hoping to get mine done by the end of the month. Aren't the EJ20Y/X's 9.5:1 compression factory anyway?

I'm staying top mount. Staying top mount and stock location turbo is because I want to keep it as stock looking as possible. Agreed the stock top mount would crumble at that amount of power so I have gone with a Process west top mount.

As said, I'm definitely sticking with stock location. I already have the Tomei TS headers so it HAS to be something that will bolt to them. For the flex fuel, as I said, I'm sure it's very good and I know there are awesome gains from it, but again I just simply don't trust it. I'm starting to lean more towards the Blouch 3.0XT-R...

Yes, of course I'll be thrashing it and don't just want this stuff to say I have it. I didn't blow my EJ20 up being nice to it Oh really?! I'll check into that a bit more just to be sure! Not totally keen on a built/hybrid turbo as there are no definite results, flow rates, boost response figures etc etc. I also just don't trust them, it's a bit like flex fuel for me, I'm sure it's very good.... But I simply don't trust it.

Alright so, I'm looking at turbo options/opinions for my build. Brand new EJ257 bottom end, CP forged pistons, Tomei headgasket, ARP headstuds, 2.0 dual AVCS Legacy heads. Compression should be somewhere around 8.7:1, Tomei expreme equal length twin scroll headers. This is a daily so my main concern is spool/driviability/reliability. Wanting no less than 250kw atw. Not really keen on getting a hybrid turbo or getting one built. Stock location only. Way I see it I have a couple of options: Blouch Dominator 1.5XT-R Twin scroll http://www.rallysportdirect.com/shop/product/blc-dom1-5xtr-ts-blouch-dominator-1-5xt-r-10cm-2-twin-scroll-jdm-turbo-subaru-models-inc-2002-2007-wrx-2004-2015-sti Blouch Dominator 3.0XT-R Twin scroll http://www.rallysportdirect.com/shop/product/blc-dom3-0xtr-ts-blouch-dominator-3-0xt-r-10cm-2-twin-scroll-jdm-turbo-subaru-models-inc-2002-2007-wrx-2004-2015-sti Tomei M7760 Twin scroll (Have only heard bad things about these turbos?) http://tomeiusa.com/_2003web-catalogue/000_arms/product_arms_m7760TS-e.html Or last but not least I could wait as ATP are testing out a stock location GTX3076R or something along those lines... Basically just wondering what would be best suited to my needs etc... Getting a headache from all the different options

Damn man looking very nice!

27ish. I'll let the tuner sort all of that out. You mean chuck a switch inline so I can switch off the solenoid and run wastegate pressure only?

This sounds like the go Was hoping to utilize the "Eco" button for a really economic tune, lowest boost setting possible, lowest power output possible and then turning "Eco" off would be a full 27ish psi tune That would be ideal for me. You can get a couple of different maps on the red D style with the SI drive correct?

Another question.... I'm doubting it but wondering if the 03 BL Legacy ECU can have two different maps?

Flat-nats 2016? The Legacy's still recovering from 2015 :'(

Audio clips of course! A lot of nice exhaust work in this thread! Stock headers/downpipe with The Kakimoto cat-back Stock headers/downpipe/mid-pipe just STI Genome axle backs Stock headers, Subtech downpipe, stock mid-pipe, STI Genome axle backs.

Thinking brand new EJ257 with forged pistons. All the rest should be up to the powerlevel I'm after.

So basically I just want to make sure before I purchase anything. I'll be getting a EJ257 shortblock and fitting my BL5 EJ20Y heads to it. Just wondering/making sure that I will be able to tune the stock BL5 2.0L ECU to account for the 2.5L EJ257 Shortblock? Greatful for any help!

Righty so I've got a few questions on my yet to be built engine. 1) Has anyone got any ideas on power levels the EJ257 stock rods can take? Am aiming for 250kw but it will most likely be over that. I've heard the stock pistons are iffy so will be changing them for forged ones and don't really want to split the block! 2) Innovate Subaru in Auckland. Has anyone dealt with them/know what kind of quality work they produce? Looking at a 2nd hand EJ257 short block that's been rebuilt by them. 3) Will be machining my Dual AVCS EJ20Y heads to match the EJ257 block. What do I need to look out for in terms of clearence/compression ratios/head gaskets etc etc to ensure this build goes smoothly? This is my first go really on trying to do anything actual engine wise and I'd like it to go well aha, so, ANY information that could be of any use to me please say as I can't really afford for this to go wrong aha. Any and all help is muchly appreciated!

Right, 03 BL5 2L twinscroll turbo 5speed Good thread for me as I've had a few different exhaust combinations. Stock, quite obviously is a Prius. Kakimoto N1 spec (I think) catback, power felt good and sounded amazing however it was very droney at 100km and just far too loud in general. Kakimoto N1 spec mid-pipe with stock mufflers, very slightly louder, no performance gains at all. Kakimoto N1 spec mufflers with stock mid-pipe, again, sounded good but ridiculously loud (done a test and is actually louder with the kakimoto mufflers then with no mufflers at all) STI BP5 Genomes with stock mid-pipe, exactly as SpecB/Killervq has said, quite around town, loud when you open them up. Sounds okay but slightly raspy for my liking. STI BP5 Genomes with Stock mid-pipe but Subtech downpipe. Basically the same, however slightly louder at idle and round town but ridiculous at WOT (Still not droney so okay for me!)

Haven't posted here in a while! Favourite pic of me and the Legacy :3 And then me and my mates BE

I have 5 people in the car quite regularly and still no scraping. Nothing really beyond that though. As for the stock GT brakes, firs time I went out on the track I did manage to get some brake fade and that made me think they weren't up to my kind of standard (hence the Brembo's). In saying that, they definitely weren't bad and they never got to the point where they failed me, I just decided Brembo's for piece of mind. Although this is coming from someone who is VERY harsh on his brakes at the track... even managed to get the Brembo's smoking The ride with the Prova's is definitely firm. I find them to be good springs though, not much body roll either (can't compare to stock because this is all I've ever had aha).

As for brakes, I recommend the Brembo set all around! A bit of a pain because the rear calipers need adapters and you need custom rear rotors with a 170mm handbrake drum instead of the 190mm STI handbrake drum. I'm sitting on stock bilsteins and Prova springs with 18x8.5 + 46 with no rubbing what-so-ever. I find it a nice good setup!

I'm going to go with if taking too long to heat up, it did seem to take a little while on the bench. I'll get another one on the way so I know. It's really starting to annoy me now aha.

Okay so, I removed the sensor, applied 12V to the black wires. It got hot, working properly? Also got a rag with meths on it, smothered the end to get a reading and I got 0.8V. Surely that's enough? Which leads me to the question why am I getting the check engine light?!

Actually that's the wrong part number, part I'm after is a 22641-AA220 which they're showing no stock of. I'm unsure to be honest. I assume he's meaning unplugged