kamineko

well thats cool. those two units are only 8 serial numbers apart. also check the firmware sticker. they are the same number. i\'m going to suggest they are both running the same tune, one with the external eprom, and yours burnt into the processor memory. also note the ecu with the firmware chip already had a sticker under the SA sticker. so i assume its a recycled new unit from JECS maybe that was the cross-over point at the JECS factory? seems that on a limited production run for this model the JECS factory just worked with what they had

not that useful to this convo but pretty sure the V2/3 STI also got the r160 mech, at a 4.something ratio

place your bets!

i\'m going to suggest the top is viscous limited slip. the 2nd looks mechanical clutch type

so these guys are hoping you mean brake cleaner, and that you never clean anything apart from internal brake system parts with brake fluid. even brake cleaner is not recommended for cleaning afm elements, you need MAF cleaner, which i think is alcohol based. aaand most of the time it won\'t help a stuffed AFM anyway. anyway. looking back through your posts, it seems there are some modifications to your car. what was the last working setup, and what has recently changed? so what CEL codes are you getting?

there is some confusion around the early impreza models my understanding is the the Impreza Model A WRX RA was required for rally homogulation and is sometimes referred to as an STI. then the actual STI version became available. with these early models, the base WRX was transferred to the STI shop to be modified. this ceased during the 2nd phase of Model C production where all Impreza shared the same production line. this is the actual \'version 2\' so, TL;DR you would expect the early STI and RA ecu\'s ( SA SB SC ) to be chipped from factory. some pics i found online. the eprom chip has been soldered onto the board, with a sticker. the program in the chip replaces the original program on the board. ignore the red square. how do these pics compare with your ecu? also, you\'ll probably find that the SA ecu is plug and play with your v2 car. green afm and grey injectors are required.

the catch is the same, I think you require facelift headlights and grill to match the bonnet

heres one i prepared earlier. it all shares the same gearbox lube. they can start to grind away a bit, my original one was never the same after a dyno run.

with so many copies of the info, you\'re got a lot of work to do for any amendment anyway i havn\'t missed a cs megameet since \'09 so i\'m looking at the idea of flying to welly and hitching from there. unless someone is driving up from dunners?

looks good but incomplete info, its missing the shim under. also we\'re talking about EJ20K

this because a noisy BOV isn\'t always an \'upgrade\' was the factory one broken?

sorry, i PM\'d you details to send to me for repair, but i thought it was from a Suby. I have no spare parts for mitsi ecu\'s. good luck

i disagree. the bulb is a good indication but won\'t tell you what voltage you are dropping before the bulb i.e. 6V might still light the bulb, but thats not really fine. if OP doesn\'t have the tools then best to find someone that does, and have it diagnosed properly to save more mucking around

residual fuel pressure (to allow engine running) will last all of about 2 seconds on a suby. a dodgy relay/connection at the fuel pump plug could cause the pump to run poorly then give up. its hard to diag over the net. you need to check the electrical system to the pump, the pump, and after pump removal the tank for contamination. just use a torch. it should be pretty clean. usually is the pump at fault but i suggest electrical issue due to recent pump replacement. but hey, you won\'t know what pump they put in until you remove it. when you do, post up the numbers on it. what did the receipt say? some testing help since i have a moment to type the under seat pump/gauge plug can burn out - when you inspect it the larger wires will be the 12V to the pump. you should be able to test the same voltage through both sides of the plug. remember it will only be live for a moment to prime with key on IGN so you\'ll need a helper to twist the key on and off while you test then check for the same voltage at the tank end of the plug then check for a resistance reading over the pump itself. it should be something other than nothing lol remove the lid on the right side about the fuel tank. CLEAN the dirt away. use a vacuum cleaner if you can. remove the pipes, then the pump assy should come out some some wiggling. while the pumps it out of the tank you can connect it directly to 12V and see how it operates. sometimes they still whir a bit with no fuel pressure but if it sounds constant then have a good look at the wires going directly to that no luck? time for a new pump. appendix I i run a walbro 255 in my track impreza. the factory underseat connection and wiring got HOT. its a common suggestion to chuck in an aftermarket pump, but that extra capacity has to come from somewhere and the factory wiring (at least on the early GC) simply isn\'t enough to carry the extra current. i imagine more problems have come about from an uprated pump on factory wiring than most expect. appendix II if a walbro is cheaper and you\'re going to get it anyway, (i wouldn\'t mock you even considering apendix I) then carefully transfer the original pickup sock to the new pump as its longer. oh i have a post on this somewhere errr http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php/topic,25974.msg362219.html#msg362219 wow that old

probably the driver pack for the idle control. yeah they do occasionally fail for no good reason whats the number on the chip? i can potentially have a go at repair if you don\'t mind postage to-from dunedin otherwise look for the same ecu at a wreckers or tardme

what a mission. I might be free on sunday to have a look at the loom for you. dodgy earthing is a hell of a thing nick

pump or power to the pump at fault?

bad speed sensor can cause terrible running. speedcut is irrelevant, it still wants the signal. and as you might expect, sort the knock sensor too

sorry i should have been more specific, automotive environments are not nice places, electronically speaking. there is a lot of electrical noise that microcontrollers don\'t like

cool is the power supply for the pi robust enough for an automotive application?

the earthing is different between the ecu versions. bare this in mind when planning your conversion. there is info floating around but it pays to carefully work it out yourself before hand

sounds like fun but was it working fine before hand? or have you just slapped this together and its not going?

yuck. spend a little extra time and make an adaptor. that way when you\'re ready to upgrade the old possumlink you don\'t have a mess

ok, care of wiki here is an exaggerated example of what you are looking for (tiny fractures in the solder) http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Gebrochene_loetstellen.jpg here is generally where you should look, as fractures are normally only caused by thermal expansion or physical stress http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~chrisarg/ClubSub/kamineko/temp/2mplrlx.jpg have a good look over the other joints too. to repair, use a soldering iron and heat some new solder into the joint. not heaps, but make sure its nice a shiny looking when you\'re finished. the flux inside the new solder will clean the joint. make sure your soldering iron is clean all the time. once hot, melt solder onto the tip then wipe it onto a wet sponge. it should be clean and shiny. for solder use something like this http://jaycar.co.nz/productView.asp?ID=NS3008&form=CAT2&SUBCATID=953#1 if you have more tools, (solder sucker or braid) remove the old solder first

i\'d measure all of them before placing an order