SpeedySub

I saw something on the MRT youtube videos, where they talk about the intercooler. ApparentlyThere's a cover that's stuck on the front to reduce the amount of cooling it receives. It was put on due to cars in warm moist climates condensing water in the intercooler. But you should be able to remove it to increase cooling.

And the 2.5 Duratec V6 - They had a really bad design on the back bank where there was bugger all gasket and these engines were well know to blow head gaskets externally. Mine had started to go when the gear box died, it would make a ticking sound as it leaked compression. Also Ive seen a few videos on cracking blocks on the ecotec engines as well

Yip zero excess for glass replacement. Yeah my excess is $400. Love State Insurance, they make it so easy to deal with. I called up to query my excess and told her what happened and she said not to worry and she would sort it out with Smith and Smith.

Just found out that the replacement is covered under my Windscreen insurance Wasn't sure if it would be and couldn't remember what my excess was so I got a quote from Smith and Smith first. $332 + GST was quite reasonable I though, I was expecting about $600+

No. Nothing. Nada That's the only logical explanation I could come up with as well as I was driving home with the wind whipping through my golden locks. Now to find out how much it costs before putting a claim in. At least I can borrow the wife's car till it's fixed. And luckily it's not a Honda splash or suzuki funcar

Any one had this happen before?

For me personally Ive never liked those bonnet scoops on Legacys. Not sure why, but I like the more understated original scoop.

EJ engine vs FA engine? Maybe with the new engine design they have minimised or eliminated the issue?

Needs more lower now

They look good, but I would need to do a whole exhaust system though, which would be good isn't in the budget at the mo. Looks like heat wrap and a bit of swearing.

Yeah, I was just looking up after market extractors But out of my budget at the moment. I was thinking of using heat wrap, as Im a bit worried about the heat from the cats. Heat wrap seems cheap enough. Long time no hear @Percy

So on my Outback 2.5 n/a the heat shields on my exhaust manifolds have come loose and are rattling. This happened when I first got it and looks like they fixed it by tack welding the loose part to the pipe, but other tacks have no started to break off. Can I remove the shields without any issues with heat around the engine and undertray? I would just remove them but don't want to end up causing issues. Whats the best way to deal with it?

Have a look at these https://www.redlineperformance.co.nz/product/hks-sld-speed-limit-eraser/ Should do the trick till you get a ecu upgrade.

Will do

So had a good look under the outback yesterday and found that the sway bar links were stuffed (knew that already) and the front arm ball joints need replacing too (as well as the inner passenger side CV boot). So looking to replace these items. was just going to go to the Mount shop for the parts or somewhere local. Where do you guys go for these parts? Online or local?

Thats what she said!

I only got 5460 replies

Hmmmm Ferrari or Peugeot?

As @Loren said an autox would be better for learning how to control slides etc I found the track day at Ruapuna really good for learning about the car especially at higher speeds. Also if you do lose contol it's a nice safe place to do it. I spun the legacy at the track, definitely learned how much was too much spend into a corner.

You won't get the exact same sound. Best bet is to just try and make t sound good. Youtube some clips of N/A Subaru exhaust set ups. They don't sound like a turbo but there are some nice sounding N/A's on there.

Nothing worse than looking for info and finding none, or its just the USDM info, or completely wrong! Good luck with your search

Only thing I could find was on Wiki The SOHC EJ Subaru boxer engines were non-interference engines through 1995, run by a single timing belt driving both cams (both sides of the engine) and the water pump. Because they are non-interference engines, if the timing belt fails, the engine of the models up to 1995 will not be damaged. The oil pump is driven directly from the crank shaft and the waterpump by the timing belt. All DOHC and 1998-up SOHC EJ engines are interference engines, if the timing belt fails the valves will likely be damaged. So it looks like it will be an interference model

Ok so Ive been having a think about this, and looking at the AWD system used in Subaru compared to say an Audi system. The Subaru system has direct connection to the gearbox/engine, similar to a FWD car, Where the Audis have another driveshaft/diff. So in essence the torque form the Subaru system will have a twisting/rotation of the engine same as a FWD, so the pitch stop seems to help with keeping the engine and gearbox from becoming out of line with the rear drive shaft. You could run without it but I would think that the engine and gearbox mounts will fail faster. Thats my 2 cents worth

Ah I see now. Thanks for the explanation

Are you saying you can use the V3/4 sti ecu in a V3/4 Wrx, but not the V4/5 Sti ecu in a V4/5 wrx. Would you need to get the STI crank/cam triggers to get it working correctly