Skatieguy

I had a similar sounding issue with mine, cracked hub, bearing was still fine and vtnz didn\'t pick it up on their wof check. Surely the mechanic would\'ve picked that up though?

Is there a difference between the factory BD5 RS and RS-B Legacy applied model codes? My google-fu has failed me on this one. I see some slight differences in appearance in photos but don\'t want to go looking at them in person blindly.

Sold it, time for a cheaper (outright) Subie I think.

I don\'t actually live in town and don\'t go there often, still may have seen it.

Yes, someone\'s coming to look at it tomorrow though, may buy another one very soon, maybe a legacy..

Gave it a wash. Still looks dirty so will have to give it a quick blast with the high pressure hose again tomorrow. 8)

Will have to see where my holidays fall and whether I own a Subaru or not at the time. Could just change a weekend off with the boss though.

Jesus.. Not sure what\'s worse, those tail lights or the wheels!

Damn so it\'s a v2... and plain WRX body thanks man, at least I know where I can find a low ks motor and box if i ever find a stupidly cheap rolling STi body.

VIN# 7A8GF090702041150 Chassis# GC8-041150

How do you find that out, kamineko? There\'s a car I\'m thinking about getting, looks like a v3 with v5 STi running gear but want to be 100% sure.. Factory left strut tower plate removed.. (not listed as stolen) but VIN is still there so was able to carjam it.

Just had a quick look online and didn\'t really find much, should the 2000 V7 ej207 have the coil packs numbered FK0140 or FK0186? If they were the wrong ones could this cause them to overheat randomly? Didn\'t really find anything wrong when I had a look around, might have to finally shell out for someone to do it right..

Thanks rosssub I will have a look see what I can find.

I\'ve gone back to the drawing board now, I know coil packs are either dying within 200km or at least end up not working properly but I don\'t know why, would some sort of electrical fault cause this? seems to be only on the drivers side so far, possibly just one of the 2 cylinders.

Also this: http://imgur.com/ no sign up required, upload here or another image hosting site first.

Not sure if repost..

Almost looks like an mx-5..

Oh deary me. http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/honda/auction-709322393.htm

All its missing is a fake frount mount ;D

I had something similar to this happening in my v7 STi, turned out it was a faulty coil pack, sounds exactly like you\'re describing. Also depended on hard you were pressing the throttle as well on my one, seemed to stop completely after about 5500 rpm, and started around 3200 rpm.

See how we go, right now I\'m just happy to have it finally running how it should\'ve been since the rebuild. (pretty much right when I bought it.) I feel like I owe you guys a beer after all these dumb questions

I am also still keen, hopefully everything is all sorted now. On a dairy farm as well so can\'t make it at certain times/days.

Opened the main loom plug today and did not see any oil in there, so hopefully all good. Seems that one of the new coils are also faulty, swapped some around (again) to get rid of more misfire issues (same as what it\'s had for 2 years), not the new bad, CEL one. So just a matter of time before I know if it\'s good or not now.

Swapped over the 2 passenger side coils, found a bit of oil on the front left.. connector? missfire/cel issues gone, so will swap them back over again tomorrow. Will know in a few days whether the cars actually using oil or not. Also this huge cable tie, does that need to be replaced after checking the plug?

I basically only swapped the coil packs, no cleaning or anything, should I try cleaning the connections on the coil packs first? What should i clean them with if so. I also have my 3 old coil packs that worked fine and the 1 stuffed one I could try fix the situation with.